dasbulliwagen

While I was in there, I might add a high volume melling oil pump too, just for good measure.

Recently gutted the cat on mine, but I'm 99% sure its the same on the 4 cyl, it is 2 1/4" inside diam for bot the 6 and the 4, so a 4cyl one should work too. Mine has a 4 bolt flange at the trans crossmember where the cat bolts up to the exhaust downpipe from the motor, then after the cat is a section of pipe that heads into the muffler... no sensors as the cat is not monitored after the fact by the renix system. I think with as close as you are to passing, anything you put in there should work... just don't put one in from a 2.8 V6 as it is GM style and requires an air pump. Good luck.

I myself think youll be throwing money out the window, for the cost and amount of work it will take to get it right... I don't think it'll be worth it. If its rust free already, then I don't see that you have a problem. And theres NO way, youll be able to get EVERYTHING as clean as it needs to be for this to work right... I'm talking inside of frame rails, innaccesible areas. Even if you have the whole thing sandblasted, youll never get all the sand out either which would screw up the galvanizing process too. And painting it.... Thats a whole other story. You be better off just doing time tested things to keep rust away. I'm not sure if your area uses much if any salt, but if they don't, You really don't need to go through all the trouble.

Nice truck, but WAY overpriced! On bald tires, with a complete drivetrain swap, and a pic of it being teeter tottered on the frame.... I don't think so. Not when you can buy nice trucks for 5-6 thousand. Keep dreaming.

needs pics you say? well then, i guess you are correct, she dun gots lots of photos, but i lucked out and found one VERY NICE!!! Youre a lucky man.... looks like a keeper! And even better if she knows her way around a wrench! My wife acts like shes interested sometimes, but usually when it comes down to it, she backs off... oh well. I'm hoping to get my daughter interested enough when shes older to get dirty every once in a while working on cars.... she'll have to if she wants a car to drive when the time comes. And I mostly replied to this just to be able to have her pic up more than once!

The stud breakage is very common, the very front stud does the same thing, so you may want to replace that one at the same time. The same thing happens on the 2.5 also. Chrysler has a TSB on these for an updated part number, torques spec, and nylon spacer and nut. You need to pull the intake and exhaust off anyways, will only be a little more to pull the head.... good time for a bunch of new gaskets too. Good luck.

Sorry to be off topic, but I decided to Google "West Midlands". What a beautiful area! And the Cadbury Chocolate Musuem too! NICE! And... how difficult is it to get parts for your Jeeps there? Just wondering. You and your husband seem to be dedicated Jeep nuts...Keep it up! Good luck with the starter!

With larger tires, you can no longer go by the odometer to calculate fuel milage. Youll actually be traveling farther than what your odo says, so with that being the case, like a previous poster said, you may be getting better fuel milage anyways and not know it because your odo and speed are off. If you can find the original tire size, get its circumference, and measure the circumference of your existing tires, then divide the two together, this will give you a percentage that your speed and odo is off and then you can add that percentage to your per tank milage for a more accurate reading. Does this sound right guys? I think it does, just let me know if it is wrong. I did this method to my truck except with the rear end gearing to know the percentage difference between the old 3:55 gears, and the new 4:10 gears with no other changes. I think it worked out to be around 15%, and I use that percentage to know how far fast my speedo is now.

All the contacts in the light assy itself need cleaned of built up corrosion. I had to do this on mine too. you even need to clean the little wheel in the light as it is metal too, though it may not look like it. This is all assuming you have power getting to the lights in the first place. Get a test light to check the wires at the lights... should be one hot all the time, one hot with the doors open but dead with doors closed or hot with headlight switch turned to dome light position, and the third will be a ground. Remember too that the lights themselves toggle to different positions, to be on all the time like a map light, or only on with the doors open or switch turned on. Good luck.

I know Ive seen pics of one like that on here, but I don't seem to have any pics of it saved to my computer. sorry

Welding is not required to replace a factory manifold setup. Thing is the intake manifold has to be removed at the same time, and any possible stud breakages replaced too. If you pay a shop it will likely be more than a couple hours, I would think, especially if you need any studs. If you have a fair bit of technical expertise, you should be able to do it yourself no problem. If youre in a salted road area though the exhaust studs at the manifold exit will be a huge pain in the arse. Youd probably need to cut them off or break them off and hope the new manifold comes with new ones, once the old one is out, the new one will go in easy. the hard part being keeping the intake and exhaust manifolds in place while you try to tighten the bolts up. Good luck.

Possibly throttle position sensor.... if you search I think there is a test procedure on here for it somewhere. Youve just about replaced everything else. Good luck.

The rubi rims you want are 06 and older TJ wrangler rubicon. Your best bet would be to find a trans and tranfer case together already. Youll need to find or have made a rear driveshaft too. Just noticed, you want a 5 speed... stay 1990 and newer AX15 from an XJ, YJ, or TJ.... though with the newer models youll have issues with the speedo hookup, and the models from the wranglers may require clearancing with a sledge hammer as the TC is clocked slightly differently. You should also get the TC shift linkage from whatever donor you get the TC from so you know it will hook up right. Good Luck.

Turned my weekend household project beater into my full blown project vehicle replacing my volkswagen addiction which I could no longer afford. Free CFC parts didnt help this addiction either... turned my 87 Sportruck into a full power optioned Waggy grilled beauty! Thanks Comanche Club! :thumbsup:

With the power and torque available from your 290 V8, you should easily be able to go to 3:73, or 3:55 gears and be very drivable on the 235's. You could even go even faster too. Not that you would want to. Might help gas milage a bit too, not that youre worrying about that. But theres no way I would go any lower with the gears, youre going to be very revvy with 4:10's as it is.

A soft lower hose could be the problem, but iit could also be a clogged radiator. You may want to pull the lower hose off, and run a garden hose in through the top and see if youre getting good flow. if it backs up out the fill area, and dribbles out the bottom, you have a radiator problem too. good luck

I thought you were gonna say, you mowed the lawn and found an MJ you forgot about! :banana:

Bad valve seals, and bad valve guides can cause oil usage, but if you do replace the valve guides, you WILL need to have the seats reground to be concentric with the guides, otherwise your valves may not seat properly and leave you with no compression. If you are pulling the head, and only replacing the seals, get some lapping compound and lap all the valves just to see that they are all sealing well. If you don't know what lapping it, you have the valve loose in the guide without the spring, you put a light grit compound on the valve seat, you put the other end of the valve into a drill chuck, and you start the drill and grind the valve seat and valve together with the compound and see if it is making a complete seal. This also ensures a proper seal by cleaning any imperfections at the sealing surface. Good luck.

tell her the truck is a preoccupation, not an infatuation, and that if she feels threatened by the truck, to just tell herself... ITS JUST A TRUCK, not a threat to my relationship. The only thing threatening your relationship is her thinking she has to compete. Tell her its a hobby, its a way to "relax", and that there are many worse things you could be doing than working on your truck. Good Luck!

www.car-part.com

Ive never seen a tow dolly with brakes... not even sure if they make them that way. Ive dolly'd several times, never had an issue. I agree too about adding some weight to the MJ bed. That can only help with stability if youre worried about that. The dollies don't weigh enough to worry about needing brakes... same as a flat tow in my opinion.

You know you drive an MJ if it gets itself into your subconciousness. Had a dream that I was going to be buying a crew cab dually custom MJ..... for $120! I was excited to get a closer look at it to see if it was built well or not, but the dream didnt last that long... kept me thinkin thouh after I woke up. Not like I want to build one, but just like I wanted to remember. Some guy I work with removed it from somewhere and had it somehwere that I was able to run across it. I remember that for whatever reason I owed him $120, and I asked what he wanted for it.... and he said something like you do this for me for the other thing, and just give me the $120 for the truck. So I said OK. You know how hazy dreams can be. Well thats all... thought Id share!

You might want to check to see if the idle speed actuator is still working or if it has come unhooked. It is a little plunger like device that pushes on part of the throttle linkage at the throttle body. Sounds like it might not be working like its supposed to. Good luck.

I noticed the slight negative camber too when I did my alignment after putting the dana 30 up front. I don't think I'm going to do anything about it... at least not right now. Ive heard too the the adjustable ball joints are weaker than regular ones, so I have my fears there too. I think that if it was off any more than it is I would be worried, but Ive yet to see any wear issues, so for now Ill let it go. I think mine was right near the same as yours... so take it for what its worth. Good luck!

A lot of early light systems were what you call switch legged, that means the hot wires come into the light first, and then have a switch leg run down the wall to a switch, which means you have hot at all times in the light, and you need to shut off the breaker to touch any of the light wires. Newer houses have the hot come in at the switch, and then to the light... the old way saves a little wire as you don't have 2 runs going into the switch box. If your getting 90 volts on one leg, then you may be reading it after a resistance, such as a light bulb.... depends on how it was wired though.. definitely needs straightened out! You might start by shuting off the breaker to the light, unhook all wires at the light and in the bathroom, then turn the breaker on, and find out exactly where the power actually comes in at, and work from there. Good luck, let us know what you find