dasbulliwagen

It is a big deal! especially when most of here are picking them up for under $500. Not that I have any plans at all for selling, but it is nice to know that when or if the time comes I can point to this website and drag some unsuspecting sucker in to pay that much!

This Bulletin board/Forum is a free service as well. Pete would have to pay in order to get a forum package that would allow pic pasting like you want, and since this is a free forum to join, there is no money to get the upgrade needed to change it. I myself like this forum the way it is, simple and easy. If its too much work to load to photobucket then I don't know what to tell you. I'm not trying to be an azz here, just stating the facts. Its really not that hard once you get used to it. It is harder for me to load pics on my laptop in the first place then it is to load them to photobucket.

I knew there was a classic car valuation site out there, so I decided to search it and see what my 87 4cyl Mj is worth. HOLEY MOLEY! Ive hit the mother load. Low book on my 87 4cyl is $2040! Average is around $4500, and high retail is $6375!!! I can just imagine what a slightly newer model with 6 cylinder would be worth. The site is www.nadaguides.com go through classic car pricing and see how rich you can become! http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx? ... 7205&da=-1

My pipes are all rusted out, so exhaust pours out the sides. I'm going to replace those, and thought I'd take a new cat in the process if it was a recall. I don't know how to tell if my cat is bad. The exhaust stinks. My gas mileage sucks. Didn't come close to passing emissions. This could be caused by my vacuum lines not being plugged in, I can't figure out where they go. Truck idles good, and runs good. If you have to pass emissions with a sniffer test, then you shouldnt gut the cat, though you may still need a new one. What state are you in and what tests do you have to pass? NC used to have a sniffer, but did away with it years ago and now do a safety and tampering test on 95 and older, and an OBDII plug in test on 96 and newer vehicles, and anything 35 years old and older are now exempt from all testing. I know other states have stiffer rules for this stuff though. Good luck !

Do you beleive youre having issues with your cat, or did you just want to see if you could get a new one. If you think youre having issues, pull it off, gut it, and put it back on. There is no after cat sensor, so there will be no issues with the computer controls. If your state has inspections, like mine, youll need to have a cat (or at least the impression of a cat) on there to pass the tampering part of the inspection. I gutted and sleeved mine, and noticed little to no power loss with the 2.5. They don't have much grunt down low anyways, so I myself didnt notice any low end power loss.

The stock 4cyl cat is like eagle said, with one smooth pipe from the 4 bolt flange to the cat, and a smooth single pipe from the cat to the clamped muffler joint. If there are any new (new being a relative term) welded joints in there where there should be smooth pipe, they will deny you.

Yes you can use XJ shackles, but being shorter that may not give you as much movement as before, especially if you offroad alot. But it may just be what you need in the short term. Good luck.

Ive called for CL parts before, and got a guy who acted like he didnt know what I was talking about, so I tried to ask again, and he realized, but then told me that the part (a toyota truck bed) wasnt where he was at, and it would be a week before it was ready to sell and that he needed to move it.... yada yada yada. JUST STUPID!

I just love this! I can just imagine some poor hippie type crying because of all the environmental damage youre doing! Not that I advocate enviromental destruction, but this is still a free country, isnt it, at least for the time being? Keep it up, drive it every day! :thumbsup:

I have no experience with the 2.8 at all, other than the 2.8's in my two parts vehicles, both of which came with the 2.8, both of which appear to have died with less than 150,000 miles on them. The one in the MJ, the PO tore down to find a spun bearing, the one in my XJ parts truck has yet to be torn down, but appears to be well locked up. There has to be something to its bad reputation, because the evidence is too large to just be consequential. I do plan on building the MJ with all the parts from the XJ, but with a 3.1, or 3.4 swap. GM adressed its shortcomings, and thus any mechanic working right now would probably only really see later model ones that didnt have as many issues, as the early ones are mostly all blown up by now. But you can't just say that its bad reputation isnt deserved.

The XJ can be made to work if you have bucket seats. Youd probably need an XJ center console too... not sure if the Mj bucket center console has a provision for a parking brake or not. As previously posted, the cable are readily available, but if your pedal assy is bad, there arent many options. You might be able to make one from a YJ Wrangler work, as it is a similar style, but Ive never seen anyone do that mod, so it would be all guesswork and fabrication, albeit minor. Give us some more deatils so we can point you in the right direction! :thumbsup:

Youre asking for a new piece of insulation? If I were you, I wouldnt worry about it. It could be from your hood liner, or the firewall liner (in which case the dash would need to be pulled out), or from under the carpet/ rubber floor, or from in the seats, or from an outside source that has nothing to do with your truck. Chances are too that there is more of that stuff surrounding your heater core and or your evaporator, in which the only way to get it out is to pull the dashboard out and remove the heater AC assembly to clean it out. I did this whole job when I added AC to my 87. I used a whole can of lysol spraying the whole thing down after removal of all the crap from my donor heater AC unit. Good luck!

yes ive been told that it may be valve cover or oil pan but that may also be the case Mine does that too when the level gets down, it is the valve lash adjusters (lifters) not getting enough oil to pump up, and thus you get the ticking noise as the rocker hits the valve tip with no oil cushion. I keep a closer eye on it now than I used to, but with the blue book trade in value of mine being about the same amount as scrap value, I'm not too awful worried if something does happen. Though its such a good car, I hate to see anything like that happen... that and the fact that ive put about $1200 worth of new tune up, and maint parts into over the last few years.

I found a spare set of keys on my truck up UNDER (above) the spare tire, tied to the winch shaft with a heavy wire. Not sure how the PO was supposed to get at the keys without a jack tool to let the spare down though. That still has me confused. :hmm:

My 1997 Hyundai Accent is the same way. Being a mechanic, Ive made sure that it has no leaks, and fixed them when I found them. But even with there being NO leaks, it will use a quart every 1000-1500 miles. I attribute this to bad valve seals, as there doesnt seem to be any other way for it to loose that much oil. It runs great, has as much power now as it did the day I bought it used 11 years and 120,000 miles ago. It had 36,000 on it when I got it, and I started it on synthetic oil at that point, Castrol syntec 5w50. I just need to keep an eye on it, as I don't feel like pulling the valve train to replace the seals.

Rear flares are an MJ only item. Sorry.

You spend that much money on a rig, and you don't swap out the vacuum disco front axle? Its a real nice MJ, but if I were building one like it, the vac disco front axle would be history.

My dealer warranty clerk emailed chrysler.... as your dealer should have done.... and if the document exists, they will email it or fax it to us.

I just tried to pull it up in chrysler, and it shows up in the recall system as "Recall 276T Jeep catalyst", but when you click on it, it then comes up as "document not available". Ill try to see if I can find it in the old printed recall books for you after lunch.

After living in Michigan most of my life, I am now very thankful that I'm in the south with rust free toys! And you know that if you want to keep that truck like that, you won't drive it in the winter! I used to have to find a winter beater every year so I could put my nice VW's away for the winter to keep the rot off them. Nice find though, and I look forward to the build!

If you only get adjustable lower control arms, youll mess up your caster, and your front axle pinion angle. Wheels with a more stock backspacing might not rub though, bringing the rim further in, thus maybe missing the edge of your fender, but possibly rubbing on the control arm. But then again, more lift is always fun!

:needpics:

I don't have much atv experience, but the one time I did ride, I wished it had power steering. That would be a must for me.

Just about every factory original airbox is more of a cold air intake than anything you could put in there, as the airbox usually draws air in through the fender, or directly through the core support. I think though that the thing that the new ones do is smooth out the airflow coming in making for easier breathing.

The previous owner of my truck had Jasper put in a new engine for him.... that was 200,000 miles ago and shes still runnin strong. Just call around to local shops and get some prices, or go to Jasper website and see who is reccomended by them in your area. As far as a rebuilt longblock cost I think Jasper is pretty much right in line with everybody else. That will at least give you an idea what youll need to save. If you don't mind the 2.5 power, then just seak out anther 2.5. Thats the simplest solution.