Craft86MJ

Alot of the vacuum lines were ran off the old intake manifold through the vacuum switch by the temp sensor. The new intake dosn't allow use for full vaccum ports (as what I was told through Edelbrock) so all vacuum lines have to be ran off the carb. So what I thought I could do is block off the vent lines to the carbon canister and run a vented fuel cap.... Maybe it won't work.

Okay so I got the throttle linkage figured out, I guess my Jeep had cruise at one time due to the second throttle cable and the carb doesn't accept factory cruise. So I just have one cable hook to the carb. I'm not running the EGR anymore so I don't have to run any vacuum lines off the manifold :???: all I got is the temp sensor and the water outlet to the radiator and the heater core hose. All the other holes (5) on the manifold are blocked off. Planing on disposing the carbon canister as well. :???: The intake manifold didn't accept the vacuum for the Brake booster, so I tee'd the line for the PCV valve on the carb to the brake booster. If any of this is incorrect let me know, I'm still somewhat of a noob at this and can't afford for something to blow up in my face.

Have you tried turning the key to the on position and waiting a few seconds then trying to start it. Sounds like a bad check valve to me.

I got my 2.8L set up with a Torker 2 manifold and the 4 valve upper plate. I got the Holley 390 carb and I'm having a few issues. I was wondering if anyone who has done the swap could take pictures of their final set up as in throttle linkage, and what they blocked off on the manifold, seems to have to many holes drilled in it for my application. Thank you.

I am thinking 4.88's just off the top of my head.

I want to get what I want to do down on paper so I don't get anything that I can't use. Okay I have a '86 with the 2.8 I did the 3.4 swap but haven't ran it yet so my question is... 1) I know you have to run an electric fuel pump for the 3.4L, but what do I have to do to the fuel tank? or can I just put the inline electric pump on and run it? 2) I have a 35 rear, I want to upgrade to 8.25 (newer 29 spline instead of 27) reason better then D35, I want to run 35s, and their common here/cheap. To do a SOA all I have to do is move spring perches in 1 inch on each side and weld them on the top of the axle. Then bolt up, right? 3)I want a 6.5 Lift any suggestions? 4) What will I need for drive shafts (keeping front axle a 30 for now, until I decide what I want to do with it)? this should get me started Thanks

Okay, I know this is hard without pics but I'm putting back together my 2.8L after some how it got covered in oil I had all my vacuum lines marked before I disassembled the motor but there's one that wasn't hooked up at the time I pulled the top half of the motor. It's the one that connects to the 5 port plastic thing on the intake manifold by the thermostat housing that runs under the fuel line on the drivers side in-between the valve cover and the intake manifold and goes all the way back to the distributor at which point it is disconnected. thanks

has anyone used one of these to replace factory? http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P5249088/10002/-1

If you do that remember to take the jeep insignia off and replace it with a Toyota insignia.

Want to buy a 2.8L timing chain cover to complete my 3.4 swap as my old one came off in 2 pieces. :roll: Thanks

I'm in no hurry, My Comanche doesn't even run yet. I just don't want to drive several hundred miles to get one.

Wanting a factory chrome or black bumper for a 1986 MJ just like in the picture minus the rust please. Let me know what you got. Will accept a 1997+ XJ bumper as well. Thanks

My 2.8L has a distributor and I'm using it on the 3.4L

When cyl. one is at TDC which clock angle should the rotor be at on the distributor? I've heard anywhere from 5 to 7 O'clock. Is it the same as the 2.8 at 5 O'clock? Thanks

Sorry, just never heard of anyone doing that. :dunce: