Pete M

all classified stuff should be in the classifieds or in PMs. :thumbsup: car-part.com should be able to help find some WJ lowers. I've purchased a couple sets for $30. If you don't find what you're looking for, you might try searching for a bigger ticket WJ item (engine/ front axle/etc) and then call the junkyards nearest to you and see if they have the arms available.

:clapping:

Rockport offroad park in illinois Moab Badlands park in indiana

if you look closely, you'll see I don't really have pinch seams anymore. :( so using them as support in any way was never an option. but on the other hand, if I had some rust free pinch seams, there's no WAY I'd be drilling holes through them. I live in Michigan and rust is always stalking you, just waiting for a opportunity, an opening... a weakness... don't remember what the round bars are but they were one step thicker than what is typically used in rollbars. the square ones are 1/4" walls. tie-in plates on the frame are 3/16" thick I think.

I'm curious, whats a better way then? Weld all the way around? well, circles would be ideal. straight lines are bad. I fudged it a bit and nipped the corners on mine. it's sorta round now. :D but mine aren't welded on in the typical fashion. the tubes go through the frame and are welded to both sides.

found a pic:

many many moons ago I went with a leather generic $#!&fer boot from jcw.com Came out pretty nice. :thumbsup:

an unlit propane torch works in lieu of carb cleaner. :thumbsup:

the factory is NOT to be assumed to be the perfect anything. they gave us the dana 35, the peugeot, the CAD, the god awful wiring for the headlights, the zip nuts that break off inside the frame, the plethora of leak spots to get water under the carpet, the bumper hitch made from sheetmetal, and the hideous-to-drive 3.07 ratio in the axles. :thumbsup:

it's not all that cut and dry. when I replaced the blown 3.07 d35 in my 88 (2wd/4.0/stick) with a 3.55 geared d44 my mpgs got better. don't believe the hype. :D there are plenty of reasons why your fuel economy might be a bit lower than it should, from off sensors to off calculations.

Oreillys carries one: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42141-aw4-floor-shift-cable/?do=findComment&comment=427367

where did you find the new cable?

I didn't miss anything. I have a dvr. :D

grenaded a Dana 35 driving my 88 to work one day (back when it was a 2wd). grenaded the peugeot coming home (on a different day).

how wide is the rim?

car-part.com can help with junkyard searchin'. :thumbsup:

yup, the motor will get a bump in rpms if a highly flammable substance is sucked in through a vacuum leak. :thumbsup:

i believe you should be able to keep your FI intake and exhaust and just swap the block and head out

doubt the threads are the same, but it might be possible with some epoxy.

that's a new one by me. :dunno: got a pic?

have you checked with propane or carb cleaner to see where the leak is?

this one? http://www.jcwhitney.com/1977-1996-ford-f-150/axle-seal/p3071819d18911y1977-1996j1.jcwx

are you sure there's no evidence in the fuse panel of a prior master leak?

a small leak at the intake manifold is essentially a giant vacuum leak.

it's behind a small panel held on to the lower ductwork with an 8mm screw. :thumbsup: