Pete M

included in the master list.

fumes from the gas tank are captured by the carbon inside the canister. then when you start the truck, the fumes get sucked into the engine to burn. It's an emissions thing, but removing it can lead to a gasoline smell in the engine bay.

I dunno. I think Don's pulling our chain. I'm guessing he's chroming the axles. Can't have enough shiny bits under the truck.

a while back I watched a video of a rally team crossing the finish line while the co driver was sitting on the engine spraying starting fluid or some such thing directly into the intake. and then there's the Bronco I bought years ago. guys said the engine "ran". turns out it ran when you poured gas into the funnel strapped to the opened hood with a little hose running down to the carb.

starting fluid? for a fuel injection? that is indeed weird. how long do you let it crank before resorting to this?

that one will be low pinion and technically less desirable than the current one, BUT the shafts inside will use the bigger factory 297 Ujoints. might be worth it just to put those into yours. (86 got the puny 260 joints)

I applaud the ingenuity , but yeah, vice grips or my awesome locking adjustable wrench from Stanley. never leave home without it

nothing much actually. at least nothing that matches your current width and bolt pattern. unless you can find the TJ Rubicon front dana 44. but it's rare, expensive, and only kind of an improvement (is low pinion and uses a lot of dana 30 parts in the outers). of course there is a complete aftermarket axle, which is perfect except it's even way more expensive. how to keep your dana 30 alive? upgrade the shafts an ujoints with aftermarket goodies. add a truss and upgraded steering. and don't ever jump it. no matter what you do, it's going to need money thrown at it. big tires are not cheap, even if they are free. a side note: my axles came from a half-ton Ford.

is your charcoal filter hooked up and the associated lines in good shape?

yes, but "go big" usually involves axles tougher than a dana 30 looks aside, your truck and your drivetrain will always appreciate a smaller tire. when I was building my truck I always had in the back of my head the fact that 35s will only give you 2" more ground clearance over 31s. I split the difference with 33s but I also had a salt-belt truck so it wasn't any big deal to nip a bit here and there. oh, and I extended the bump stops front and rear to help keep things in check.

where does it smell like fuel, out the back or in the engine bay?

I ran 33s, that's what I did. and I still had to trim a little bit at 5.5" of lift.

Excellent! that should work out well. you'd be surprised how many forget that part.

got a recycling center near you?

this is one of those trucks that I'd just love to bring to the original owner to see their reaction. very impressive!

what the hell is that? better post it up in the main tech area.

possibly the more important question is what gear ratio will you be running?

finally chroming those tires?

yeah, 35s are a lot of tire for our little wheel wells. the proper backspacing and longer bumpstops can help but even then it might be nipping at the corners pretty bad when turning and stuffing.

sounds like it's properly set to me. an inferred temperature gun should be able to check if there's some heat from drag.

that sucks.

deal

what's the plan for the windshield? or do you even need one?

and don't forget the CAMshaft position sensor too. it can also cause a no-spark.

yup. just be aware of the duty cycle of the compressor so you don't burn it up. (I now use a Co2 tank because I'm extra in a hurry )