Pete M

indeed it is. there are pluses and minuses to both.

mechanically they are equivalent. But the HO other stuff gets the nod for being an improvement over the older renix stuff. Chrysler was better than AMC at putting together a wire harness.

oh yeah!

correct! My 2000 Dakota has one. (I knew I've seen it somewhere!)

MJs are rare to find in any yard these days, I just got lucky to be first on the scene. (although the seats and belts were gone ) the gate has a deep dent right below the P that has tweaked the lower structure of the gate. but since the handle works, I'm likely going to swap it onto my MJ trailer. the flares and lights are also destined for the trailer. maybe this summer I'll swap a decent bumper on it and finally paint it! I mean, it's the only MJ I've got that's road worthy so it might as well look good, right? I wonder what color I should go with... if pull-a-part had better prices for chunks of sheetmetal I'd go back for rockers and bedsides.

drove across Atlanta to pick up some MJ leafs from Chris then swung by pullapart south on the way back and scored a tailgate, taillights, rear flares, rain deflectors, b-pillar vents and an emblem. oh, and a handful of visor clips for the Liberty. (they are fragile as hell)

not sure if this is actually helpful, but my Dakota R/T had a similar issue where the limited-slip stopped... slipping. would chirp the tires just coasting around a corner. was fixed under warranty with a new unit installed so I don't know the cause of the failure.

what size tires?

inline radiator cap. all over the aftermarket.

whatever you do, don't use the waggy rear axle. the mid 90s Isuzu Rodeo / honda passport have a dana 44 rear that is ~60" and has the same 6bolt wheel pattern. and can be found with pretty deep gears and disk brakes. and it's a plain ol' regular 44 too, so the guts are easy to build.

there's a wheel guide in the link in my signature. tied with turbines as my favorite Jeep rims: the 15x8 TJ Canyons (15x7 if they came on ZJs)

yes. the bumper delete (or whatever it was called) was an option you needed to check.

different than this. note the lack of diff cover bolts and how the pumpkin smoothly blends into the axle tubes.

included in the master list.

fumes from the gas tank are captured by the carbon inside the canister. then when you start the truck, the fumes get sucked into the engine to burn. It's an emissions thing, but removing it can lead to a gasoline smell in the engine bay.

I dunno. I think Don's pulling our chain. I'm guessing he's chroming the axles. Can't have enough shiny bits under the truck.

a while back I watched a video of a rally team crossing the finish line while the co driver was sitting on the engine spraying starting fluid or some such thing directly into the intake. and then there's the Bronco I bought years ago. guys said the engine "ran". turns out it ran when you poured gas into the funnel strapped to the opened hood with a little hose running down to the carb.

starting fluid? for a fuel injection? that is indeed weird. how long do you let it crank before resorting to this?

that one will be low pinion and technically less desirable than the current one, BUT the shafts inside will use the bigger factory 297 Ujoints. might be worth it just to put those into yours. (86 got the puny 260 joints)

I applaud the ingenuity , but yeah, vice grips or my awesome locking adjustable wrench from Stanley. never leave home without it

nothing much actually. at least nothing that matches your current width and bolt pattern. unless you can find the TJ Rubicon front dana 44. but it's rare, expensive, and only kind of an improvement (is low pinion and uses a lot of dana 30 parts in the outers). of course there is a complete aftermarket axle, which is perfect except it's even way more expensive. how to keep your dana 30 alive? upgrade the shafts an ujoints with aftermarket goodies. add a truss and upgraded steering. and don't ever jump it. no matter what you do, it's going to need money thrown at it. big tires are not cheap, even if they are free. a side note: my axles came from a half-ton Ford.

is your charcoal filter hooked up and the associated lines in good shape?

yes, but "go big" usually involves axles tougher than a dana 30 looks aside, your truck and your drivetrain will always appreciate a smaller tire. when I was building my truck I always had in the back of my head the fact that 35s will only give you 2" more ground clearance over 31s. I split the difference with 33s but I also had a salt-belt truck so it wasn't any big deal to nip a bit here and there. oh, and I extended the bump stops front and rear to help keep things in check.

where does it smell like fuel, out the back or in the engine bay?

I ran 33s, that's what I did. and I still had to trim a little bit at 5.5" of lift.