Turbotyler

180Km/h is about 112mph

For other people's use. These cables are amazing. My motor cranks over faster and all my sensors love the updated grounds and additional grounds. These are the best thing I have done on the Comanche thus far. Please ignore the ugly additional plow wiring.

I would love to have it. I love mine, but it has the pappy look to it.

Nice score! I would love to have bought my MJ with that cap!

Wonder if he would split some of this up

Nope I did not. I had mig nozzle grease on it, so it came off fairly easily.

I put the shock on before I took after pictures. Just imagine the boogers gone and the welding wire removed.

Update on the fuel pump swap, it works and is much quieter! Still have the slight initial hesitation when I bump the throttle, but I am not worried about the pump failing now. I am assuming it is one of the temperature sensors that go back to the computer or the O2 sensor, so I will be checking those next with the help of this link http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm Discovered that the fuel gauge stopped working after I hooked everything back up. I was being gentle with it when I was installing the pump, but I guess not gentle enough. Anything you guys know to check with the unit?

Got the shock mount fixed. I picked up a 12mm - 1.75 x 30mm bolt from my local Ace, cut the head off, tapered the end of it, cleaned the area, and welded it the best I could with the room I had. If I took the bed off, I could have gotten the top better. After these pictures, I dressed it with a grinder and dremel. I got the shock on and the nut tight, so I am happy.

Got it fixed. I picked up a 12mm - 1.75 x 30mm bolt from my local Ace, cut the head off, tapered the end of it, cleaned the area, and welded it the best I could with the room I had. If I took the bed off, I could have gotten the top much better. After these pictures, I dressed it with a grinder and dremel. I got the shock on and the nut tight, so I am happy.

Made some brackets to fix the nutserts that started turning when I removed the gas tank skid plate. Hope they work out. The larger one is for the rear 3, the skinny one is for the front 2 on the unibody rail. The two on the inside near the driveshaft did not break loose removing them, so I'm hoping they don't when I go to put them back in. If they do, I already have the bolts and nuts to fix them.

I also installed my factory take off Rubicon Shocks. I pressed out the sleeve in the front shock and pressed in the the Comache's pin. For the rears, I pressed out the sleeves and forced the bushings over the shock bolts. One broke while I was taking off the nut, so I have to fix that before I can finish the last shock. I can't wait to get the tank back in and take this for a drive! All 4 shocks were beyond done.

I have had this entire week off so I decided to dig into a couple projects I wanted to get done. I started with my fuel pump replacement. Tank has a hole in it, so I had to order another. The fuel inside it was basically varnish. Once I got it out, I saw all of the rust in the tank. I took the old pump off of the sending unit and replaced it with a new Bosch one. Someone has been in the tank before. The seal had RTV on it and the sending unit itself has some JB weld it appears. New tank should be in by the weekend. The straps and fuel filter will be in today.

Dude you are the man! Thank you so much! I could only find others with the lower bolt breaking, not the upper. Threaded rod and a welder it is.

So I think the only option I have is cutting it off and welding on a bolt, but I figure I would ask you guys if you had any suggestions. All the other 3 came right off. This was the last one and it broke off course.