Pete M
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Everything posted by Pete M
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and to bleed out the last bit of air in the engine block, get the back of the truck higher than the front, loosen the coolant temp sensor at the back/top of the head and use it to bleed out air carefully after someone else fires up the truck. and have a rag overtop the sensor as you do this because you might get sprayed. do not do this with a hot engine!
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yes
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gorgeous scenery! -
looks fantastic! but we need more pics of the build! more details of the engine swap!
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post them in Tech and we'll answer them to the best of our abilities also start yourself a build thread!
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I completely agree, but that's just not in the budget at the moment. I more or less need to try something to get it drive-able again and later on we can do the whole shebang when I take her off the road for a while to do the suspension fixes and get the cruise working again.
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so far this plan is in the lead: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/kennedy.htm but using a Facet 40109 pump.
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he seems absolutely thrilled that you're taking his picture truck looks great!
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parts store people crack me up sometimes
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holy crap there are so many alternatives for lift pumps!! as I'm researching, I think I'm going to start with a new fuel filter. it's due anyways.
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What Rear End Should I Go With?
Pete M replied to jthoward8's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
03-07 Liberty 8.25 would be my choice. comes with disk brakes, 3.55 or 3.73 gears, and is a couple inches wider than an MJ axle to better fill up the rear wheel wells (MJs have a wider butt than XJs). only real drawback is that there is more bracketry to cut off because the KJs were 3 link out back. and I would go with the 3.73 geared for a bit more power. car-part.com can help find ya one, but honestly Libertys are everywhere in the junkyards right now. -
there are plenty of bumpers out there, but yeah, you need to search for cherokees.
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Failure! seems my jubilation was premature. worked great for the test drive but last night it fell on its face again. codes all came back too. codes of note include: p1186 fuel pressure minimum pressure at engine speed too low U0002 CAN C Bus off performance is this then the indicator for needing a lift pump?
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success! I think. well, so far for the test drive at least. later today I'm driving an hour up to my cousin's place so that'll be the real test. both rear ABS sensors show issues so I think I'll just go ahead and replace both lines in their entirety. found a low fuel pressure code but that might be left over from the issues with the fuel filter head. I cleared it and it hasn't come back (yet). all in all it was worth the money just to not give that money to the dealership. thanks everyone! I'll update as events warrant.
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oh man, those will be niiiiiiice...
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a harbor freight unit will pull codes? the last time I was at a dealership for codes they had to break out an uber expensive reader to do it. I may have to run to HF tomorrow and, um, "try out" their reader.
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if you don't power shift it or anything crazy, it might last for a while. or maybe not
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the 2 spokes just seem too... "old man" to me. 3-spoke for the sportiness win!
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the rears are far more accommodating to big tires. I needed just the slightest trim on the inner lower curl to clear 33s.
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see, you need to take a vacation... to do more work. but the fun kind of work!
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If it were me I would just park the 2 Jeeps next to each other, strip the MJ (keep all the parts to resell) and then start stripping the XJ and moving the things over. take lots of pics as you remove each thing so you'll know exactly where it goes in the MJ.
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to use the trans and t-case? not much. there should be a link to swapping around the various years of AW-4 transmissions in my sig. You can also swap in the bare engine block pretty easy. But if you want the whole HO engine and electronics you should plan on stripping your truck clean and installing the whole XJ. It's been done plenty of times and it's 95% bolt-in, but it is time consuming so be prepared.
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a 4banger with the 4spd manual will have 3.55 gears. 2.5/5spd would have 4.10 and 2.5L/auto would have 4.56. anything 84-86 can have weird ratios too. plus anything could have happened in the last 30 years. the only way to know for sure is to check. Metric ton MJs got the same ratio that they would have had without the MT package. 4.0/stick got 3.07, 4.0/auto got 3.55, and 2.5/2.8 stick got 4.10s
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ok, then you have the original Renix ignition. the Chrysler HO is 91+. in order to get HO, you need to plan on swapping everything. There should be a few swap threads in the link in my signature that will give an idea. 91-95 are OBD1 electronics. 97+ will require more work since there were plenty of changes with the new body style. But there are threads about that too.
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so you're looking for a whole drivetrain swap? or are you saying the engine and electronics have already been changed out for the 91+ HO stuff? 96 is nice because it'll give you OBD2 but in a package that more closely matches the old MJs.