Pete M

yeah, if you've got a good 3.7, it's super easy to get a working rig for cheap. plenty of those around me with bad engines.

that should be able to point you to where power should be. I believe the plug for it is in the engine bay and should be easy to get at. use the meter to check for both power and ground. you can also check for power at the resistor pack.

My uncle had one that was a little souped up. fast little bugger. so the top functions, but not automatically? I assume you're keeping the Libby for winter use?

why are you bring up threads from over a decade ago? just ask your questions in Tech.

that would guarantee they were good being in a moist environment.

keep us posted on how the rears work out.

what year/engine is your truck? (and be sure to add those bits to your signature! )

love the truck! looks like a solid project. feel free to start a build thread on the car too I need some details!

there is a downloadable pdf of the factory electrical manual in the link in my sig. do you own a multimeter or test light?

when it comes to #1 from the OP, keep in mind that reliability isn't the same thing as repair-ability and parts support. I offer up a new threshold: whatever year where I stopped being able to swap in a junkyard computer by myself. you know, when they became self-aware.

I offer up a cutoff of sentry key (or whatever it's called) introduction. when vehicles had to have that fob nearby in order to start. screw that crap. that's way too much computerizing for me in the hypothetical post apocalyptic wasteland.

I've learned that my 06 Liberty now needs to hit a dealership if I ever want the ABS to work again. While trying to diagnose the issue I was going to slap a different ABS module in, but then found that I can't fully remove the old without removing bits on the engine. so I said screw it and plugged the old one back in. But that was enough. I severed the tie, even for just a moment. now I need the dealership to tell the computer to calm down and that the ABS module is ok for this application. Fortunately I no longer want the ABS/tractioncontrol to work. I like it better this way in the snow.

I really liked my 97 Chrysler minivan with the 3.3L engine (the 3.8 could be a problem child). owned since new and we put 240k on it and it was still running strong when I gave it to a friend in need. The seats were super comfy and I could fit a 4x8 sheet of plywood and a couch in the back (although this was before the fold-in-the-floor seating). damn I miss that thing.

cars definitely stopped being fun to work on when the computers started talking to each other and only the Dealership has the means to hash out any disagreements between them.

for a year-round driver that sees salt? corrosion is going to be your biggest enemy and that is a hard one to defeat.

I realize this isn't a direct answer to your Q, but on the topic of clamps the best "traditional style" band clamps I've found were available at Lowes. fully stainless and decent quality. just an fyi for anyone reading this thread. never buy regular clamps from an auto store.

some day I'm going to find the rustiest MJ I can and build a hidden channel frame and jump the crap out of it to everyone's amazement.

if it's steel, it can be mended

it is for sale near chicago. I think he's asking 300.

I'm sure there are worse looking ones out there, but this one is definitely in the running.

anyone find one taller? I think this one may take the cake.

he hasn't been on here in 3 years. you could try sending a private message. he should get an email alert about that.

if those particular ones don't float your boat, there are other versions in other cars. should be a couple writeups in the link in my sig.

Taffy 3 ftw!