Pete M

I offer up a cutoff of sentry key (or whatever it's called) introduction. when vehicles had to have that fob nearby in order to start. screw that crap. that's way too much computerizing for me in the hypothetical post apocalyptic wasteland.

I've learned that my 06 Liberty now needs to hit a dealership if I ever want the ABS to work again. While trying to diagnose the issue I was going to slap a different ABS module in, but then found that I can't fully remove the old without removing bits on the engine. so I said screw it and plugged the old one back in. But that was enough. I severed the tie, even for just a moment. now I need the dealership to tell the computer to calm down and that the ABS module is ok for this application. Fortunately I no longer want the ABS/tractioncontrol to work. I like it better this way in the snow.

I really liked my 97 Chrysler minivan with the 3.3L engine (the 3.8 could be a problem child). owned since new and we put 240k on it and it was still running strong when I gave it to a friend in need. The seats were super comfy and I could fit a 4x8 sheet of plywood and a couch in the back (although this was before the fold-in-the-floor seating). damn I miss that thing.

cars definitely stopped being fun to work on when the computers started talking to each other and only the Dealership has the means to hash out any disagreements between them.

for a year-round driver that sees salt? corrosion is going to be your biggest enemy and that is a hard one to defeat.

I realize this isn't a direct answer to your Q, but on the topic of clamps the best "traditional style" band clamps I've found were available at Lowes. fully stainless and decent quality. just an fyi for anyone reading this thread. never buy regular clamps from an auto store.

some day I'm going to find the rustiest MJ I can and build a hidden channel frame and jump the crap out of it to everyone's amazement.

if it's steel, it can be mended

it is for sale near chicago. I think he's asking 300.

I'm sure there are worse looking ones out there, but this one is definitely in the running.

anyone find one taller? I think this one may take the cake.

he hasn't been on here in 3 years. you could try sending a private message. he should get an email alert about that.

if those particular ones don't float your boat, there are other versions in other cars. should be a couple writeups in the link in my sig.

Taffy 3 ftw!

after all the cleaning, soak it down with Fabreeze and let dry. that stuff can be a miracle worker for smells.

Love it! looks like you've found yourself a good project. Tech questions like the bleeder Q should really go in the Tech forum so more eyes will see 'em. not everyone peruses the build thread every day.

that is art.

no need to steal. that saying has been around for years. EDS even made a commercial with it.

usually when that happened to me I fixed it by cleaning the cables and battery terminals.

lol. yup, I'm pretty sure that altruism is the exact opposite of a bank.

I'd wager that if you remove all the usable stuff, that shell is still worth a bit more than scrap to someone.

quick and dirty way to tell gear ratio: put truck in neutral jack up one rear tire scratch a reference mark on the rear driveshaft rotate the tire around exactly twice while counting the revolutions of the driveshaft that count is your gear ratio (3 and a half times = 3.55, just over 4 times is 4.10, etc) if the axle has a posi, you'll need to jack up both tires and spin one tire just once (meaning the other tire will also spin around once at the same time).

how bad is the smell?

I assume you found the water leak that caused the rust?