Pete M

how does this not have its own build thread!?

mine cost about 80 bucks also, but that was because the parts I traded cost me about 80 bucks (most of a black interior). new is new though. and that looks brand spankin' new. mine is decidedly... not. but I prefer that because it fits the truck it'll be on.

awesome!

'tis on my to-do list. been putting it off until I can get to doing the real surgery of swapping axles.

same

pretty sure all those parts are Cherokee on mine.

metric square drives if I remember right.

tires are notorious for vibrating at around 50mph. also, stock caster should be between 7 and 8 degrees.

Indeed.

those flares are so nice they would look out of place on my truck.

took me a couple years to find a 4.10 pair near me and for a reasonable amount of money (I needed the front diff too since they are going into my Liberty). If you think the rear axle is hard to find, just try the 4.10 KJ front. not a lot of people rejected the v6 but still wanted 4wd.

duct tape = bad

there's a connector at the rear near the tire that is known to have corrosion issues inside. top 2 segments should both light up with headlights. you did put in the double filament bulbs, yes?

'tis a good lookin' truck for sure!

dang that truck is lookin' gooooooooood!

definitely not saggin' any more

looks like a solid truck! welcome to the addiction. be sure to add her to the registry so you can get a build sheet and birthday.

thanks for the life of me I cannot keep that bit of info straight.

all the cool kids are offsetting them

my little filter kept getting soaked in oil. just something to keep an eye out for.

get a v8 ZJ grand cherokee drag link. same ends and length, but it's stronger. or was that for the tie rod? can anyone confirm which?

frame side. visible if you look up from below the arm. each truck is a bit different and not all have enough room to give. Don's did though. remember, it doesn't have to be exact. In fact the shop manual states that pinion angle (driveshaft angle) takes priority over caster angle. as you lift and change the caster to spec, the pinion gets worse.

the factory has caster alignment with the picket shims (but only so much). WJ arms can be combined with drop brackets.

did you try moving the factory caster adjusters? Don was able to get enough to accommodate his 3" lift and retain the WJ arms.

can you copy/paste thread about it for here? I'd love to get that into the DIY list. Another great option is the Liberty 8.25. it's the right wheel bolt pattern, 03-07 comewith disks, and is uber-plentiful in the junkyards right now.