DravenBoris

You're in the same boat I am. I have two lwb sport bars and I'm also looking for a swb for my first truck.

I have a grand wagoner emblem, it’s the cursive one, if it’s needed for a mold. It’s the only one I have that the one that sent bulk didn’t have

Ended up using a 98 Cherokee booster master and will soon swap prop valve and elem wait sensor valve. I cut out maybe a 1/4- 1/2 section but I do believe I could have spaced it out with out cut and weld. will for sure need to get a different washer fluid bottle

88 2wd. Idk how to d the signature

Alrighty this thread is going to be a complete breakdown of what parts from what year jeeps will complete this upgrade. Also what route is the best ad most efficent what route is the easiest what routes you can just make work Info to compile is which booster is easiest to use but benefits the truck the most, and if you’re in a pinch how to make the less common ones work which master is best to pull which don’t work at all which proportioning block is best with the caviot of future disc breaks. Ie, use cherokees or grands. ( this s assuming that you’re deleting weight valve) an help is appreciated once as much info is gathered as possible I’ll probably compile and do I straight forward breakdown of the info for future readers. And if this has bee done we’ll point me in the direction.

Does that new fancy shift arm linkage by azzy’s Work?

Thanks I’ve never done this kind of swap. It’s actually my first five speed and will be my first five speed swap. Just enjoy driving it too much to give up stick shift and no way in hell I'm I’m going t swap in another ba10/5

Hey curious. Since the transfer case is clocked different what shifting linkage and arm slash bezel do I use? Wanting to use Cherokee stuff but I did dmt know what would mesh

I’m sure I’ll be able to find it but you got a pic of this connector?

I didn’t see any in this one but the three quarter guage I had was damage. Is there anyway to fix that besides buying a new guage?

88 4.0, I forgot there’s other engines lol I only rock 4.0s. But the 242 is from a briar wood it is 23 spline and the ax-15 is 23 spline. Will the yoke from the 242 connect to my drive shaft after I get it the right length? Also the tj ax-15 has some electronic components and as far as I’m aware the the ba10/5 doesn’t have anything electronic. How do I work around this? Especially with the speedo.

Okay guage is from 89, mines 88. It’s the correct set right box right speedo. gas guage is just stuck at half. Doesn’t go up doesn’t go down. But the Fuel light come on at the right level( I fill up when it comes on always at the level the light should come on) But the needle doesn’t move from half. With nothing over the guages if I poke the needle with my finger it just moves back to half. temo guage has the right sender i checked part numbers and I’ve tried two of them. When I start the needl goes from left to tight and back left once running but then never moves again. I used no Teflon tape anywhere

I believe out of a briar wood. Or a newer Comanche I’m not sure. I’ll have to ask my buddy has it

Alright did a full cluster swap on my 88. Prior, my gas guage worked. Now, the gauge is stuck at half. When I like tap the needle it just goes back to half, the low fuel light works properly at the right levels. Secondly, I swapped the sensors for temp and oil. The oil works great but the temp doesn’t move from zero. It’ll cycle left to right when I’m starting, but it’s the only one that does that. Never shows a temp reading.

If these photos load, this is what I’m getting. I need to do a floor board job any way so I figured I’d “massage” a little to deal with clocking. But if the xj cross member clears it enough I’ll just get that. There’s one at the yard near me. It comes with everything clutch to transfer case, but I’m getting a 242 from a buddy to put behind it. Do the mj drive shafts happen to have a different yoke( the end that mounts)? I know I’ll need to shorten mine but i didn’t know if I needed to get a different end as well.