Pete M

I had my 2wd shaft shortened by a local shop for like $30. Others have had them retubed and that's what I would do next (using thicker than stock steel). Seems like $125 gets one retubed http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... ht=twisted

I went through the exact same thing. Bearing was wasted and the only thing left in the hole was the outer sleeve thingie. Too bad we couldn't get to you before you tried the grease technique, all I made was a big honkin' mess (and it squirted grease right at my eyes, thanks goodness for safety glasses). Careful what puller you get, as I bent the one I got at Harbor Freight, but still was able to make it work with some finagling. Try to clean out the grease as best you can (use a degreaser) and then spray in some PB blaster or other penetrant (not WD-40).

That might be a bit of a challenge. :D An easier method is to fill to the bottom of the filler hole. :cheers:

Find a wrecked Liberty with the CRD. :D

Just wanted to add this to the conversation, but using the exploder main leaf will push the axle a small amount forward in the wheel well. Depending on the tire/wheel combo this could cause issues. If i didn't already have a 2wd MJ leaf pack to use, I was going to go with a Exploder pack (with the eyes cut off) under my MJ main leaf. That way I get the benefits of a lower height and the benefits of an extra leaf combating spring wrap.

I would recommend getting a 2wd driveshaft and have it cut down to the exact right length or better yet, take in any MJ shaft and have them re-tube it using your current ends. T-case drops eat up ground clearance and the slip yoke deelie is just a bandaid.

Don't know for sure which it is, but for future reference it is always a wise idea to make sure you can get the fill plug out of the trans before you drain the fluid.. :D

You wouldn't be the first to have contemplated that. :D

Don't sweat it. :D If you need any specific help, just let me know.

Well, if nothing else, the 88 sending unit will have your fuel gauge reading full when it's empty and empty when it's full. :D They reversed polarity of the dang things in 91.

I vote Renix. :D Nice and simple and it has a knock sensor. :D

Try to use something that cures and turns hard (and does so in a reasonable amount of time). The roofing tar I used in my 88 is still soft and sticky even now. :(

I'll be finding out in my MJs. I see no reason to put most of that crap back in.

One word: ... stroker ... :D

I discovered the hard way that my fuel pump was grounded through the tail light ground. :(

Those are 1600p across, try to shrink them down to about 600.

That's probably the worst reason to use something. Just because you have it lying around, doesn't mean it's what you should use. If you really don't want to cut or smash your fenders, then that should take priority over using something that you happened to get a deal on. Sell the tires and put that towards a better fitting, better working set. With any luck you might gain money in the process. :D I run 33x12.5s because I don't care about my fenders at all, and I have the cut, smashed, and now rusty fenders to prove it. Not to mention that my tires have suffered several deep cuts in the tread from their fights with the sheetmetal. I don't recommend them.

Man it's nice having access to the diesel liberty. I can get 25-27 while pulling the trailer. :D

I recommend an 8" wide rim with 3.5-4" of backspacing and a 33x10.5" tire. A 12.5" wide tire is reeealy wide for our little wheelwells and a 10" wide rim pushes the tire out even further and that's not a good thing for your fenders.

:agree:

I imagine it'd be ok for easy pulls. Pulling from a slight sideways angle would concern me though. There's quite a bit of distance (and leverage) between the tow hook and the rear bolts. Do any of the bolts do more than go through the first layer of uni-frame sheetmetal?

Can you double check the measurements? I get ~44.25 on my 90 MJ. Regardless, I can remember 2 guys that bolted an XJ axle up to their MJs and both of them eventually had bushing failure on one side and the axle shifted over when at rest and would wiggle a lot under the truck when moving. Also, spring wrap can be a concern and nows the time to think about longer beefier perches and maybe adding an extra leaf the the pack (I added an extra MJ main to my 88 and in the next iteration I'll be adding an Explorer main leaf). The extra leaf should go in right under the current main.

I went with the radius arm idea (using factory ford stuff) because I have no real intention of climbing many rocks. :D The track bar is what holds the axle side to side. Build it extra beefy. All I really have to say is: overbuild, overbuild, and overbuild. If you use bolts, weld it too. If you use welds, bolt it too. I recommend welding sleeves into the frame where you are putting the bolts. If you plan on driving it a lot on the roads, double check that a home-brew suspension is legal in your state (it's not legal here in Michigan). You could be really REALLY screwed if an accident occurs.

Yeah, copper is a baaaaad thing. Even a pennies are enough to cause damage. Found a more recent pic.

You have to be careful about what you put in the water. With only 30 gallons, certain metals and other items can become toxic when they wouldn't have any effect in a 2 acre lake. Copper, coins, rusty steel, etc need to be avoided. Anything that can harm the fish needs to be avoided. The can is long gone and I replaced it with a couple of wine bottle pieces (with the sharp edges firmly planted into the gravel). I figure glass is perfectly harmless. These days I use the tank to show off some of the cool rocks I pick up on camping/hiking trips. :D If you haven't seen an upsidedown catfish, they are neat. As the name implies, they swim around upside down. It's an adaptation from the Amazon river where they eat stuff off the bottom of leaves hanging in the water.