Pete M

I discovered the hard way that my fuel pump was grounded through the tail light ground. :(

Those are 1600p across, try to shrink them down to about 600.

That's probably the worst reason to use something. Just because you have it lying around, doesn't mean it's what you should use. If you really don't want to cut or smash your fenders, then that should take priority over using something that you happened to get a deal on. Sell the tires and put that towards a better fitting, better working set. With any luck you might gain money in the process. :D I run 33x12.5s because I don't care about my fenders at all, and I have the cut, smashed, and now rusty fenders to prove it. Not to mention that my tires have suffered several deep cuts in the tread from their fights with the sheetmetal. I don't recommend them.

Man it's nice having access to the diesel liberty. I can get 25-27 while pulling the trailer. :D

I recommend an 8" wide rim with 3.5-4" of backspacing and a 33x10.5" tire. A 12.5" wide tire is reeealy wide for our little wheelwells and a 10" wide rim pushes the tire out even further and that's not a good thing for your fenders.

:agree:

I imagine it'd be ok for easy pulls. Pulling from a slight sideways angle would concern me though. There's quite a bit of distance (and leverage) between the tow hook and the rear bolts. Do any of the bolts do more than go through the first layer of uni-frame sheetmetal?

Can you double check the measurements? I get ~44.25 on my 90 MJ. Regardless, I can remember 2 guys that bolted an XJ axle up to their MJs and both of them eventually had bushing failure on one side and the axle shifted over when at rest and would wiggle a lot under the truck when moving. Also, spring wrap can be a concern and nows the time to think about longer beefier perches and maybe adding an extra leaf the the pack (I added an extra MJ main to my 88 and in the next iteration I'll be adding an Explorer main leaf). The extra leaf should go in right under the current main.

I went with the radius arm idea (using factory ford stuff) because I have no real intention of climbing many rocks. :D The track bar is what holds the axle side to side. Build it extra beefy. All I really have to say is: overbuild, overbuild, and overbuild. If you use bolts, weld it too. If you use welds, bolt it too. I recommend welding sleeves into the frame where you are putting the bolts. If you plan on driving it a lot on the roads, double check that a home-brew suspension is legal in your state (it's not legal here in Michigan). You could be really REALLY screwed if an accident occurs.

Yeah, copper is a baaaaad thing. Even a pennies are enough to cause damage. Found a more recent pic.

You have to be careful about what you put in the water. With only 30 gallons, certain metals and other items can become toxic when they wouldn't have any effect in a 2 acre lake. Copper, coins, rusty steel, etc need to be avoided. Anything that can harm the fish needs to be avoided. The can is long gone and I replaced it with a couple of wine bottle pieces (with the sharp edges firmly planted into the gravel). I figure glass is perfectly harmless. These days I use the tank to show off some of the cool rocks I pick up on camping/hiking trips. :D If you haven't seen an upsidedown catfish, they are neat. As the name implies, they swim around upside down. It's an adaptation from the Amazon river where they eat stuff off the bottom of leaves hanging in the water.

If only I had property of my own. I can see myself with a collection like that. :D

I PMed you the link I found but I figure I should add it to the general data base too. :D Maybe some of the pics will help out. http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/convpgs/motorclutch3.php

Also if the CPS is getting weak the engine will tend to crank a lot before firing. The computer won't fire till it gets a good signal about where the crankshaft is in its rotation. Long crank times (3-6 seconds) are fairly common with the older MJ/XJs. As long as it takes about the same time each time I tend not to worry too much about it.

Seek out a 4wd transmission. Better yet, get one that is still bolted to the t-case, then you know it'll work. :D

Yeah, that would look pretty darn cool with black backgrounds. :D

Got a 30 gal freshie here with an overhead filter/light. Nothing all that interesting these days just 3 silver colored tetras (although the old one is about twice the size he's supposed to be), a red tailed shark, algae eater, one regular catfish and an upsidedown catfish (who hides all the time in the tall stump you see in the pic). I've been meaning to buy a couple more. Maybe another catfish or something that grows a bit bigger than 4". My dream tank (when I get a place of my own to put it in) will be about 150 gal and will contain at least one small mouth bass . Haven't snapped a photo in a while, but here it is not long after I got it many-a-year ago. I like to make it look like a slice right out of a local pond. :D

I keep meaning to pick up some of that stuff. Put parts on? I thought the point of the game was to have the least amount of parts on. If it is, then I lost the game a looong time ago. :D

4wd Comanches are about 1" taller than 2wd Comanches so I'm guessing that the 4wd connecting rods are about an inch longer.

I bought a fixed output regulator online for like $25 or so. Don't remember the site though. Something about balloons and pop equipment. :dunno:

:bowdown: Yeah, that one would definitely be mounted on the garage wall. :D

If you're going to rip it out, you can either simply put a T-fitting in it's place or (and this is what I did) run a single line from the combo valve in the engine bay back to the rear axle. It should originate from the side port and then you plug the bottom one:

The ballast resistor was introduced in 88, I believe.

For those I'd just buy new. This all comes up because I found a decently priced set of 3.07 TJ axles and I was thinking of getting them for the unit-bearings and shafts out of the front and the brackets off the rear (and then part out or scrap the rest). I figure if the bearings match, then it's a good deal. If not, then I don't know...

The best I can do is go to Autozone and ask them to show me them both (which I may do tomorrow anyway). My axle is still intact and under the MJ. But even if they are different, there may be a chance that I could swap more parts than just the bearings and it would work. :dunno: