Pete M

Frequently it's cheaper to just go get a 3.55 front axle than to regear one. And 3.07 gears SUCK are to be avoided at all cost. :D

I saw "89 Commanche" written on the fender of a junkyard MJ. Barely 6 inches from the emblem. :D

And Commanchee and Comonche and Camanche and... :roll:

Everything is on a donation basis. Send as much as you like or as little as you can afford. :cheers: All donations go directly back into the site. A small "ComancheClub.com" decal or a small red/USA/camo truck?

I can't remember what shipper it was, but I had a part I needed for work go from Ohio to Alaska and back to Michigan. Was supposed to be an overnighter (and they shipped another the next day) but it took months for the original to do the big trip. Out of the blue it showed up at our dock looking like it had fallen off the truck somewhere along the way. :roll:

I think the cheapest route would be to steal brackets off a Dana 30 and then add metal to them for strength.

click me!!

I really like my smaller "SUV" box. Might even fit between the up bars of the aftermarket bars. If anyone wants I can get a width measurement from it.

Have someone wiggle the wheel back and forth while you watch underneath. Follow the system down from the steering box and see where the motion stops. Depending on your situation, it might not be a single bad part but a combination of slightly bad parts.

There aren't any specific policies as of yet. Since the site is non-profit and donations so far cover most of my bills, I've been hesitant to start anything. But in the near future I hope to make a concerted effort at getting a full website up and running and when that happens I'll re-evaluate what the costs become and how to go about financing it. Until that happens, I've been fairly lenient with allowing posts in the pub from manufacturers and venders but would prefer that posts concerning items/products for sale go in the classifieds. If you have any questions, just lemme know. Thanks, --Pete

Even though it shows 12 volts, it doesn't necessarily mean that enough amps are getting to the starter. Bad connections or corrosion can stop amps in their tracks.

Every time that happens to me it's either a super-dead battery, or (far more often) some poor connections at the ends of the battery cables. Try cleaning them up to see if it makes a difference.. Do the cables themselves look to be in good shape? Are you getting decent voltage from the battery?

I would swap in stock MJ leafs and sell off the Stanleys. XJ shackles will drop it precisely 0.5" because they are 1" shorter than stock MJ shackles (or something like that).

madxj.com seems to be down at the moment, but thatnk goodness for Google caches. :D booster swap

Infinity-billion dollars. :D It'd be worth more. but it's red. :laughin:

With a fresh battery, it's possible to drive normal short hops for several days without the alternator putting any charge back in the battery. true but if it runs fine and then its turned off and then it just clicks then you know something is robbing power. Or there's a poor connection at the ends of the battery cables.

Out of curiosity, are you grounding the power wire to the pump's ground wire or to another source of ground?

Yeah well, I was sorta driving right by your house anyway. :D If you can't find one locally, PM me and I can probably ship you one.

A Chevy solid front axle would have the diff on the wrong side, no?

If you're keeping the front Dana 30, then your best option for a strong rear axle is the Explorer 8.8.

98 should be new enough that kbb.com can help.

Did you swap in the newer CPS?

If I remember right, you need the box from a 4wd 98-99 Durango. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71626

Someday I'll be swapping in a Dodge Durango steering box. The piston is said to be larger than our stock one.