Pete M

Infinity-billion dollars. :D It'd be worth more. but it's red. :laughin:

With a fresh battery, it's possible to drive normal short hops for several days without the alternator putting any charge back in the battery. true but if it runs fine and then its turned off and then it just clicks then you know something is robbing power. Or there's a poor connection at the ends of the battery cables.

Out of curiosity, are you grounding the power wire to the pump's ground wire or to another source of ground?

Yeah well, I was sorta driving right by your house anyway. :D If you can't find one locally, PM me and I can probably ship you one.

A Chevy solid front axle would have the diff on the wrong side, no?

If you're keeping the front Dana 30, then your best option for a strong rear axle is the Explorer 8.8.

98 should be new enough that kbb.com can help.

Did you swap in the newer CPS?

If I remember right, you need the box from a 4wd 98-99 Durango. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71626

Someday I'll be swapping in a Dodge Durango steering box. The piston is said to be larger than our stock one.

As of right now, all the hats would have to be identical. I thought khaki might appeal to the most people as it's a nice neutral color Theoretically it shouldn't be too hard for individuals to dye their hat a darker color but I've never tried that myself. I've forgotten what the other available colors are, but I'll post them up once I find out again. Flex-fit wasn't an option with this company. Oh, and a trick I learned from my Aunt for keeping an adjustable strap in place if it's moving on you is to hit it with a few stitches of thread. Tomorrow is my last final, so later this week I can pick up where I left off with research. I never did hear back from the cap company directly. :(

Try cleaning up the battery cable connections. After that, I would take the battery in to get a free check-up.

Check for a vacuum leak in the big line going to the booster.

Feel free to start collecting them now. Especially with the old ones, there's no telling how long they'd be up on Utube before they disappear again.

:agree:

According to AAI, the block cost roughly $1700 as it left their site and the in-between auto parts store says they don't do anything but put shops in contact with rebuilders, so by my reasoning that means either the install shop did 2000 bucks worth of work to the block or had another place do that work (or no work was done and someone fibbed). They should have some sort of paperwork concerning the details of that. If they did in fact have a specialty place do some extra stuff, than that's the info I'm looking for. If this engine isn't a stroker, then what is it? :dunno: I was hoping to simply find the papers rather than further disassemble the engine. So far I've only dropped the oil pan.

isnt it a LP axle though? and won't an XJ/MJ 30 bolt right in? Yup.

And if that was done, the paperwork should reflect it. All I want to see is the paperwork.

ZJs have a solid Dana 30 up front.

Man, why didn't you tell me that? I feel a bit better that you've gotten the authorities involved. Your emails made it sound like you were delaying taking action and I simply wanted to keep the fire under your butt. Keep me posted on what they say. (and keep on the hunt for your papers) Also let me know if anyone over there needs to see the engine in-person. :cheers: That's what has me puzzled too. This engine is clearly not a "stroker" (it needs a crank from a 4.2L to be that), the camshaft is from a stock 4.0L, and the original rebuilder (Advanced Automotive Industries) says they only do stock rebuilds. So what did the installer do to this engine to apparently make more power than a stock 4.0? That's really what I want to know most. :hmm:

I had my rockers sprayed with Rhino Liner. I love the concept, but would never again use Rhino for anything other than inside a bed. The process to apply it is too complex.

It won't explode per-se, but the pressure will find a way out and it's preferred to know precisely where that point is. :D On my 4.0, the blowby pressure easily overpowers the vacuum created by the engine. I tried sealing up the front once and it popped the silicone seal and leaked oil out. Then I tried putting a small valve cover filter on the front and it still leaked oil all over. That's why I now have the front tube running to a gallon jug to catch the oil. But that's my truck. :( Yours may react differently.

I think mine was a 95.

Hmmmm.... :brows: