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Pete M

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Everything posted by Pete M

  1. You could get some tubing from the auto parts store and route it directly from the valve cover to the air box. Also make sure the smaller vacuum line is free of obstruction inside.
  2. That's the fresh air return for the CCV system. It supplies filtered air to the valve cover as the vacuum line (the smaller one) sucks the bad stuff out. At least that's how it works in theory. My 4.0 produces so much blowby that the vacuum line can't suck it all out and it blows nastiness out the fresh air tube. :(
  3. Off the top of my head, there's one in "Sahara" and "War of the Worlds" and "Monster's Ball". And if you look closely at Sahara, that's not an MJ burning, but an XJ made up to look like the MJ that was used earlier.
  4. Stroker? :brows:
  5. My continuing internet research has brought up that the Superduty 350s through 01 apparently came with Dana 50s and the Superduty 250s after 02 or 03 started coming with Dana 60s. :hmm: Dang, I hate Ford. Can't make their stupid minds up about anything.
  6. I would switch to power steering if you can get a hold of the parts for a reasonable price. :cheers:
  7. You can change the wheel bolt pattern to the non-metric pattern?!?
  8. Just so no one has to do math in their head, the current tires are about 33"x11"-r20. :D
  9. Thanks for the sites guys! I've been doing a bunch of reading and I think I've got a handle on the pros/cons of these axles, but for the life of me I can't find any data indicating what they are worth. I can find tons of info concerning 78-79 Dana 60s and such like that, but my searches are not turning up people selling or buying the newer axles. :dunno: And the big question is, Are they not popular? Are they too new to be common? Or do my searching skills leave much to be desired? (Or all of the above?) :( So far I've been sticking with buying/selling the Exploder 8.8s cause I have a feel for their selling prices and I can afford the initial costs and then sell them one by one as the opportunity arises. But the big axles are much more upfront with no guarantee of any return on my investment. Plus they weigh a freaking ton!!! Well, a 1/4 ton at least. I can man-handle a 175 lb 8.8 around as needed (no, I can't pick the whole thing up by myself :roll: ), but a 500lb axle? Holy cow! How do you guys do it?! And last but not least, the axle in question is caliper-less and the pinion flange is broken but the guy says it is otherwise complete. The place is asking like $400 but I bet I can talk them down some. The problem is that the matching rear axle is NOT a $50 14 bolt. They want about the same amount for a 10.5 with the ford metric bolt pattern. To complicate matters, they are 3 hrs away so it's not an easy task to run on down to check them out with my own eyes. sigh... What would you guys do? Jeep on! --Pete
  10. So I know the F-250s got the Dana 50 front, but the 350s should still have the Dana 60, yes? I've learned that they have a metric wheel bolt pattern, but how much does that matter to the wheeling world as long as I grab a matching rear axle? Did the 250s have a different rear axle than the 350s? I wanna say yes, but have no data either way. Anyone know of a good info website that lists what came when? And the truly important question, what would a Superduty Dana 60 front and matching rear go for in the resale market? As I'm sure you've guessed, I found what might be a good deal on some axles, but I haven't a clue if the newest Ford 60 front axles are worth both the arm and the leg like the older ones.
  11. Pete M

    Fantasy Football

    I'm kinda shocked too. I know it's pretty popular. Personally I find it hard to get into football any more. (I live near Detroit :( )
  12. Pete M

    9/11

    I woke up to the radio saying that a plane had hit a building in downtown NYC. Rolled out of bed in time to see the second hit live. :( :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag:
  13. Well that certainly didn't take long. :roll:
  14. He has reposted the club. New story this time. :rotf: Click me!!
  15. Look on the slave for a tiny hole that contains a set screw that unscrews with an allen wrench. Also, I used the TJ's slip yoke so I don't know if the MJ yoke will match the late model 231 output shaft. :dunno:
  16. The late model t-cases are great! They are sealed!!!! :D I have a TJ 231 in my 88.
  17. Well, it is an old truck. :D The old rubber hoses get mushy, the booster doesn't quite boost like new anymore, the fluid is probably full of moisture, etc. Also, what size tires do you have?
  18. Sounds like he's got some residual anger. :D Click me!! And me!!
  19. In theory that weakens the system. I did at one time consider adding on a couple loops to the outside of my design to get the same aesthetics without giving up the strength of the straight column, but opted out becasue it would have been a lot of work to fit it into the top corner. I do regret not adding more. :(
  20. It should work if you delete the--> ?t=1189448219 Image Not Found
  21. It's probably time to change the gear oil anyways, right? :D
  22. I'm soooooo jealous of you guys that live close to scenery like that. :D I have to drive for days and days. :(
  23. As to bending the bar up, I kept my design nice and simple. There's 4 bends and 2 fishmouth cuts in the basic bar.
  24. Electrical conduit works good for fleshing out your plans on the truck. I didn't do the typical bend-out-above-the-bed like most bars because of cost reasons and strength concerns. Mine was made to be a real rollbar so I wanted to avoid weak points. I'm sure you've seen my photos, but for anyone that hasn't, I put the bar right through the bed floor and this is how I tied the front into the frame. the bar comes down and is welded to a cut cection of 2x6 rectangle tube which is welded to a broad 1/4" plate (to spread out the forces on the sheetmetal) and that plate is welded to my frame. I even nipped off the corners of the plate so as to not create a stress point. And this is the rear. Same sort of deal, but he plate isn't welded to the frame, rather it is bolted through the frame with a 3/4" bolt. Some day I plan to add the same size bolt to the front. The one thing I regret not doing was adding a diagonal to the main hoop right away. I had planed on doing it later and only after the bar was in did I realize how hard it'll be. :( Oh well. I'll figure something out.
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