Cabz

Does anyone have a good aw4 21 spline near central fl? the one in the daughters XJ gave it up at 301,540 miles and she needs a trans bad . this is her DD and only transport. lemme know

I have allready done all of those things :???: thats why this is such a pain in the arse. the alt is putting out great . all the cables are new and all the connections are tight . I even pulled the headlights and cleaned the plugs , I also pulled the headlight wire main plug and cleaned it . still dim as hell after a while . I even went so far as to pull the bulkhead connector and it is just as clean and pretty as the day it was built .

Bump :D

Yup it is pulling more amps , but why ? :dunno: It must be bad connection somewhere. , a bad conection will get hot and cause the circut to draw more amps . I am sure when new they worked just fine so age and weather are my best guess as to what has caused the issue Now I need the where :D as far as the cold goes , I am a transpalnt new yorker , I know the cold you speak of When it is cold out it drains the battery somewhat so the alt senseing this charges them hard till they come up to the right voltage and then settles out , that could also be the signs your batt is drying

Just figured I would see if anyone else has had and reparied this issue. Both my MJ and the daughters XJ run good and everything works well, at an idle during the day the volt meter is dead center . at night when we turn on the headlights the gauge drops a bit as it should . After about 15 minuetes of haveig the lights on they get very dim and the volt gauge now reads lower by a bit and if we turn on the heater fan or a/c on high the volt gauge drops to the red . I am figureing there is a bad connection or a large resistance in one of the wiring conections . we both have new alternators, headlight switches, batt cables and so on . the jeeps are both renix jeeps and I have pined all the fuse links and I am getting 13.5 volts out of them and 13.5 out of tha alt at idle even thought the gauge reads around 9 volts and the lights are dimm enough to make that look about right . so it sems as the issue is after the fuse links and before the fuse box . any Ideas? has anyone had an solved an issue like this?

Ithough about that , but the front DS coil is so broken down it is way to soft . it is almost collapsed so the lower coils are touching themselves

Funny you should say that pete, I specificly told rustys when I ordered there lift kit " i have an extremely heavy warn winch bumper , will you coils hold up?" they said " sure no problem" and since they sold the same bumper/mount on there web site I thought at the time they knew what they where talking about :roll:

any idea who rustys gets there springs from? so I can STAY AWAY from them! what kind of winch mont do you have? I have the warn winch bumper which is way damn heavy it's gotta be around 200lbs by itself . thats one of the reasons why the crustys springs are now about dead.

I am still dealing with em cause I havent had the cash to replace them, But it is making me crazy to see the ole girl lean like it is broke . So I figure do the reaserch now and fix it after the first of the year. I realy don't wan to have to fight with it again so I wanna make sure I get the right springs. It seems the LWB MJ has a tendancy to sag to one side since the gas tank is on the DS and I usualy ride by myself and take into account the warn bumper and winch together weigh about 250lb+ I am gonna need a strong set o coils

OK I have had enough of these garbage rustys coils :evil: damn MJ leans to one side and it's makin me crazy. does anyone know who makes the stiffest/ highest rate front coils? rustys are 150lb rate but with the warn winch bumper and winch the coils have sagged to about 3" of lift instead of the 4.5" they are supposed to be and the DS has sagged another 1" past the pass side I am thinking I might have to run a 6.5" coil to keep the MJ at 4.5 with the weight up front any ideas?

well if ya ever have the MJ up in these parts, gimme a ring :D

True the FSM list those as the readings you want. I am going of the scanner specs , I have set them both ways and the scaner spec seems to be better of for the jeep . Mine is set at .65 and I'm getting round 22MPG If your commin up for jeeptoberfest bring the ole MJ and I'll scan her for ya :D

no problem brent , just keep in mind thour .76 is still a bit high, the rande is .60-.70 . Mine is set a .65 just to be safe :D

glad to hear ya got it going better brent , but get that heep on a scanner and get the TPS set right :D you'll be glad you did .

I was just thinkn this morning about a problem i had with a ford van a couple years ago that was doing the exact same thing and it was a bad tps (voltage to high ) . i didnt think of as u said u replaced it but Cabz is right check the voltage first either with a scanner or just backprobe it at the tps , the voltage should be between .5v-.8v if it is any higher there is a problem . o and check it with the KOEO and the iac hooked up when I first got my MJ i had to swap the tps , I tryed every method to adjust it except the scanner and never got it close . the only way to be sure is to set it with a scanner . if it is not set right the whole jeep will act retarded. also sometimes after setting them you have to disconect the battery to reset the ecu or it will still act stupid. Renix is a funny thing sometimes if the tps is not between .60 and .70 it won't work worth a hoot