Pete M

XJ/MJs had two different add-on cupholders that I've seen over the years. ebay should show some for sale. And you can shorten up links using tinyurl.com or use this code (without the * of course): [url*=http://www.mcmaster.com]link to mcmaster.com[/url] shows up like this: link to mcmaster.com

Yup. Should be here til the sun sets. :D

Shouldn't be Clifford. I'm familiar with the name and the guy didn't say it. It was "Advanced Machine" or something like that. :dunno:

Well, he was knowledgeable about 2 things, the total cost and the power output (the builder supposedly dynoed it). :D I don't remember the exact numbers he mentioned, but it was something over $3000 spent and an incredible amount of horses (240 maybe? I really wish my memory worked better). I'm hoping the paperwork will enlighten me and put my mind more at ease. I figure I need 2 things; the phone number for the builder and some sort of ID number for the block. That way I can call the builder and verify that they did in fact build something for this guy and then I can verify that this block is in fact the block they built.

It's been brought to my attention that there is a stroker 4.0L for sale in my area. Yesterday I drove over to meet the guy and check it out. The XJ it's in is definitely a wheeler, or at least it was. The frame broke apart and the guy has decided to just part the whole thing out and focus on his ZJ and YJ instead. So there I was, staring at the engine bay and listening to the engine purr, and I realize there are few options for actually proving that this engine is what he says it is. He says it was built by a company out in California and was installed by a local shop. He knows nothing about the internals used, and very little about what was done to make the stroker work in the Jeep. Details just don't seem to be his strong point. :roll: But the paperwork should tell me all I want to know, right? Unfortunately, he left the paperwork back at his house (the XJ is at a relative's place). Great.: wall: That's like a 1.5 hour round trip or something and so we left it at that and now I'm waiting on him to scan the stuff and email it to me. So anyway, I'm assuming that the paperwork should include some sort of casting number or other identification that tells me that this particular engine isn't just some run of the mill 4.0 and is what he says it is? I'd be wiling to trust the guy if I was buying a gauge cluster, but this is a significant purchase and he's not even all that knowledgeable about it. Until I see the papers, I'd have to trust him, the installation shop and the builder all blindly. Any ideas or thoughts about tracking down info and such? What would y'all do? :dunno: The last engine I bought (stock 4.0) was still in a drivable Jeep and cost less than half what he's asking. The fact that it idled great and had decent pickup (and I essentially got a free MJ in the process) was enough to seal that deal. This time I want to make sure I'm getting the real deal.

Every once in a while the email doesn't go out. I have no real control over that, it happens automatically. He is good to go and just needs to come over and sign in. I'll pm him and let him know. Thanks for the heads up! :cheers:

:agree:

I used a TJ mount in my truck (custom crossmember). If I remember right, you should be able to unbolt it from the bracket and put the mount right on to your stock crossmember. Been a while since I looked at mine though.

You need to specify auto or manual, Dana44 or Dana35. :D

I'm guessing Wrangler.

shoots 44 mag and weighs 26 oz empty. Should I ever have the money, I will own this. I bet it kicks like a son-of-a-gun. :D

Then the trans is a Peugeot BA-10 and you'll need to fashion a square drive to remove the plugs. Most guys take an old 3/8" ratchet extension and grind it down to fit snug. If I remember right they are both on the passenger side of the trans. It's been a while since I've had one so hopefully someone else will chime in. And from now on, always, always, always, make sure you can remove the fill plug before you remove the drain plug. Just in case you have difficulties with the fill plug. :cheers:

As many leaks as our MJs get, I don't advise putting anything under the carpet that might hold water. In fact, I recommend pulling up the carpet and removing the stock stuff that's underneath. With any luck it's not already a big stinky sponge. :(

What year is yours?

You could try fabbing up a metal shield out of thin metal. That's all a muffler shield is. Just something to block/reflect the direct heat radiating out.

Maybe the other horn wire is touching metal?

But not everyone that manages to find a particular forum and then manages to figure out how to post a question is savvy enough to figure out or run an effective search. Just because it's easy for some of us doesn't mean that other less computer-savvy owners can successfully run a search (especially since we Jeepers tend to use all sorts of slang: transmission, trans, tranny, stick, gearbox, etc). I would rather answer a thousand questions about what type of oil to use in a 4.0 than to have a single person go away with a bad impression of the forum. Not to mention that many similar looking problems have subtle differences that the poster may not understand. That's not to say that I don't have a few canned responses (like for how to post pictures) or that I won't run a quick search myself to help them out. I just don't understand the intolerance for repeat posts. I guess I just prefer to strive for better customer service and help each member individually. :dunno:

Yeah, the stuff I got was made of heat resistant fabric/glass/whatever. Definitely not foil.

PDC stands for Power Distribution Center or something like that. It's a fancy term for "fuse box". :D Your TJ has one, but your 87 MJ will have a separate fuse box and a relay spot.

I thought about that once. Even went ahead and purchased some. But then decided against it since the truck was mostly for offroading and I wasn't sure what happens when the wrap gets all wet and muddy. :(

If I remember right (someone correct me if I'm wrong) the auto trans is a bit longer than the stick and hence the D-shaft would be a bit shorter than the stick one. Might be the perfect length for you. Anyone know the measurement differences off the top of their head?

Take a couple pictures for us and check for any stamped numbers on it.

I don't know any details beyond what I can see, but the muffler isn't marked with a brand name so I don't know if it's a kit or custom. I'm thinking it's a kit since the pipe seems to be rust-resistant. The pipe is made in sections and welded together (poorly). I hope it sounds good, but the truck previously had an old super-cheap muffler barely hanging on so it's got to be better than before. :D

At the very least, you need to change the U-joints in the shaft. Old joints don't like changes in their operating angles and that can lead to vibrations. Another point is that it's easier to shorten a D-shaft than lengthen one, so I would seek out a longer one (any 2wd MJ one works) and cut it to size. Do you have an auto or manual trans?

Other than the extra IMG tags, you seem to have it. :D