Pete M

If it's cold enough, your carbonated beverages will end up frozen. :( Maybe he's keeping something warm? :cheers:

I've alway intended to put that type of info onto a webpage at comancheclub.com, but haven't done it yet. That's why we don't have a FAQ post. Well, that and I actually prefer it when members re-ask the same questions, as every problem is different and there's no telling whether or not the person asking knows the subtle differences when they are just reading past posts. Plus it's more interactive and personal. If nothing else, this group seems to take great pride in "customer service". :D P.S. Yes, the radiators are interchangeable between the various years of 4.0L. It's a good upgrade to put in a later model one because you gain a radiator cap. :D

Yay! :cheers: :USAflag: Welcome home!

Track Bar. :D

Usually (but not always) when the resistors burn out the fan will still work on high (which bypasses the resistors but the electricity still goes through the resistor module). You'll need like a 7 or 8mm socket/wrench with remove the pack and then at the very least you should be able to test for voltage. I once had my fan lock up and it blew the fuse. I eventually figured out what happened when I stuck a screwdriver though to the fan blades and pushed them. Did your fuse blow? Also, just a word of caution, when the resistors are working, they get very VERY hot. Like set-paper-towel-on-fire hot. :eek:

You know you want another project. :D But then, getting what you wanted in the first place is tempting. Which has the greater pull? Sentimental value, or the desire to get a sweeter ride?

:agree: In a pinch, some radiator hose can be made to work. :D

I would. :D

Or you can just use any ol' 10W30 oil and change the oil regularly. :D Don't skimp on the filter though. Buy a good quality filter (meaning don't buy the cheap ones or a Fram).

Just send me a PM or email and I'll hook you up with some stickers. :cheers:

You'll need 2. :cheers:

Does the fan work only on the high setting?

I'm laid back like a dead fly. :D (old rap lyric)

I saw diesel as low as $2.66 on my trip.

I finally got the new ones in and I should have them all in the mail on Monday. :cheers:

As in rip out the whole board? I hope you plan to replace it with something, 'cause when the sun hits the roof you're going to bake. :(

No doubt, go with the 4.56s :D

Yes, you can lift a 2wd just the same as a 4wd. For that much lift, I highly recommend replacing the U-joints in the rear d-shaft. U-joints are very sensitive about changes in their operating angles and old ones can cause vibrations regardless of the angle you set.

The engine in said GC might be important. V8s have a different higher spring rate than the I6 models. Either one should still give some lift to a 2wd MJ though, as 2wds are an inch shorter than 4wd MJs.

My trans/t-case crossmember is bolted up. :D I'll snap a pic next chance I get. I used a TJ AX-15 mount, but I imagine there's a way to get the same result with other mounts. :dunno: For the custom crossmembers, I just looked up steel shops in the phone book and found one that both sold steel and would do some simple fab work. They cut the steel to my specs and then folded up the sides at a 90*. Nice and simple and reasonably cheap. :D As to welding, I own a $65 stick welder that's running through a 15 amp circuit. It'll blow the breaker if I go longer than 5 seconds at a time. :( And it's not powerful enough to truly weld either. But these limitations didn't stop me from getting the job done. I use what I call the "bubble gum method". I stick the weld material to one piece, then the other, and I make a small bridge between them. Make enough of these bridges and the part is strong enough to be removed and taken to a pro.:D I would never trust my welding skills with my life, even if I had a 220v welder. I found a local welding shop in the phone book and he did the welding on my bumpers and suspension crossmember. The majority of the rest of the welding on my truck was done by a semi-local semi-pro that does fab work on the side for fun. Since he's not insured, I did a thorough job of talking with previous customers and checking out his handywork for myself. He did the rollbar and rocker guards. Ask around and don't hesitate to use the ol' phone book (or yellowpages.com). :cheers:

My crossmembers (one for the suspension, one for the tranny, and one for the t-case skid) are all made from 1/4" thick sheet that I had a local shop bend up the edges into a shallow C-channel. I see it as a personal challenge to see if I can hurt it. :D Here's a scrap piece: No wait. I take that back. The t-case and suspension ones were custom, the trans/t-case one was a scrap piece of shelving. Still 1/4" thick and a shallow C-channel, just a bit narrower and I used that extra brace that MJ have (the one that mounts on the inside of the frame and the stock crossmember bolts on) to hold it up.

Ummm, none I think. At least no one I can remember. With an extra foot of wheelbase, MJs don't have the driveshaft angles that the XJ has at that height.

I would hesitate before pressure washing the engine bay. There are a LOT of things in there that do not like to get wet and even more things that don't like the force of the watter hitting them. Plenty of people have caused headaches by spraying the wrong thing (me included).

I would recommend a 4.5" lift kit and some 32" tires.

What size/brand tires were you looking to run?