Pete M

I am genuinely shocked that ringpinion wouldn't know!! :eek: Maybe you need to call back and speak with someone else. :dunno:

The fuel injected 2.5L is a superior engine to the 2.8L. I would just hunt down a good 2.5L block. If I remember right pretty much any year 2.5L block will work. The newer, the better.

:D

mine could. If Jeep hadn't given it traction control that I can't turn off. :(

I want to say yes, but the guys at ring-pinion.com would know for sure. :thumbsup:

Make sure you take the alternator in to have it checked out. It still could be a poor connection at the alternators or something.

I've preached this too. First thing I checked when I popped the hood at the dump. The terminals are clean and the connection looks good. I did notice however the cables are or atleast appear to be facotry originals, so they are probably on their last leg. Just trying to cover all the bases, but did you pull them and scrub them good? Just because it looks clean doesn't actually mean squat (and the reverse is true too, buildup of nastiness on the outside doesn't necessarily mean that the connection is affected inside). A good cleaning with a terminal brush can work wonders. :D And if you have any doubt with the cables, replace them!

See rule #2. :D http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1239

I would start by cleaning the terminals and checking the condition of the battery cables. Most of my electrical issues that looked like a battery or alternator problem was simply corrosion or poor contact.

If you don't have a torch yet, I suggest a small MAP gas torch. :D Burns hotter than propane. And make sure you get one of these little babies (although I've never seen a hand-held MAP gas torch with out one): self-igniting torch:

sue :D Maybe check with the better business bureau?

I finally remembered to go measure my 4.0L/AX-15/4wd/dana35 and I got 43.5"

I'm confused. Why would you need the computer and shifter assembly if you're going with Brett's shifter? I thought his dealie worked without them?

Yup. We had a bit of interference issue with my over-the-rail bedliner in a couple spots, but it should work nicely on a bare MJ (or maybe an under-the-rail liner). He's got the pics, so you'll have to wait 'til he posts up.

XJ/MJs had two different add-on cupholders that I've seen over the years. ebay should show some for sale. And you can shorten up links using tinyurl.com or use this code (without the * of course): [url*=http://www.mcmaster.com]link to mcmaster.com[/url] shows up like this: link to mcmaster.com

Yup. Should be here til the sun sets. :D

Shouldn't be Clifford. I'm familiar with the name and the guy didn't say it. It was "Advanced Machine" or something like that. :dunno:

Well, he was knowledgeable about 2 things, the total cost and the power output (the builder supposedly dynoed it). :D I don't remember the exact numbers he mentioned, but it was something over $3000 spent and an incredible amount of horses (240 maybe? I really wish my memory worked better). I'm hoping the paperwork will enlighten me and put my mind more at ease. I figure I need 2 things; the phone number for the builder and some sort of ID number for the block. That way I can call the builder and verify that they did in fact build something for this guy and then I can verify that this block is in fact the block they built.

It's been brought to my attention that there is a stroker 4.0L for sale in my area. Yesterday I drove over to meet the guy and check it out. The XJ it's in is definitely a wheeler, or at least it was. The frame broke apart and the guy has decided to just part the whole thing out and focus on his ZJ and YJ instead. So there I was, staring at the engine bay and listening to the engine purr, and I realize there are few options for actually proving that this engine is what he says it is. He says it was built by a company out in California and was installed by a local shop. He knows nothing about the internals used, and very little about what was done to make the stroker work in the Jeep. Details just don't seem to be his strong point. :roll: But the paperwork should tell me all I want to know, right? Unfortunately, he left the paperwork back at his house (the XJ is at a relative's place). Great.: wall: That's like a 1.5 hour round trip or something and so we left it at that and now I'm waiting on him to scan the stuff and email it to me. So anyway, I'm assuming that the paperwork should include some sort of casting number or other identification that tells me that this particular engine isn't just some run of the mill 4.0 and is what he says it is? I'd be wiling to trust the guy if I was buying a gauge cluster, but this is a significant purchase and he's not even all that knowledgeable about it. Until I see the papers, I'd have to trust him, the installation shop and the builder all blindly. Any ideas or thoughts about tracking down info and such? What would y'all do? :dunno: The last engine I bought (stock 4.0) was still in a drivable Jeep and cost less than half what he's asking. The fact that it idled great and had decent pickup (and I essentially got a free MJ in the process) was enough to seal that deal. This time I want to make sure I'm getting the real deal.

Every once in a while the email doesn't go out. I have no real control over that, it happens automatically. He is good to go and just needs to come over and sign in. I'll pm him and let him know. Thanks for the heads up! :cheers:

:agree:

I used a TJ mount in my truck (custom crossmember). If I remember right, you should be able to unbolt it from the bracket and put the mount right on to your stock crossmember. Been a while since I looked at mine though.

You need to specify auto or manual, Dana44 or Dana35. :D

I'm guessing Wrangler.

shoots 44 mag and weighs 26 oz empty. Should I ever have the money, I will own this. I bet it kicks like a son-of-a-gun. :D