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HOrnbrod

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Everything posted by HOrnbrod

  1. These clips come in either LH or RH orientation. Sometimes they will interchange, sometimes not. Looks like you ordered all LH.... Also the rod size for our doors is 5mm, slightly larger than the 5/32" rod size you ordered. Hopefully these work for you.
  2. Once in awhile new R & L handle assemblies pop up on Ebay, p/n 83504101 (R) and -02 (L). They really tighten things up. Also the pivot hinge pin gets worn over the years. An easy cheap fix is to drill the worn pin out and replace it with a stainless steel pop-rivet and appropriately sized stainless flat washers on each end.
  3. You have a 91 - check for fault codes. I had symptoms like that and it turned out to be a failing sync sensor in the distributor, code 54. Here's how to do it.
  4. It IS a bad battery. But yeah, it's a slow night.
  5. I'm betting on a sulfated cell or two since it's removed from the vehicle every winter, plus it's four years old.
  6. Sounds like you're in Canada. Take the battery somewhere and get it load tested. Most battery resellers will do it for free.
  7. I went through that problem with overheating only at speed and/or going up long grades. New water pump, radiator, hoses, stat. etc. etc. Turned out the cat was clogged nearly shut, discovered it when we were at a friends shop running a new exhaust system. Replaced it with one of the below - no problems since. ROLL TIDE
  8. The larger p/n MJ bushing is p/n 52000876, and looks like it's NLA for genuine Mopar. Moog still makes the two; SB371 (small) and SB372.
  9. It looks like the two smaller shackle end bushings (52000504) are the same but the other end uses different p/n bushings.
  10. Any decent digital multimeter has a 0-10 amp scale you can use inline to check the motor's amp draw. Open the wiper cowl and do a visual first. Check the linkage and bushings - the bushings will most likely be shot. Pop the linkage off the motor output shaft and see how the motor runs w/o the load too. Wiper motors are an easy to find junkyard item..
  11. First thing you should do is junk the idiot light gauge cluster.
  12. Gog is correct. That's the most likely scenario.
  13. Cool, sounds like it's open. Here's one.
  14. Are you positive it's bad? Did you test it with an ohmmeter?
  15. No TRANS fuse on the HO fuse box.
  16. Where's the TRANS fuse on a Renix?
  17. I picked up a NOS Mopar booster, a used 95 Master cylinder, a master cylinder rebuild kit, and pre-flared length of brake line. You can even use your original flare nuts on the new line you have to bend. It's a pretty simple job - hardest part is re-bleeding the system.
  18. Sounds like a good time to upgrade to the new dual-diaphragm booster and master from the 95-96 XJs. Easy PnP install on your 91 - just need to bend one new brake line. Don't waste $$ and time trying to fix it.
  19. Knuck, stick a 12A or 15A fuse in the TCU slot instead of the normal 10A. I had one that always blew a 10A fuse, stuck a 15A in and it worked fine for years. Might be a good idea to check the connector and make sure all the grounds are solid to the TCU also.
  20. In a quick skim, it's correct for a manual transmission, but with Cali emissions: Jeep. California. Manual trans, 4.0L California. Odd. It was worth a check though.
  21. Okay, then what's the part number of your ECU?
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