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HOrnbrod

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Everything posted by HOrnbrod

  1. You need some MT springs, bags, and overload shocks. Be sure to crank your headlights down; they are looking at the sky on high beam now.
  2. NGK V-Power, ZFR5N or 3459
  3. I'm pretty sure Jeep switched to a 2-wire speed sensor on the 92 MJ/XJ models. My 91 has a 3-wire, and since I'm 2WD the speed sensor is on the AW4. I had the same code once, replaced the sensor and that cleared the code. Have you removed the connector from your t-case and eyeballed the wiring and pins to see if everything looks okay?
  4. Is it 23 spline out? "Early 242s from 1988 through 1991 featured a conventional mechanical (cable) drive speedometer output. In 1992, Jeep introduced a three-wire, digital square wave Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), in the vein of modern automotive systems." http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/np242
  5. Me either. Get the Spicer 708203 Differential Clutch Pack https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-708203-Differential-Clutch-Pack/dp/B00W9JEHDG
  6. Have you adjusted the TV cable? Should take about two minutes to do.
  7. Heck ya, go for it. Be careful popping the needle. I've gotten them off okay using a couple of wooden Popsicle sticks applying as equal pressure as possible on opposite sides. Good luck..
  8. Yes, it's completely different than the Renix face. I forget which year Renix cluster this one came off...
  9. Everyone should have one of THESE.
  10. Needle puller. Used these in a calibration lab back in the olde days.
  11. Or the needle has come off and someone stuck it back on wrong. The OP said it advances linearly with the RPMs. I had one come off my old cluster with the giant speedo .
  12. Agree. Went from 3.55 to 4.10 on my D44 using thick gears and and replaced the clutch packs in the factory Trac-Lok. All is well.
  13. That tach in my pic is from an 88. Didn't notice that your "new" cluster is from an 86. If so I'm not sure you have a 4/6 switch on that 86 tach or not. take a peek anyways if you don't have the cluster installed yet.
  14. You have to remove the tach from the cage, rotate the switch / pot, then re-install the tach in the cage.
  15. There should be a switch or potentiometer on your tach like the below. Whatever position it's in, switch / turn it to the opposite position. Then it should work for you accurately.
  16. You could have applied 12V and GND at the connector pins and checked for the solenoid clicks w/o pulling the pan, but at least you've seen them up close and personal now. Last thing I can think of: Check for 12VDC on the TCU connector pins D14 (RED wire - battery 12V) and D16 (YEL wire - 12V IGN).
  17. Thanks - blew up the pic and saw it. No biggie..
  18. Gonna look good when you get the roll bar in. And yes, the black paint on the wheels has to go. What's with the front flares?
  19. Your 88 uses clips.
  20. Great stuff for indoor wood, but should have annual reapplication if outside.
  21. Your drip rails use clips - they are not glued on.
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