HOrnbrod

You're right, thinking of external slave...

Crown Is all C.R.A.P.

Input shaft bearing, p/n 83506074, 92mmODx25.5mmWD. Plenty on Ebay and elsewhere. Your problem sounds like a throwout bearing though..

All your comments pertain to stock engines. Of course they are long stroke tractor torque engines. Didn't I say that? 6200-rpm redline is the high standard for production line stock crank engines. That spec doesn't pertain to most built strokers. A 12 counterweight balanced crank can easily do 7K or more, and that's what reputable Jeep I6 engine builders test them at. Even Hesco's 6 counterweight balanced cranks like mine are tested briefly up to 7K. That's why they cost so damn much.

What's the Lada engine, about 1.5L 4-banger or so? A little short-stroke engine like that should rev to 9-10K before it blows up. By design. Comparing that engine to a Jeep I6 is apples and oranges. One of the reasons I quit having dynos done for every upgrade is because I couldn't stand it when the revs were high. You ever heard a Jeep stroker screaming at 5-6K RPM? It's not pleasant when it's your's and you're not used to it. The AMC 6-bangers were never built for high RPM, they were built originally for low RPM torque, like a tractor engine. Lee at Hesco used to get a laugh when I was cringing at these RPMs. He told me that every stroker coming out of their shop was dyno tested up to 7K RPM. That's one of the reasons why their engines have the best rep in the business.

You can reuse your existing drive shaft but you will need to replace the slip yoke (and u-joint) because of the spline count difference, 21 vs. 23.

Well, just got back from spending about 1-1/2 hr. running around town: beer, dog food, lawn mower gas, paid a couple of bills, etc. in that priority. Kept it in 3rd, 50MPH @ ~2500RPM max. Felt strange driving that slow w/o O/D. We'll continue and see what happens. One-half tank approx. to go, then we'll do it again on a full tank.

Will do, starting today for at least until the next fill-up.

Thanks John - this is true. I think four runs overall. What's the point of doing a so-called "upgrade" if it doesn't help or even makes things worse? Unfortunately the last dyno run was about ten years ago. The goal after the stroker install was to make up for the ~30% power loss between the stroker engine test stand numbers and the original rear wheel dyno tests. This 30% drivetrain loss was mainly caused by the inefficient AW4. Once that 30% and then some was overcome I didn't do any more runs.

Remove the throttle body and clean. Replace and lubricate throttle linkage and cable. I like to use a dry cable lube like the below for this. If no help try adjusting the TPS.

That's what you get for frequenting Wally World.

Ya, the torque peak is up around 3K RPM. I'll give that a shot, thanks.

I asked Lee (Hesco's owner) about the multi-port injectors awhile back and he said they were a waste of money. He claimed there was absolutely no benefit to be gained from them. He's built thousands of performance Jeep engines and prefers the Mopar 53030778 gray tops for the 4.5-4.7 strokers. I do have a new set of the Bosch 703 "Neon" injectors however, and if and when the Mopars go bad I'll throw them in. I know a manual would definitely help out with the powertrain efficiency, but doubt if I'll ever get rid of the AW4.

Count me in.

On the highway I keep it right around 70 MPH, which averages 2300-2400 RPM. I have been close to 24 MPG quite a few times on a fill-up while just droning along w/o interruptions. I think the 99+ intake and 62mm throttle body combination is better suited for cruising economy than stop-and go. Unfortunately at least 95% on my driving is around town. Although I'm pleased with the good highway mileage, I'd be more pleased if the MPG delta between city and highway driving were closer. Maybe I'll slap on a stock throttle body that necks down to 56mm and try that. I can also play around with the fuel pressure settings since I have an adjustable regulator and an A/F meter. Ideally I'd like to bring up the in-town MPG w/o affecting the highway MPG. I think I'll start by lowering the fuel pressure a few psi and monitor the A/F. Right now I run at 49/39 psi using the 97 injectors.

Naw - it averages 12-13 around town. But that sucks. No leaks - wish it were that easy.

That's weird. I've changed out front pads many times and all the clips were always the same. The parts manual says they all carry the same p/n, J3239865. Yet I just looked them up on Advance Auto's site and they show these:

All four anti-rattle clips carry the same p/n. I've never seen any differences between them. What brand are you using?

" When you shift manually, you lose first gear." True. You can't just wire in a progressive stepping rotary switch w/o protect diodes with our TCUs. With toggles it's no problem since they are iso. I'll be looking at it tomorrow..

Frank Swygert. Haven't seen anything from him lately.

Electrically by the ON/OFF position combinations of the three AW4 internal solenoids from signals generated by the TCU. You can shift manually through the gears with the shift selector except for O/D. You can wire in a simple manual shifter using four toggle switches, plenty of wiring diagrams on the interweb.

^^ That is a RADesigns shifter and yes, it is ugly. Been looking for something I can build into my console that won't look like a wart. I still have my column shifter and there's plenty of room in the console to build it in. Maybe a simple rotary switch or something.

Been thinking about wiring in a manual shifter for around town like the below on the console. Picky-picky. Close enough.

I had a piggyback Unichip hardwired in on the stroker for about five years after the install and one of the things it could do was timing control: " Unichip can vary the amount of timing for every rpm, say 3 degrees more from 1500-3500 rpm, 2 degrees from 3700-5500rpm, and 1.5 degree from 5600 up to redline". You could also vary signals from the IAT, CPS, MAP, and TPS. But the programming was proprietary, Hesco did the tuning. Once they got it right it was great. It quit working about six years later and I pulled it out and never replaced it. That or something similar is always an option, but I doubt it'll ever happen again.

I think the Honda 2K will be fine for camping. It'll power that small A/C and some lights and other small appliances with ease. A 10K is way overkill for camping. We had a Honda 5K when we lived in Guam for the lights and ref when the power went out as it always did. Never failed us, and super quiet. I have a Chicago 7K now we use for the same thing, but it's noisy as hell. I'd like the Honda especially if the 5hrs is true.