HOrnbrod

Yes, a fuel pressure test can be done while cranking the engine. But first, check for fault codes. http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/ Huh? I think you are mixing up Chrysler and Renix.

If you find an XJ or MJ D44 at a reasonable price, grab it. It's real easy to swap in disk brakes from a ZJ or Ford Explorer.

That's a push rod from the master cylinder to the brake pedal. So the master cylinder M2960 you purchased probably has another application it can be used on besides Jeeps. Or it's the new push rod you should have used.

Thanks! They should be all the same, but you never know for sure until you eyeball it.

According to the parts manual, this only fits the 99 - 04 4.0 engines. The 99-04 oil pans have a different p/n's than the older pans also. Has anyone tried p/n 53010511AA to see if this reinforcement collar actually fits the older pans? The older p/n is J3243116 and looks like the below. Mine is MIA too.

That's an option I never thought of Paul - looks pretty nice too. Thanks!

Haze gray all the way!! Love it Chief. :cheers: No biggie, but I'd pickup a 1994 and up distributor and stick it in there, and you'll never have to pull it again unless the shaft breaks or the drive gear strips unlike the earlier one that's in there now.

You still haven't stated what year and engine you are driving.

Test Power Brake Booster If the pedal feels "hard" while the engine is running, the booster isn't operating correctly. If you suspect the booster is defective, do not attempt to disassemble or repair the power booster. Doing so is unsafe and will void your warranty. Test 1 With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any residual vacuum in the booster. Hold pressure on the pedal while you start the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal should drop about a 1/4", this indicates that the booster is working properly. Test 2 Run the engine a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and press the pedal several times slowly. The first pump should be fairly low. The second and third should become slightly firmer. This indicates an airtight booster. Test 3 Start the engine and press the brake pedal, then stop the engine with the pedal still pressed. If the pedal does not drop after holding the pressure on the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight. Inspect the Check Valve Disconnect the vacuum hose where it connects to the intake manifold. Do not disconnect the vacuum line from the booster. Air should not flow when pressure is applied, but should flow when suction is applied. If air flows in both directions or there is no air flow, the valve needs to be replaced. Verify Enough Vacuum Check the operating vacuum pressure when the engine is at normal operating temperature. There should be a minimum of 18 in. of vacuum. Vacuum may be increased by properly tuning the engine, checking for vacuum leaks and blockages in vacuum lines.

Thanks Bo. That makes perfect sense. So, do XJs need these special tools to bleed them? Had several but never had to bleed the brakes on one. I could check my FSM but I'm lazy tonight.

You're not the only one. :hmm:

You can start by editing your signature stating the year, engine, transmission, etc. of your MJ so we know what vehicle you are referring to.

Finish the other side, make sure nothing is tightened, just snugged up to allow movement of the spring and shackle bolts. Lower it down, then jump up and down on the bumper to settle everything, even back it in up your driveway then forward, then snug/torque it all up. Then your axle centering should look like it was originally.

Oh joy.

Follow the hard plastic vacuum line that runs forward along the right side inner fender and terminates at the vacuum canister behind the front bumper. The plastic line usually breaks where it passes through the forward bulkhead in front of the battery.

Almost Jake. :laughin: Man, that thing is nice. :drool: :drool:

Cool - thanks for clarifying. :thumbsup:

Interested? Are you offering to give them away or are you selling them? If you are giving them away, please state that. If selling, post an ad in the Classified For Sale forum including your asking price.

^^ Agree with this. Also while your drive shaft is out, check the slip yoke bushing inside the AW4 tail extension. I had one that was sloppy in my 2WD years ago, and the bushing was egged out. I replaced the bushing and the slip yoke because of the pitting on the shaft, and it got rid of the random vibrations I was having. http://comancheclub.com/topic/35049-vibration-issues/?hl=tail+piece&do=findComment&comment=351589

Nicely done. :thumbsup:

:shake: These things are cheap - doesn't make any sense to waste time at a junkyard for stuff like this. I got mine new at Rock Auto. CH1248106 {#55175009, Left} CH1249106 {#55175008, Right} They are also on Ebay HERE.

What's venial flooring? Do you mean vinyl flooring as in rubber? :hmm:

You can't use anything from your old drum brakes. The below shows how the e-brake shoes are set up on the backing plate for a ZJ. The Ford Explorer e-brake is set up the same way.

When you swapped the TPS to the new throttle body, did you make sure the TB shaft fit into the TPS slot properly as orientated and without turning it cw or ccw? You have to put it in a 1/8 turn to the right, then turn it to the left to up the screws back in. A jammed or misaligned TPS can cause all the symptoms you are experiencing. Also, start it up and disconnect the TPS connector and see if it makes a difference. Also, did you reuse the IAC gasket when you transferred it over to the new TB or use a new gasket? They are sometimes difficult to remove w/o tearing them.

Ooooooo, I'm diggin' the pink. But seriously, the black looks pretty good. Thanks very much for doing he graphics Jeremy. :cheers: