HOrnbrod

Ignition switch, p/n J3250576, available at Rockauto and others. Ignition switch alignment: Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning On non-tilt columns: Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered. Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). On tilt columns: Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position. Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). Install any components removed for switch access.

Everything back there grounds behind the left drivers side tail lamp. Pull the lamp and freshen up the ground connection behind it. The grounds are distributed in a connector behind the rear bumper. Pull that connector apart and clean it up. I think there's another connector further up the rear harness on the drivers side in front of the fuel tank. Follow the harness from the rear bumper connector forward and look for any frayed wiring and that connector. Clean and refresh that connector also.

I know - just raggin' on you and your compatriots who live up in the tundra. :cheers:

I wrote to Team Cherokee asking just that - of course I heard nothing back.

The drivers side seat pan gets roached out over time due to all the toxic gas that passes through. Especially in Cruiser's vehicles.

The left set will work on your D44; that's the same set I have on mine. Only not as rusty. :yes: The right set, unless it came from a D44, will not work. There were two different reinforcement plates made, one for the 35 and one for the 44, and they are not interchangeable.

Austin, the two beefier looking shock mounting plates on the left in your picture is what I have on my 91. There are no reinforcement plates. The setup with the reinforcement plates on the 90 and below models is shown on the right side in your pic. Of course the parts manuals make no mention of this design change. :fs1: That drove me a little bit crazy for awhile setting up the D44..........

Part number J3170524 http://www.moparpartssource.com/p/JEEP__WRANGLERSPORT-RHD/BOLT-Flywheel/42464706/J3170524.html RockAuto and elsewhere..............

Most likely.

Sounds like your clip upgrade isn't the cause since the original fenders were cut out by the PO. You now need to see where you are as far as alignment specs. The linked thread below will show how to check your caster yourself, or bring it to a reputable shop for an alignment. Recommend the latter. See where you are, then we'll go from there. http://comancheclub.com/topic/45885-adjusting-caster/?hl=angle+finder

Booooo! :yes: For another dollar, you could have ordered the nice one.

This one is best: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Turn-Signal-Lever-Wiper-Switch-GM-22510144-/370620161173?hash=item564aaedc95&vxp=mtr Guess why. :rotfl2:

I have a couple but w/o intermittent wipers. Just about any 70's-90's -ish GM vehicle stalk will work. All have Saginaw columns like our MJs.

Intermittent wipers?

And that would be true ... IF the wheels were perfectly straight ahead when you took the measurements, AND if the wheels are aligned with exactly zero toe.. In reality, it's practically impossible to get them exactly What Eagle says is true. This measurement isn't super precise because of the factors mentioned above. It will only show if it's reasonably centered in the frame. And it appears your's is. I don't think I'd do a thing regarding an adjustable track bar. I was a bit over an inch shifted left after I lifted mine. Since you were fine with the original front clip and starting rubbing after installation of the newer style clip, I'd start checking the new clip sheet metal. How are the hood and fender seams lining up? Did you keep your original inner fenders?

The shock mounting plates (#5 below) will fit either axle. It's the reinforcement plate (#12 below) that's axle-specific.

Beautiful truck mate. Even with the obvious lack of chrome. :bowdown:

New XJ/MJ bucket seat pans are still available - expensive though.............

Don't buy one until you check the axle centering. On level ground with the front wheels pointed dead ahead, place a straightedge (2x4, long level, etc.) across the LF wheel fore to aft across the hub center and measure the distance from the straightedge to the inside frame rails at the front and rear of the left wheel. Repeat for the RF wheel using common points on the frame rails to measure to. The wheels should be equidistant fore and aft from the rails within 1/4". If over 1/2" difference I'd get an adjustable track bar on to center the axle.

Agree, I think it's timing caused by the distributor being indexed a tooth off. Pull the dizzy until it disengages and turn the rotor one tooth clockwise and reseat. If no joy, pull it again and turn the rotor back two teeth ccw and reseat. Also check for a worn dizzy drive gear and pinched wires on the sync sensor. .

it's the chrome. makes it all slippery and such in the breeze. :yes: :rotfl2: That sounds logical to me Pete. Best solution for excessive wind noise: Run a set of half-worn down BFG Mud Terrains.

Makes sense, and yes, why not? Compared to the one other MJ and several XJs I've had, my 91 MJ has the least wind noise of all. And the XJs were all 94 and above. Keep us posted.

If you don't have leaks, or excess wind noise, WTF difference will you be looking for?

Mid 90's is an open system. I thought we were discussing the OP's closed coolant system problems. :hmm:

Wind noise?