HOrnbrod

No, they are not. Do some reasearch before speculating.

There's nothing show in the MJ parts manual for anything sandwiched between the perch/spring or u-bolt/plate/spring. However I did sandwich a 3* steel wedge between the leaf and axle perch to correct my pinion angle. :thumbsup:

Don, I see that you went with the 5125 shock for the rear. Would that have been stiffer than going with 5100, or is a 5100 not available in the length and mounting specs you needed? Thanks I'm not sure about the valving difference between the 5100s and 5125s. It's possible the 5125s are stiffer. I called the Bilstein rep and those are the shocks he recommended according to the specs I wanted.

X2 on the BPEs. Especially in the rust belt.

OME discontinued the rear Nitrocharger shock I needed at the time, so I went with a set of Bilstein 5125s. I did like the harsher firmer ride at first, but it got old fast. And they seemed to get worse and to ride more like a buckboard the longer I had them on. It could be because I have 3+2 MT springs on the back, I don't know. I then found a substitute OME shock that would work for my application, and went back to OMEs. Where I will stay. :yes:

X2 on the OME springs and shocks. Unless you have tried them you will never know what they are like. I'll never use the Bilstein junk again. When installing the front coils, do one side at a time to prevent the axle rotating. I let the wheels hang as far as possible from the frame w/o disconnecting the control arms and got them in fine with a spring compressor. Disconnecting the sway bar helps. If you are going to use the WJ LCAs, now would be a good time for it. Again, one side at a time. The WJ LCAs (from any year) will provide much better handling because of their rigidity and larger bushings, and are a good upgrade over stock. And you will need an adjustable track bar; I got around 3/4" axle ahift when I did mine. Do the track install bar last. I used a Teraflex bar because it adjusts with the turnbuckle; no need to pull one end of it to adjust the axle back to center. When centering the axle, measure from the inside frame to the outside tire edge with levels and straightedges, not from the fender flairs to the tire edge.

Yeah, the USPS mailing options menu is a masterwork of deception. They must have contracted some civilian internet "specialists" to make their website deliberately confusing to draw in more $$ for the USPS. Bastids...........

Obviously lowered, rear bumper looks nonexistent or a rolled pan. The tail lights - no idea. Interesting.

Looks a little strange.

Then you are doing something wrong. Look at the small flat rate box prices below. I ship stuff up there often........

Huh? A USPS small flat rate box to anywhere in Canada is $21.95. The switches and bezel will fit no problem if disassembled.

I know the Truck-lite LEDs have a heated version for additional cost. I don't know about the rest of them since it's not needed down here. :dunno:

Oil rig? Anyhow OP, this is what they look like:

They are nice Brett. I've tried three different LED lamps so far; Truck-lites, GE Nighthawks, and the Quads. The Quads are the best all-around so far.

Again, what - do - you - have?? If it's not a Renix, and you have a Comanche, then you have a 91 or 92 Comanche. And they had the TCU in the same right lower dash location as the Renix models.

We bought a new 2015 JKU a couple of weeks ago because we gave the 2012 to our daughter and her new husband for a wedding gift. (http://comancheclub.com/topic/34929-2012-to-2015-wrangler-unlimited-jk-4dr/). I had installed Truck-lite LED headlamps in it and they were a great improvement over the stock incandescent junk. A candle would be an improvement. :yes: But there were some flaws, like the "X" pattern on both HI and LO beams at the far extent of where the left and right beams converged. While annoying, it didn't take long to get used to it given the 100% lighting improvement. The TL fit in the JKU headlamp housing was poor too; so loose I had to wrap them with electrical tape around the circumference so they didn't rattle around. But all-in-all, the TLs were fine and I thought I was happy with them. Until................. For the 2015 JKU, I looked around at all the other LED lamps and read reviews of each. The only lamp with 100% positive reviews I found were the new Quadratech LEDs. And the price was slightly better than the TLs, so I bought a pair. The first thing I noticed was the excellent fit in the housings. They fit snug and tight just like the crap stock lights did and needed no "filler". After the sun went down and and I adjusted the lamps vertically equal, I went for a test drive. They put out a much brighter output on both the HI and LO beams than the TLs, and the "X" beam convergence hotspot was non-existent. The horizontal cutoff was excellent, rivaling the E-code Hella housings I have on my MJ. The anti-flicker adapter harnesses included with the Quad lamps were more compact than those that came with the Truck-lites and fit in the housing easier. Also the time lag when switching from LO to HI beam and back was zero. The TLs took over a second to transition. The Quad lamps use the Phillips LEDs, supposedly the brightest and longest lasting of the LEDs on the market. These things are really good. If you have a JK or any vehicle that uses a 7" round headlamp, the Quadratech lamps are the way to go. Image Not Found

Agree. The D44 3.07s are $200-$225 max here because they for sure will need to be regeared. The 3.55s will go for maybe $100 more. I paid $225 for an MJ D44 with 3.55 gears. Came with a new Trak-Loc carrier too.

Are you trying to remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe bung? If so the wrench size is 7/8". The O2 sensor thread size is M18x1.5, same as a spark plug.

The coolant temp sensor for the dash gauge (or idiot light) is in the back of the head for both Renix and HO. The HO stat housing temp sensor is for the ECU.

That's why yours is betta. :cheers: I also punched holes in my tank skid before installing because of the deep water crossings I have to do occasionally at the mall. The little louvers in the factory skid get clogged sometimes.

The mid-engine turbo could really scoot! But the pedestrian R5 was a real POS, as was most everything Renault produced.

^^ This. The HO temp sensor isn't going to work for you. Even though the output to the HO ECU is referenced to ground, the resistance value of the Renix vs. the HO sensor is not the same so you will get a false reading. Also the signal polarity output from the HO temp sensor will be opposite that of the Renix sensor just like the HO fuel gauge rheostat. Adapt the HO stat housing threads to the single wire Renix sensor and you will be fine.

I ignored it. Don't think 2WD or 4WD matters with the symptoms.

Nice tank skid. :bowdown: Looks kinda like the Rocky Road one, only betta!