HOrnbrod

It's not the 96 cluster that's different; it's the difference between the HO column shift cluster with idiot lights and the full gauge cluster. Unlike the Renix clusters, the full gauge HO cluster has no provisions to mount the shift indicator. And they never made a full gauge cluster with a shift indicator for the 91 and up models. I wanted the gauges a whole lot more than knowing what gear I was in, so I used an aftermarket shift indicator by Ididit HERE..

I love this truck! Excellent job and tastefully done. Do do the rear Blazer sway bar - you will love it on that lowered beauty.

The best writeup I've seen is HERE.

^^ You are correct - missed that it's a Renix with the rad hole bung switch the OP was referring to. But I do use teflon tape on sensors and switches that ground through the shell, always have. Just not to many wraps.

I use it on all the switches and sensors. Just 2-3 wraps (no more) around the threads is all it takes.

:thumbsup:

You can ask your questions HERE Jim.

Possibly. I tried some differently rated temp sensors in the t-stat housing and it made little difference on the fan turn-on. Corrosion along the line back to the ECU affects the sensitivity. The switch works great when you need it, which is not all that often.

The temp sensor in the thermostat housing that turns on the 91-92 MJ aux fans is set for ~230*-240*; too high IMO. Since I run dual electric fans, I wanted a failsafe fan for cooling if my primary e-fan that replaced the mechanical went belly up. It's easy to add a dash switch that applies a ground to the ECU pin 31 so you can turn the aux fan on w/o turning the A/C on if you're stuck in traffic on a hot day and the temp gauge is getting a bit higher than you would like. Applying that ground is what the stat temp sensor does. The schematic below shows how to do it - the dashed lines with an additional dash switch is all you have to add. It's good piece of mind to be able to turn the aux fan on when you want and the mod does not trigger a fault code in the OBD1 system. And great job so far on your truck. Looks great!

Got a timing light? It would be good to see if your timing is advancing with the RPMs. Stick it on #1 plug wire and look at the timing marks on the timing chain cover at about 1200 RPM. It'll jump around a bit, but the light should be fairly steady @ 14* - 18* BTDC and advance slightly as you increase RPMs. You can't adjust timing, but at least you can see if the advance signal from the ECU is proper. I don't know if the key trick codes are valid on a 96 since it's a bastard OBD2 system. :dunno: When you say "swapped the distributor pickup coil with another one", are you saying you swapped the sync sensor assembly? Does your distributor look like the below?

Congratulations! :cheers: You are now part of the Department of the Navy shipmate. What's next?

Damn Ben, you made me cry a little bit. :cry:

Yes, it could very well be the sockets are a contributing factor; it's a common problem. But before you start messing with the sockets, verify that the brake light (or parking, back-up, turn signal, etc.) voltage is present on the socket wire when activated.

The NO (Normally Open) set of contacts close when you press the brake pedal to complete the brake light circuit. Determine the NO set with your ohmmeter. The other sets of contacts, both NC, supply the cruise control and torque converter lockup signals. If I were you I'd invest in a factory electrical manual for your specific year. Otherwise you're just guessing and flying blind.

Absolutely. :thumbsup:

I haven't tried it yet, but might the next time I need to recharge since my R12 stash is gone now.

You have eight wires on that plug. Pull the backup light socket out of the tail light housing, remove the bulb, ground the center hot wire, then go to the plug and test each pin to ground with an ohmmeter to ID the reverse light hot wire. Remove your temporary ground wire at the socket to verify continuity goes away when remove it. Would take ten minutes tops.

Would have been nice if you should had stated that in your first post. Is your rear body harness still intact? If so, you can pick up the backup lamp circuit in the connector behind the left kick panel.

The backup light hot wire comes from the AW4 auto transmission neutral safety switch (NSS). But since you don't have the AW4 anymore, the harness and connector for the NSS is probably hanging somewhere near your new manual transmission or up on the firewall as in the pic below. The NSS connector pinouts look like the below. The wire going to the backup lights is the brown/light green one on pin E. The lights are grounded behind the left tail lamp, which still should be intact.

An alignment w/o a printout of the toe, caster, and camber specs is completely unsat, whether they are "busy" or not. A printout isn't optional; that's part of the normal process for any reputable front end shop to provide.

They didn't on my 88. The 97 door seals anyway. Did you try rolling up your windows?

Download the Jeep parts manual specific to your year HERE and look up the part number, then do a search.

The 97 door seals will make a big difference in wind noise. So will these: http://comancheclub.com/topic/14834-lower-door-weatherstrip/?hl=weatherstrip

Here's a photo supplied by Gjeep. This is shown on his 92 MJ. It's mounted 2 inches up from the bottom of the vertical a-pillar seal. Image Not Found Hey G, I had these on my truck too. Didn't know what they were until I saw your pic. :yes: