HOrnbrod

Nope, looks like It's German. The WK has the Benz 3.0 L V6 diesel. The early WJ had the Motori diesel.

Coil packs on the 00-01 XJs.

It has everything to do with a Renix vs. an HO. On the HO MJs the 95-96 is pure PnP if you use the 1/4" spacer that comes with the booster. The 95-96 dual diaphragm booster/master was made to replace the 91-94 setup with basically no mods. No firewall massaging, the mounting studs are the same as the old booster, there is no bracket movement, no booster arm mods needed, the washer tank needs to move back about 1/2" (no problem), and the 95-96 also comes with flexible lines from the master. But I bent my own lines for better fitment. I guess. My real question is since you have done both mods on a Renix but not on an HO, is there any real difference in stopping power between the 95-96 and WJ setups?

......for the Renix I guess? Why is the WJ swap "the best"?

Try bypassing it temporarily at the firewall connector. It only takes a couple of minutes. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1018747 Do you have a lot of oil and grease on the starter from the oil filter adapter? Oil can get in there and gum up the starter motor brushes. Also try tapping the solenoid with a small hammer next time it's sticking - if that's what it is.

Next time it won't start in PARK, shift to NEUTRAL and try it. If it cranks and starts the NSS (neutral safety switch) on the AW4 either needs cleaning or replacement.

Then it wouldn't be any fun. :yes:

That's it - got that one wrong. :doh:

If Manning spent 1/2 the time on football as he does selling pizza, the Broncos would never lose another game. Is this the brother you have in the military Adam?

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm

:thumbsup:

Download the Electrical Manual here: https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=c40904cfda278a46&id=C40904CFDA278A46!115

That's how I installed the WJ LCAs on mine. On the ground, nothing jacked up, one side at a time snugged up, then run around the block and torque everything down. Had to use a pry bar on the 2nd LCA, but just easily to get the last bolt in.

The shims are still bolted between the frame LCA bucket and the clevis as shown. Be sure to check your caster after you get the LCAs installed. A BF-pipe wrench might help roll the axle into place.

Yeah its bit much.. that's why i plan on ditching it, picked it up for 50 bucks so it would have been silly not to get it! Flawed logic? :dunno:

Then you will be going from a 30T speedometer gear to a 36T speedometer gear.

Same here. I have Ford calipers and soft lines on the back and they threaded into the existing Jeep D44 hard lines.

No, not in the quarter. but I did make a few runs at the local 1/8 mile track when I first got the stroker in 05. Best time was 9.80 @75mph. 4.6L, AW4, 2WD, with street tires and a camper shell. AW4's and D35's suck for drag racing. Snapped two axles before installing the D44. :rotfl2: Have done a lot more mods since then, but the track is gone now............

:thumbsup:

This thread HERE explains it all. The alignment shop will check caster, but whether they adjust it or not depends if they have the shims in stock or not. The shims fit between the LCA and the frame and the amount of shims sets the caster angle. I don't trust alignment shops at all and set caster myself before going to them as described in the link. You should have shims behind your LCAs now, so when you swap the new WJ ones in, be sure to swap the shims over too as they came out. If your caster angle was okay it will stay that way as the WJ LCAs are the same length as the stock LCAs. Also get an angle finder and check the angle to be sure. Easy to do and you'll have peace of mind.

No ill effects at all. After getting them mounted, It was immediately apparent how much more solid they felt and how it handled on turns. It's also a great time to check out your caster with an angle finder over the upper ball joint flat and remove / add shims behind each LCA to get the caster as close to +7.5* as possible.

You will need two M14x2.00x110 (p/n 34201334) and two M14x2.00 nuts (p/n 52001162AB) for each WJ LCA. There's about at least an inch clearance on each side if you need to go with longer bolts if necessary. There are several threads detailing the shortening of the WJ bushing sleeves (I left mine ~1/4" sticking out past the rubber bushings) and the trimming of the outer arm frames to allow full droop. I installed my WJ arms backwards (The oblong bushing on the frame side) so there was no trimming necessary.

The speedo gear in the 91 housing uses a longshaft gear and the 96 housing uses shortshaft gears. If the wheels are staying the same size and you keep the same ratio gears, you can simple keep the existing longshaft gear in the 96 as is and be fine. If you are going with bigger tires an/or a different gear ratio then you will need to size out a new shortshaft gear for the 96 from the tables here: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm All the speedometer gears are physically the same except they are color-coded for the different tooth counts, and will press on to either the short or long shafts.

That's a great idea Jim. Adam would be in MJ heaven out there with you. :thumbsup:

Just the model external pump you are using. I can lookup it's specs on line. Thanks.