HOrnbrod

I have a couple of spare sets of the Synenergy relocation brackets and they work well. They move the sway bar down 1" and forward 1-7/16" for added clearance from the coils and Pitman arm. It also brought back the original bar end geometry when using the factory links, 10-20 degrees above horizontal. No drilling; the brackets use existing holes on the frame.

https://killerkitsch.wordpress.com/2015/08/26/geeky-wood-burners-fire-pits-by-burned-by-design/

A couple of XJ/MJ causes of parasitic amp draw I've experienced is the light staying on in the glove box due to a sticking switch, and also in a vanity visor due to another sticking switch. Normal amp draw reading with an ammeter in series with the battery positive terminal for our rigs with everything shut down is ~90ma.

Congrats mate. Love the Rubi 17" wheels, and the buckets - but whoops - they are gone now. But you gotta keep Mama happy. :yes: Very tastefully done, great mods, and clean, clean, clean. Well done. I love this truck.

Tell me more. 62mm HO throttle body and manifold on a Renix, si? Sounds like your TPS isn't functioning ............. Disconnect it and try again.

How do you like the General red letter tires on the pavement?

Looks like O'Reillys has them too: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DIS0/9959PK.oap?ck=Search_5257478_-1_1312&keyword=5257478

Jeep 5257478 ® crosses to Dorman 703-235. Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-DOOR-LOCK-ROD-CLIPS-FOR-GM-FORD-CHRYSLER-AMC-5-RIGHT-5-LEFT-SIDES-/121770289781

No sheite. That's why I said you will have to play with it. That's understood. OP, I'm still running the original Spal PWM V1 dual fan controller but it's NLA. I do have a spare in case it goes belly-up, but it's still doing it's job as it's supposed to do. You might want to search Ebay for a NOS one. http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=FAN-PWM-V3

Will the new electric fan be your primary fan? Mine is, and I have a 2-speed controller. I ended up with the LO speed to come on a 190*, and the HI speed at 215* after playing with it looking for the ideal settings. Been working well like this for years. If you have a 1-speed controller, I'd set it at ~190* to start and see how it does. You will have to play with it........

^^^ This. Look see what's #4 in this list. http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/the-ten-most-dependable-cars-you-can-buy-on-ebay-for-le-1640355343

Correct. The 91 VSS is nothing but a make/break reed switch that sends a pulsing sine wave signal to the speedo relative to the rotation of the transmission (2WD) or transfer case (4WD) output shaft. It's easy to check with an analog ohmmeter by jacking up the rear wheel, disconnect the VSS and place the meter across the two leads. The needle should deflect indicating the switch is opening/closing as the rotor moves past the sensor. Have not worked with the 3-wire VSS's yet, but it should be the same procedure except use a voltmeter to watch the pulses out. Or an o-scope. :yes:

Who else? OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer = Chrysler in this case. Here among other places: http://collectorsautosupply.com/ A mere $84/ea. :eek: Plus shipping.

This option is considerably better than the cheap and popular (because it's cheap) Chevy lowering shackles for MJ fitment. Check the dimension and bushing specs on the Chevy shackle. The Ford 150 shackles don't provide any lift as the shaky Chev shackle does, but if you need to stay at stock height, this is the way to go. OEM MJ shackles are still available for about X4 the price of the Ford shackles, and I'm all for OEM parts, but I'd have no problem using these to replace the stock MJ shackles.

Just a little tap will cave the plastic in. But if it was free, it's all good.

Did it weigh about 20 lbs like my JK bumper?

Some of the major LED headlamp manufacturers market them now with optional heaters, for a price of course. It's not a problem here though..........

Chopper got them installed and I posted up a pic for him. They look like they fit very well, damn well in fact. They would be fine like this as they fit better than the Chevy lowering shackles as is, but I'd add some appropriately sized stainless fender washers on the bolt between the spring bushing and shackle arms to straighten the arms and prevent possible binding. Nice job and you found an excellent substitute for another obsolete MJ part. Love to see all that lithium grease on all the moving parts too.

It needs mud flaps.

:rotfl2: :agree:

Bummer. If you haven't already, call the below. Hopefully someone might have one in the back room.......: http://www.carpartkings.com/walker-exhaust-exhaust-pipe-40401.html http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/40401/10002/-1 http://www.fourwheelerhb.com/showitem.aspx?id=111114&name=1984-1986%202.8%20L%20Jeep%20Cherokee%20Front%20Exhaust%20Pipe& Also search for AP Exhaust #94908 - same pipe.

Just a technicality, but Jeep transmissions were made by Aisin-Warner. Toyota was just one of their many customers. As well as General Motors, Ford, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Porsche, Saab, Audi, VW, Volvo, Hyundai, MINI, Lexus. etc.

^^ This. The 91-96 speedos are all the same electrically (just a trip meter difference) and will interchange and function throughout the OBD1 years. I used a 95 cluster in my 91 when I swapped it in to replace the idiot light cluster and it worked fine. Then swapped in my original 91 speedo which also worked fine. There is only one input signal connection to the cluster for all the OBD1 speedos, and the VSS doesn't matter. I "think" the 3rd wire on the 93? and above VSS is an input to the ECU only. But have not bothered to verify since the speedo has worked fine for me in several configurations.

The Hella housings use halogen H4 bulbs. What are you using? Halogen sealed beams? I have the 7" round LED Truck-Lites on my JK and they are great. So I tried the 200mm rectangular Truck-Lites on the MJ and was not impressed. Far less light output than the round ones. I also tried some GE Nighthawk LEDs and they were less than stellar also. I think it's more difficult to get a good light pattern with the rectangular housing. So I went back to the Hella e-codes.

This topic comes up at least once a year. People either hate them or love them. I'm in the latter group. My 91 came with the vent windows and they have never leaked, even running through typhoon car washes. I think the key is getting a good tight seal when you latch them shut. The original latch used soft metal rolled hinge pins and over time they get sloppy. I replaced them with slightly larger solid stainless pins and the windows seal good and tight. If the 93 windows look to be in good shape, stick them in and try them.