HOrnbrod

Care to elaborate Wade? Or is there a writeup elsewhere?

No, we have the same basic column; the pics I posted were for reference only. I should have taken actual pics of mine when I had it apart. It's just like the below, as it is for all the Jeep 3-spoke wheels. Part #12, the canceling cam where the horn grounding wire/spring comes through is the part I was referring to that slides up and down to adjust the turn signal canceling.

Well, figured it out in case this happens to anyone else. Pull the horn cap, remove the three Phillips head screws and take out the horn plate and insulators, then remove the steering wheel. In the borrowed pic below it's hard to see, but the horn ground pin sits in an elongated oval hole and will slide up and down about 1/2". My horn pin was set all the way to the top, so I slid it down to the bottom position. This is an adjustment to equalize the turn signal canceling cam so it turns off the turn signals at the same rotational points in right and left turns. Setting the horn pin in the lower position causes the horn ground plate, insulators, and horn cap retainer all to move a little cw when reassembled, which is what I wanted. Now I could turn the adjusting tube on the drag link to un-jam the TRE and drag link and rotate the tube adjuster about 3-1/2 turns to re-center the steering wheel. I've got plenty of adjustment now for the steering wheel in the future if necessary and the turn signals click off more equally turning right or left than before. Interesting little problem now gone. :banana:

Yeah Adam, I agree with the above. Because of the downward spiraling economy I don't ever see Youngstown ever coming back; it will only get worse. I can use a boxing analogy for this: When Boom Boom was fighting, Youngstown was still thriving and he went on to have a great career. He was always proud of his hometown. Then along came the next Youngstown hope, Kelly Pavlik, and you know what happened to him. The great pride for the city the working class once had is gone now and it's a good time to start somewhere else. Colorado is fine, but so are the southern states.

This is the one that you need for the alloy cover: Fel-Pro VS50522T I've been using one for years because I want to keep the oil in the engine, not running all over it. :yes:

Hmmm, you have given me an idea gogmorgo. I haven't been in my steering column for years and forgot how it looked inside, so I pulled up a pic of the upper innards. The horn cap retainer has three holes and can be re-clocked by 120* cw or ccw. Then the wheel should go back on either cw or ccw from it's present position. If I go the right way, I should be able to adjust the wheel back to center and un-jam the drag link adjustment tube, si? Now to figure which way I have to rotate w/o having to do it twice. :fs1:

No hate from me. Since you couldn't flip it quickly, you now have a new plan and when that doesn't work the plan will probably change again. Seriously, I can't take anything you say seriously. But good luck anyhow. :cheers:

Thanks Mike. But I think the TRE rod diameter threads are smaller in the 89's and below, like 20mm vs. 22mm. Correct me if I'm wrong. :doh: Been awhile since I had the wheel off. You are right, forgot about the horn button hole. Hopefully someone may have a better idea than cutting down the TRE. I just don't understand why it's happening. It shouldn't be......

I have a custom Buick wheel from a Skylark, and it's hub is the same as the stock jeep wheel. And the ZJ V8 drag link is the same length as the XJ/MJ drag link, just a little beefier. I recently replaced the steering gear, and always "index" the steering wheel when I do this by cranking the steering gear input gear to the exact center of the steering arc, then install the steering wheel as it should be for straight ahead driving. Then use the drag link adjuster for fine tuning, usually no more the half a turn.

Yep, same as mine. The threaded ends of the tie rod end and drag link are butting against each other inside the adjusting coupler, and I have no more adjustment to center the steering wheel. I've never seen this before. :hmm: Anyone have any ideas? The best solution I guess is to pull the tie rod end off the Pitman are and shorten it about 1/2". I have all the interchangeable beefier V8 ZJ steering stuff installed including the drag link, so there's nothing unusual in the setup.......

As in .008 or .080? But if you can eyeball the wobble on a dial indicator, it's bent. I've got the left side axle spares only now. Been waiting for the stockers to snap, so I can swap in the chromoly axle shaft kit I've had for a couple of years.

Gotta be 30 spline axles. OP, which side (L or R) is bent, and how do you know it's bent? I have a couple of spares.

The left-hand threaded tie rod end that connects the drag link to the steering box arm for the 1990 XJ/MJ and below is p/n 52000608. The same TRE for the 91 and up is p/n 52005739. Does anyone know what the difference(s) between the two is? Length? Thread? The reason I ask is that I have run out of adjustment on the drag link turnbuckle this TRE threads into (jammed) and can't quite center my steering wheel. So I'm hoping someone has one of each to eyeball and can determine if the difference is only length. OR, can someone measure the distance below and let me know which year TRE they are measuring? Then I can compare it to what I have. Image Not Found

I haven't tried these particular wheels, but I did run into caliper clearance problems originally with the Canyon wheels. A set of 1.25" Spidertrax spacers will fix clearance problems quite easily though, and look better too.

Temp Display: http://comancheclub.com/topic/5323-mercedes-ambient-temperature-display-in-an-mj/?hl=mercedes Euro Turn Signals: http://comancheclub.com/topic/7189-euro-side-repeater-lights/?hl=euro New Intake Dyno Results: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387

^^ You calling me a liar newb? :rotfl2: Which one(s) did you want to see pics for?

The covers are cheap if you want a new one. P/n J3213744. http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/Omix-ADA-COVER-CLUTCH-S-J3213744_p_124346.html

I remember Jeff (mjeff87) and Rick (xjs4ever). :thumbsup:

No idea for the Renix Adam. The only function in life for the HO ASD relay is to latch the fuel pump relay when the engine is cranking after it senses distributor shaft rotation. I don't know if a Renix has a similar setup, or even has an anti-rollover relay thats tied into the fuel pump circuit.

What's the equivalent of the HO ASD (Auto Shut Down) relay in the Renix stuff? Is there one or is there an anti-rollover relay? In the HOsw, the ASD relay sends a ground to the fuel pump relay when it senses the distributor shaft turning and allows the engine to start. Any such animal in the primitive Renix system?

http://comancheclub.com/topic/38053-early-xj-hand-brake-in-mj/?hl=hand+brake

No worries if a little rain gets in while you're driving as the hot engine will boil off the water quickly. And you don't want your vents directly over the distributor, throttle body, or other sensitive areas. When parking at night outside in the rain you can cover the vents with a couple of pieces of flexible magnetic sign material to keep the H2O out..

Wonder if Cool Pope Francis will go wheelin' when he's here? The Jeep Wrangler will serve as the Popemobile when Pope Francis tours the U.S. next month. Fitting in with Pope Francis’s vision of wanting more “frugal” cars as Popemobiles, The Vatican has confirmed a Jeep Wrangler will be used during the pope’s U.S. visit from September 22 to 27. The Popemobile will be similar to the one Pope Francis used during his trip to Ecuador in July. Unlike previous popes, Pope Francis favors open-air cars that allow him to interact with those on the roadways during his tours, a far cry from the past enclosed glass vehicles of traditional, bulletproof Popemobiles.

Yes, inside the right side door.

Your 88 MJ is fine example Eagle, but you are the real example. You have been a pillar of knowledge in the Jeep community for decades, and the Comanche Club is very fortunate you have settled in here for all of us to learn from. Thanks for all you do.