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onlyinajeep726

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Everything posted by onlyinajeep726

  1. Best advice, go to your local junkyard and pull one. $200 for the '88 one is ridiculous and the '95 will not be plug and play AFAIK. My local LKQ junkyard sells tilt steering columns for $29.99 + $7.00 core.
  2. Yea, replacement of the motor is far easier than swapping the entire door. When I went from electric to manual windows on my XJ, I didn't have a bit of trouble swapping them. I will likely put those electric motors in my MJ when I start converting everything to power.
  3. Very, very good idea here. I'm sure there are a few members here that would love you dearly for this lol.
  4. I concur with the above. Champion Coppers all the way, everyday. Make sure you check the gapping before you install and some antiseize on the threads never hurts.
  5. Bad connection to the fuel pump? There's a 6-prong black plug that powers the fuel pump and tail lights under the driver side kick panel (right where the parking brake slides up and down). Verify that is firmly plugged in and that the connections are not corroded. Looks like the one below (mine's labeled "MJ" upside down in my truck).
  6. Too expensive, that's my thoughts.
  7. Link doesn't work... :???:
  8. Had a bit of a scare today... went to go bring back my buddy's cherry picker and make a quick junkyard run and the truck wouldn't start... After testing the CPS, it determined it was bad (putting out only 0.3 VAC) so I got a new one for $33 and stuck it on. I don't know why it died all of a sudden, but it did.
  9. That looks awesome dude. Good job!
  10. You know what... what if this whole time he had the rare AMC-20 and was mistaking that for the 8.25? Maybe? Idk. :dunno:
  11. Didn't the '91-'92 MJs have a 8.25 as an option?
  12. If you were at the junkyard messing with steering columns, why didn't you just grab the entire column and swap your ghetto one out? Seems a lot simpler and will probably be less costly than a rebuild. Just my 2ยข.
  13. No, they're not rekeyable like that. You will have to swap the entire lock assembly.
  14. The C8.25 is not a bad axle. My guess is he messed up the D44 and swapped in the first thing he came across at the junkyard... At least he didn't put in a D35... When the BA-10/5 craps out, get a '94+ AX15 and call it good. If I could get my hands on a C8.25 rear setup for the MJ, I'd totally get it as it's a pretty strong axle.
  15. Good news! The gas gauge works fine... It was just really low on fuel. I had 4 gallons in there and being a 16 gal tank, I would have though that would mean a quarter tank, but noooo... So, filling her up this morning indicated that it was user error lol. However, even with that 4 gallons in there, I still put 15 gallons of gas in it.
  16. I paid $1500 for mine and it's straight as an arrow. The only thing wrong with it was the back bumper was smashed and the floor boards were a little rusted (and a couple of holes). I wouldn't sell it for 3 times that now... But it's come a long way since January when I got her...
  17. Hahaha, probably... Thanks, also.
  18. Loose steering? Grab the steering wheel tighter... :yes: Like these guys said, trac-bar and the fact that it's 25+ years old. The tie-rod ends are probably worn (assuming the PO never replaced them).
  19. Speedo cable square peg is smaller on the '86s. However, you can still use an '87 - '90 cluster. I've done so with much success. The warning lights in the info center on the left side of the cluster is also slightly different, but the sheet can be swapped to retain proper functionality.
  20. Got a lot of odds and ends taken care of since the last post... Stayed out in the garage till 1:00 AM last night to get stuff ready for today's test drive... I am excited to say, my Comanche has new life and can now move under its own power! . :MJ 1: . I filled the AX15 with Redline MT-90 and got the 242 filled with Dex/Merc. The drive shaft was taken to Fleet Pride this past Tuesday to get shortened. Eveything works with exception of a very important gauge... the fuel gauge. :fs1: Damn thing is stuck on 'E'. Not sure if it's the float or the potentiometer. But with that said, I've been extremely lucky thus far that everything has went as smooth and successfully as it has. Still sucks that I have to drop the tank again. :rant:
  21. If you're implying that the tachometer will be incompatible since it's a 2.8, that is not the case. Clusters used in 4.0 rigs will read correctly if put into a 2.8 rig since there are the same number of cylinders, thus the same number of pulses per revolution to trigger the tach.
  22. If swapping in a 2.5 is an option to replace the 2.8, then swapping in a 4.0 is not that much more work. I did it in roughly 4 months by myself, working on it a few hours a night here and there. It can be done and it's not has hard as one would think. Running all the wire harnesses is the same amount of work on 2.5 or 4.0. If I had to do another one, I would do it. But that's just my 2ยข...
  23. Yessir, my wife was home and took it in from the brown santa. Thank you again, you've been a big help. :bowdown:
  24. Take off your driver's side tail/brake lamp housings and refresh that ground wire. Also, while you're at it, refresh the instrument panel ground as per cruiser's mostly renix tips. Sounds like that is your issue to me.
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