onlyinajeep726

Ok, I just want to confirm... I had a 2.5L / AX4 / NP207 with D35 on an '86 LWB. I now have a 4.0L / AX15 / NP242 with D35 on the '86 LWB. So, I need to get my drive shaft cut down to 50 inches?

I'd make my own ground. Run a wire to the frame and fasten it good.

Given what I've just read in the link provided above, I would not mess with it either. Low power, unreliable and MPG leaves something to be desired. Pass.

Hahaha, about damn time!

Holy sheet... that chimp has some nuts hahahaha.

It's free... what more can I say? Well, you'll be spending gas getting it, but otherwise free haha.

Damn, that's a good idea. :rotfl2: We have a winner! :cheers:

Thank you! And thank you! Needless to say, I'm pretty stoked! :banana:

Man, I'm so close to being completed with this swap. I've managed to get a lot of stuff done over the past few days. Fuel lines installed, fuel pump swapped, coolant added, oil and filter added, A/C lines installed with new O-rings... you name it. Still have a bit to do. Shortening the rear drive shaft is one of them, then she can move under her own power. I realized that synthetic 75W-90 GL-4 gear oil is not cheap. Need that to fill the AX15... I hope everything is good with the trans. since I had no good way to tell if it worked before I bought it... Fingers crossed. Anyway, I got the 4.0 started today!! Ran a bit rough and shaky idle. Found out later by dumb luck that the vacuum line for the MAP sensor had pulled off. Put that back on, fired her up and she runs smooth as silk. SUCCESS!! So... video? I think so.

yeah you are you wanted to buy my factory turbine rims! Oh yea, I forgot about that... oops. :oops: I just went back to that picture and realized you had responded... Sorry about that haha. I got some turbines now though, but they don't look quite as nice as yours.

I don't much about the '86 4-bangers with A/C, but that looks stock to me. I will cross reference my manuals and books to see if they have some diagrams on how everything is supposed to be arranged.

Pictures for us to see? You've sparked my curiosity here.

I specified the rear because my experience is that the front windows get used a lot more, so they are usually not worth bothering with. That makes sense. I wasn't thinking about that. :doh:

A window handle from the rear door of a 4-door Cherokee. Why do you specify the rear? I pulled 3 off of a '96 XJ (two front ones and one rear one). All 3 are exactly the same. :dunno:

Welcome to CC man. I'm friends with you on CF, I believe.

Hahahaha, and I thought $12,500 was ridiculous... Right... I know Comanche's are rare these days but hot damn.

I'm glad you added this list... I completely forgot about the PSP and fuel rail. To the OP: If you decide to swap them, a fuel rail from a '91 - '95 is what you'll need. Those particular years have the return line port on the rail. It will bolt onto a '99+ intake. As far as the belt, you will likely need a 99.5" or 100" belt. Since there is a tensioner pulley on the PSP bracketry, you'll use that to tension it obviously. One problem I ran into with this is the timing chain cover. The HO belt routing has the belt run closer to the passenger's side and the timing light port is smack dab in the middle of where the belt needs to run. I found this out after I had everything bolted back up and had to use a dremmel to cut and grind part of it off. It's certainly not going to be a cake walk, but it can be done.

Here's something you can consider: http://www.jcwhitney.com/dual-trumpet-stainless-steel-116db-electric-horn/p2009000.jcwx?TID=8000000&origin=pla&JCW=1&JCW_SRC=PPC&003=27372719&010=19000G&gclid=CMTR-5rviLoCFUyd4AodQHcAkA

Yes, as a matter of fact, you can lol. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/154-0911-505-performance-turbo-system-for-jeep-4-cylinder/

You considered an electric fan setup, perhaps?

Yes, but the ports won't line up. IIRC (and I believe cruiser will step in if I'm wrong), to use the newer intake on the Renix head, you need to use the Renix manifold gasket, not the HO style. Other than that, the bolt holes line up fine. You will use the HO style throttle body, but use a '91 - '95 throttle body.

I'm sure it wouldn't hurt, just don't bank on it. I like the way the HO down pipe is routed. One of the few good revisions Chrysler did.

Dash removal: 30 minutes for a first time. 5-10 minutes for someone who has done it a time or two.

I don't think they came factory with 2 or 3 rows, but I'm not certain on that. I assume that's why there is a big aftermarket for it. CSF, GDI, Champion, etc. just to name a few. I could be, and probably am, wrong though. :dunno:

This is true and doesn't really make sense to me as to why, but what ever. Same thing holds true for the CPS vs CPS C101 bypass kit. The CPS is like $70 but the kit for the bypass was some where around $40 and came with the same CPS. :hmm: :dunno: :doh: