onlyinajeep726

I posted this a while back. Might be something to look into also. http://comancheclub.com/topic/39622-rockauto-newsletter-cummins-diesel-mj/

If you put an external slave bellhousing on an AX15 that came with an internal slave, you need to get the throwout bearing retainer too. This thing: External on left, internal on right.

You're right... I misread the Novak page. I really need to learn to read haha. To the OP, I'd still recommend a '94+ AX15 as those will be external slaved and larger input shaft.

I thought '90 was the last year for CAD? :hmm: I'm sure I'm mistaken, though... :doh: As mentioned though, all years will work. One more thing to keep in mind that hasn't been mentioned is for anyone who has ABS braking. If you get an axle from a non-ABS equipped Jeep, you'll have to do some modifications there to retain ABS. Not sure if ABS was ever used on an MJ, though... :dunno:

Buy a new fill plug, buy a LubeLocker gasket and get 2 quarts of synthentic 75W-90 gear oil. It's a simple process. Remove diff cover Let fluid drain Clean off old gasket/permatex Pop out old fill plug Reinstall cover with LubeLocker gasket Fill with gear oil until it just starts to come out of the bottom of the fill hole Insert new plug Done. Make sure you do all of this on level ground.

Damn those are clean...

I couldn't imagine how sh**y that would be...

None... direct bolt-on swap. '90 was the last year for the vacuum disconnect, so no worries there. Edit: '90 was not the last year of the CAD, but that doesn't make a difference as far as swap-ability.

Never knew you could shift without the clutch... Learned something new. :clapping:

:agree: 100%

Input shaft changed from 0.5" to just shy of 0.75" in '94 IIRC. All AX15's use 23 spline outputs shafts to mate to the transfer case and BA-10's use a 21 spline. You will have to find a transfer case to match or swap input gears. Easier to just swap cases IMO. As far as pilot bushings, if you use a later model AX15 on a Renix era 4.0, you'll need a '74 CJ with 304 V8 pilot busing (Dorman P/N: 690-042). Make sure when you get your AX15 to also grab the crossmember (only one for an AX15 will work) and the transfer case linkages. The flywheel on your Renix is the same between the 10 and the 15. Other than that, happy swap to you and good luck on your search for a 15. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np_nvg_input_gears.htm http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ax15.htm

The pukegoat is a the BA-10/5, not the AX5. AX5s were found behind the 2.1/2.5/2.8 engines. But anyway, it's a fairly straight forward swap and many, many write ups on it. Best bet is to find you a '94+ AX15 (since those are external slaved and have a larger input shaft) because it's the same amount of work and you'll be glad you did later... Hope this helps. http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=ba10+to+ax15+swap

Sounds like you've made your choice lol. Since you're not far from me, perhaps I can see it once it's installed. I don't have any plans as of now to lift my MJ, but I like the idea of this kit.

Sounds like a good idea in theory. Wonder how successful it is. I like the ease of installation factor though.

Ah, well in that case lol. I just know that both my XJ and MJ, I've done the '95/'96 XJ booster and the WJ booster and have retained the stock light switch with success.

Lots of patience... the old defrost cowl from the MJ I ended up snapping off cause I didn't care. But I had to be careful with my donor dash. I'm not going to even put those screws back as it has snap fittings and in reality, unless you roll it, where is it going to go? lol

Wasn't '91 kind of an odd year due to all the transitions? I've seen XJ's at the junkyard with both style pedal assemblies. I assume it was stock since they still had the single diaphragm booster...

You're quite welcome. To be honest, it's actually very simple to pull the dash. As I've progressed through my big overhaul/4.0 swap in my '86, I've pulled a dash three times. First, I pulled out the dash in my MJ, then I pulled the dash from a parts XJ I have (which I am using as a dash replacement) and finally, I pulled the dash from my donor XJ so I could get the dash harness and HVAC box. You can have it out in about 20-30 minutes. Hardest part is getting the defrost cowl vents cover off. It's tucked right up against the bottom of the windshield and you have like no room to turn a screw driver, especially on the driver side...

Here: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/ :thumbsup:

$900? Damn... if only my wallet was deep enough...

I WISH... haha. I'd drive the damn thing till the body rusted off around me. Up yours Prius drivers! :rotf:

IIRC, the exhaust ports are in the same location on all 4.0 heads. The difference is the way the downpipe fits and the EGR bung. That's why the big parts stores and manufactures break it up for '87 - '90 and '91 - '01. But you can get rid of the EGR system or modify a later model header with a EGR bung. You would also have to buy an HO style downpipe. I pulled mine from a junkyard. As far as fitment on the head, it'll work, so that opens up some options for you.

I thought the ignition coil was not engine specific (4 cyl. or 6 cyl.), i.e. the ECU/PCM tells it when to fire?

Ok guys, I got it in last night. I had to clean out the hole a little as it was rusty. After that, I used a dowel and rubber hammer and got it in gradually. Thanks for the suggestion ftpierce.

The only thing I was able to identify out of all that random stuff is an ignition coil (or what looks like one anyway...)