onlyinajeep726

Sounds like the symptoms of a vacuum leak, which would imply the diaphragm inside the booster is torn... As far as the altered rod, stick it in the bottom corner of the box it came in and cover it with any plastic baggies it may have come with... They don't generally pull the item out when you return, they just open the box to make sure that right thing is there and that it's not the old part.

I have a caliper and I measured the bushings I received. They measure .746" ID and 1.050" OD, just as was suggested that I need. However, due to the strange angle, I am unable to measure the ID of the crankshaft hole (I already tried). The 'fangs' of caliper just aren't long enough to reach down in the hole. As I stated above, the 4.0 I'm using was bolted to an automatic, so no previous bushing/bearing... Yes, RockAuto also listed that as compatible with the following information provided: NATIONAL Part # PB77HD Heavy Duty; Bore=0.751", Outer Diameter=1.056", Width=0.88" As compared to the Dorman part I got, P/N 690-042: Inside Dia: 0.754"; Outside Dia.: 1.057"; Length: .877" I know the measurements on the listing and on the box are probably slightly off, so I measured it with my caliper (as seen at the top of this post). I put one of the bushings I have in my freezer (in hopes it might contract ever so slightly). The inside of my crankshaft has a light amount of surface rust, so I'm going to wire wheel it clean. I guess if I still can't get it in after that, I'll order this highly sought out PB77HD that everyone seems to have success with.

I'll be a little more specific, my 4.0 is from '90 XJ that was bolted to an AW4, so no previous pilot bushing. My AX15 came from a '96 XJ, but I bought it off of a guy and it was already removed from the XJ. Since I'm using a later model AX15 with a Renix era 4.0, research has led me to conclude the bit about the '74 CJ 304 V8 bushing. The clutch kit I ordered (hasn't arrived yet) is the LuK kit for an external slaved AX15. Now that I have been a little more clear... lol So does the pilot bushing install like seen below? Also, do you use both a pilot bushing AND bearing or just one or the other? I've very confused on this part.

Ok guys, trying to mate an AX-15 from a '96 XJ to a '90 XJ 4.0. As per write ups and answers from the internet and CC, I was told to get a pilot bushing from a '74 CJ with the 304 V8 5.0 as that would have the correct inner and outer diameters. Perhaps I don't quite understand the workings of a manual, but as far as I know the pilot bushing slides over the input shaft of the transmission and also, the bushing is supposed to fit inside the opening of the crankshaft. Correct? Well anyway, the bushings I got from RockAuto fit over the transmission input shaft but does not fit inside of the crankshaft... The part number I got is Dorman 690-042 and measures .756" ID x 1.056" OD (as stated on the box, actual measurements are .746" ID x 1.050" OD). Did RockAuto send me the wrong thing or is there else wrong?

To be honest, I'm not sure what the condition of the AW4 is because it was pulled from a local junkyard about 4 years ago to replace the previous AW4 in my buddy's XJ. He stripped reverse and overdrive gears in the first one. His dumbass step dad pulled the AW4 in question from some random year XJ in the junkyard and we couldn't ever get it to work with the '90 wire harness (plugs are different) so we couldn't verify if it worked past first gear. I'm sure it's fine and I've since learned that any year AW4 can be made to work with any year vehicle that it was optioned in, it's just a matter of wiring. Are you implying that you want it? ;)

Yes! This is friggin schweet!

That's pretty rad! You or Automan should get it!

Ok, thanks Jim!

Ok, I have few questions that I hope some of the MJ gurus here can answer to aid me in my project... First off, will the dust shields from an AW4 auto work for an AX15 manual? Next, can I easily eliminate the AW4 TCU wire harness since I'm going to an AX15? I know that you have to jumps some pins (fake out the ECU for the NSS), but could I jump the needed wires and eliminate the rest? Don't really want to run the TCU under the dash if I can get around it. Finally, will my clutch master cylinder that served for the AX4 work with the AX15? I figure it will but I'd like someone who knows to verify this.

Yes, torque convertor should be the same between the two. Where the two get interesting is the rear section...

Phase III... the rebuild. Phase III officially started today. I've removed my 4.0 from my donor today, but unfortunately not without a few broken pieces/parts. Managed to snap the O2 sensor clean off, as well as snap the back of the starter solenoid off and I broke the barbed elbow for the return line on the power steering pump. Minus that, removal went mostly well. Took longer than it did when I removed the 2.5 from the MJ, but I figured it would given the longer drivetrain. Got the AW4 separated just a few minutes ago and the Renix flywheel that I got a couple of months ago is now sitting comfortably bolted to the crankshaft. I ordered my LuK clutch kit and pilot bushing yesterday from RockAuto. Should be here in a few days and then I can button my new drivetrain together. My biggest concern here is what to do about the automatic transmission control unit. I know you have to bypass the NSS so the ECU will allow it to start, but where I'm not so sure is whether or not I need to keep the TCU plugged in under the dash or if I can remove that entirely. Gotta research that... Luckily, as far as the bits that I broke upon removal, I have an extra starter, O2 sensor and my old PS pump from when I did my stroker swap and had to convert to the HO PS pump for the '99+ intake mani. Still pisses me off though haha. Who's ready for me to shut up and just move on to the pictures? lol

I think the OP was talking about the GM2.8L lol. In which case, I'd go 2.5L hands down. My '86 will have a 4.0 once I'm done with everything haha. :yes: OP never specified. Devil is in the details. Rob ;) This is true ha. VM > GM.

I think the OP was talking about the GM2.8L lol. In which case, I'd go 2.5L hands down. My '86 will have a 4.0 once I'm done with everything haha. :yes:

Fix it up and swap it in the MJ hahaha. That would be quite the conversation starter, especially when it blows up lol.

Get a fuel rail from a '94-'95 XJ. It'll bolt on and line up just fine on the '97 intake manifold and has the FPR with return on the rail. It's what I did for my stroker setup in my '88 XJ. This is what I did to extend the steel fuel lines... Earl's fittings to -AN fittings with barbed ends from Summit Racing. Good for up to 50psi. See below...

Some progress has been made... Got my donor XJ pulled over here about a week or so ago. Started the tear down by getting things separated from the engine so it can be pulled soon. Also pulled the various things needed to swap into the MJ. So far I've pulled the engine harness, dash harness, cruise control harness and vacuum motor, HVAC box, steering column and steering box. On the MJ, I painted the engine bay satin black. Looks 200% better. Anyway, I've gotten the engine harness placed, relay center bracket fastened down, HVAC box installed and steering column installed. Next will be the steering box, cruise control harness, dash and dash harness. Also I will be swapping the coil springs as I am told the 2.5 and 4.0 use different spring weights. Anyway, time for pictures...

:agree:

United We Stand!

Yea, just southeast of Raleigh, about 20 minutes past. Clayton, NC. Ever since I bought my MJ, I see them in the area all the time. Black LWB, lifted light blue SWB, dark blue LWB, charcoal grey LWB, white SWB, etc. Camo would definitely stand out.

Are you serious!? $400... hahaha, right... :shake:

Time for a new distributor then... As far as I know, the dizzy assembly is not servicable/rebuildable. I'd find out why the oil pressure is high like that... Seems like a lot, but I could be wrong.

Jim or the new owner: Take some pictures of that hidden winch assembly/mount! I want to clone it for a my XJ!

Anybody else notice that it has a winch hidden behind a stock bumper? Friggin' sweet! I'd like to know how it's mounted and if that's stock or and aftermarket mod.

It's likely what you alluded to... the floater is getting hung on something. When I replaced my fuel pump on mine, I had the same issue. Take it back out and reposition it. It would be beneficial to remove those check valves on the topside of the tank so you can look into the tank once you get the assembly back in position to verify the floater can move freely.

What do the "Ravine" rims look like?