onlyinajeep726

Ok guys, I know this probably comes up fairly often, but I'd like to get the A/C in the MJ up and running the best I can ...on a budget. When I did the engine swap in my MJ last year, I retained the factory A/C stuff in hopes of eventually having it work. All components came from an '88 and '90 XJ donor. The majority of the line ends have had the O-rings replaced. The exception is the lines that run to and from the expansion tank. At the condenser and up to the firewall, and on the compressor side, it's got new O-rings. I've been reading up on R-12 to R-134a conversions, but from what I've gathered, that requires new hoses, a new dryer/receiver/whatever it's called and a complete flush of the system, then after all that, it's 20-30% less cold than R-12. My dad has two (I think 12 ounce) cans of R-12 from the early '90s. Would it be easier and more cost effective to charge it with R-12? Also, would 2 cans even be enough from dead empty? I want A/C since the humidity in eastern NC is retardedly high. What else should I do or check before I get to work on all this? I don't want the R-12 (or R-134a) to leak out (and into the atmosphere), especially considering R-12 is so hard to find and not even legal for me to buy. :bowdown:

What mnkyboy said. By the way, I like those factory rims. I did mine that way too coupled with the chrome rings.

Swap the TBI intake mani onto the donor motor. Everything else should be the same.

That's some BS. Ban him from this forum. No need for folks like that.

Some relevant information here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/39539-links-for-25l-to-40l-swap/ I put a 4.0 in my '86. Here's the build thread: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/86-comanche-dd-159524/index4/#post2542580

Have you done the sensor ground upgrade and C101 elimination? I used to have it randomly on my '88 XJ, even after the stroker swap. Did the ground and C101 tip from Cruiser's Renix tips and so far, it hasn't happened anymore.

:drool: :drool: :drool:

My buddy has a set of these on his '99 XJ... Fitment is not an issue (for him at least). They are bright and he loves them. If I didn't have 1,582,173,134 other things to better spend that kind of money on, I'd get these in a heartbeat.

You should be able to swap the speedo between clusters since it's purely a mechanical device (no electronics on it to adapt).

Oh wow... poor YJ...

x3 on the FP test...

Thanks!! I am going to be checking everything. I recently installed the RE1660 extreme HD trac-bar. Noticed after the trip that the jam nut was free spinning (apparently a common issue with these). I've also got to get LCA axle mounts welded on because I bent the crap out of one smashing into a rock. Lots of work to be done to the front end lol.

Perhaps you've got some current back-feeding through the grounds causing the stereo to falsely trigger? It's got to be something simple. Wires crossing or rubbing somewhere.

Got a question that I'm hoping you gurus can answer... My XJ started back with the lovely death wobble after a recent wheeling trip. I know my caster was all jacked up before, but there was no DW. I ordered adjustable UCA's to alleviate the issue (hopefully). Question I have is, for an XJ with 4" of lift up front, what are the correct measurements for the LCA's (bushing eye to bushing eye) and for the UCA's? Right now, I have the Rusty's fixed LCA's with the bend and I purchased RE's adjustable uppers. P.S.: I know this is a forum about MJ's, but y'all are far more helpful than CherokeeForum haha.

Congrats!! Makes me want to lift my LWB MJ!

Sure it's not the fuel pump? Possible you sucked some junk off the bottom of the tank when you were wheeling. I'd go to your local parts store and rent a fuel pressure gauge and test to see what your pressure is on the fuel rail. Should be ~31-32 psi with the vacuum hose connected to the FPR @ idle and ~40 psi with the vac hose disconnected @ idle.

Actually, yes lol. I'll have to update this pretty soon, but just to name a few things that have been done since February: I've swapped in bucket seats from a 4-door XJ (I know these aren't the preferred seat, but it's what I have for now till 2-door buckets can be had). I have a front drive shaft in my possession. Unfortunately, it has a flange adapter on the CV end that I'll need to figure out how to swap out. Also have a CB radio to install. Just recently, the high-pressure hose for the power steering got replaced since the old one busted at the crimped end. I'm sure there's a few things I'm forgetting, but this is just the stuff off the top of my head.

The shift lock cable he's talking about refers to those with an automatic transmission. It connects to a lock lever inside the steering column that unlocks the shifter when the key is turned to the "unlock" position. If you have a manual, ignore this.

Yea, it will come with a new key. Try the graphite suggestion that Jim suggested to get the current key out. I'd still recommend replacing the cylinder before too long. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=951083&cc=1181483

Ignition cylinder is about to give up the ghost. Time you replace it.

CPS can cause intermittent stalling and no start conditions.

Need more info... 2.5L, 2.8L, 2.1L TD?

Yea, I read about that too or just finding a Waggy tail light harness, as those are Plug & Play. But, I've been looking at my XJ and remembered that I have a factory installed Reese trailer wire convertor. I will just use that I guess. I've got the JCR steel tail light boxes recently and am doing LED STT lights.

Anybody??

I'll check them, but I just had them out last year and they were fine then, before that, they were already 7 years old. Thanks for the heads up though.