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onlyinajeep726

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Everything posted by onlyinajeep726

  1. onlyinajeep726
    Well duh.... hahaha. I'll take some better pictures tomorrow... I'm about to head to work till late. I guess the biggest thing I'm concerned about is having to remove the rear bumper. That would be a PITA considering the tire carrier. Also, there appears to be a few unibody tie-in brackets that look rather difficult to get to.
  2. onlyinajeep726
    Does anybody have any insight or experience removing the factory, integrated trailer hitch from an '88 XJ? It's the kind that bolts to the rear bumper, in addition to the frame rails (see below). I want to put a standard 2" Reese hitch and use a drop shank to accommodate my lift, but I'm kind of stumped on how to remove this one.
  3. onlyinajeep726
    The pictures I provided are from when I put in my stroker in my '88 XJ. It uses all the Renix stuff. I adapted the TPS to work and everything else.
  4. onlyinajeep726
    All the '91+ intake manifolds will accept an HO fuel rail (AFAIK). I have the '91 - '95 fuel rail on an '00 intake. And yes, anything before '96 has a supply and return line. '96 is the first year to use a returnless fuel system. (In reality, the fuel system on the '96+ has the FPR and return within the tank. The running pressure to the rail was also increased in this year.)
  5. onlyinajeep726
    Up through the '95 models (on XJ's), the fuel system had a supply and a return to the fuel rail. You can adapt the two-line HO fuel rail to work with the Renix fuel lines, but you'll have to get the appropriate compression fitting. I used some Earl's fittings from Summit. You'll need two compression fittings and two -AN barbed fittings. Also, you'll need some fuel injection hose, some fuel line hose and some hose clamps. There is a significant difference between injection and line hose. Also, notice the two types of hose clamps and their location. Fuel line-to-rail adaptation. Steel hardline-to-softline adaptation. Earl's compression to -AN fittings from Summit Racing. Good for up to 50psi. Not the best picture, but this is a bracket I made to keep the fuel lines as far away from the exhaust header as possible.
  6. onlyinajeep726
    The years may not be exactly right, but you get the idea... Your water pump will still be turning the same way regardless of how the belt is routed between these two configurations.
  7. onlyinajeep726
    $10k?!?! :eek: Geezus!
  8. onlyinajeep726
    Need to be more specific... 2.5L/AX4/5? 4.0L/BA10 or AX15? There are differences...
  9. onlyinajeep726
    Nice! Glad to hear it. :thumbsup: Keep us posted.
  10. onlyinajeep726
    Best way to fill up the closed system is pull vacuum on the whole thing (collapses all the hoses and in theory, removes all the air). They make a device that pulls the vacuum, then using the now void system, pulls the next coolant in. It's quite nifty, actually.
  11. onlyinajeep726
    That's not a bad color, actually. As a matter of fact, I really like it.
  12. onlyinajeep726
    Wasn't aware these existed, either. Cool find indeed. :cheers:
  13. onlyinajeep726
    Still running like poop?
  14. onlyinajeep726
    Don't do that. Biggest reason is headers are not designed to work like that. Given the fact that most of our Jeeps are running the stock, cast manifolds that are already prone to cracking due to age and stress, wrapping it will just exacerbate the issue. Plus, only ricers do that crap. As far as the T-stat... 195°F is the correct one to use. A properly functioning and well maintained system should run right around 210°F +/- a few degrees regardless of ambient outside temperature. OP, what's the color of the coolant in his system? Is it dark and murky? If so, my first suggestion would be to grab some coolant system flush, Prestone or equivalent. Follow the instructions for the deep clean procedure. Afterward, flush it really well with a garden hose, put 50-70% antifreeze and the rest distilled water back into the system. Run it for a few days and report back.
  15. onlyinajeep726
    Sweet, that's what I was thinking that I had read somewhere. Funny though that I just swapped my stock UCA's and the 27+ year old rubber is still tight and the Rusty's ones are shot in less than 7 years... If only rubber bushings were that good now.
  16. onlyinajeep726
    You won't know that till you pull it, but it shouldn't matter when buying a new one. Yours is most likely a Bosch unit (all the Renix ones I've seen have been so far). Go with the links I posted about, you can't go wrong.
  17. onlyinajeep726
    I appreciate the reply and I am aware that the poly bushing will transfer more vibes, but at the moment, I just need to not have it wander about all over the road. Just need to know if they will fit or if Rusty's got a proprietary sized bushing.
  18. onlyinajeep726
    IIRC, there is suppose to be an O-ring or two on the end that seals the line into the opening. It's common for the O-rings to become stuck within the inlet/outlet and it's plausible they could have simply fallen off upon removal of those lines.
  19. onlyinajeep726
    Any of you guys have experience running Rusty's Offroad fixed LCA's? The rubber bushings are shot on each end on both my arms. I purchased a master bushing kit from Energy Suspension about two years ago and only put the UCA ones in. The kit is designed to replace the bushings in stock arms, but I was wondering if anyone knows if these poly bushings will fit in the Rusty's LCA's? I don't particularly want to buy four rubber bushings at $12/ea + shipping from Rusty's if these ES poly's will do the trick. I just want to help with on-road manners for the time being before I go long arms.
  20. onlyinajeep726
    Booster bad? When you press the pedal, is there a slight rise in engine RPM accompanied by any air leak sound? That was my problem and I swapped in the '95/'96 XJ dual diaphragm booster and MC.
  21. onlyinajeep726
    Write ups for what? Swapping an AX4/5 to the AX15? I don't know any off hand, but I'm sure it can be found via Google or something. Did you pick up that Waggy front clip at the same time?
  22. onlyinajeep726
    Currently the issue with my XJ... the bushings on both ends of my LCA's are shot lol.
  23. onlyinajeep726
    Yea, it's quite sad. There's a trick to replacing that gasket, but I'm still waiting to learn it lol.
  24. onlyinajeep726
    Let's just take the engine out lol. Come on up to my garage, we'll get her done.
  25. onlyinajeep726
    Tighten the manifold bolts top to bottom. The Renix years are bad for those loosening up over the course of 25+ years. That's where I would start.
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