onlyinajeep726

Once again, you have taught me some invaluable information Pat. That's really good to know. Thanks. :bowdown:

I don't think vertical or horizontal matters. The freon is going to flow through regardless.

Clogged cat could be the culprit. Time to do one of Cruiser's Renix tips, #16. 16. Vacuum test for exhaust restriction Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction.

Here you go. You can have it out in 20 minutes. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/

:agree:

'84 - '96 XJ '86 - '92 MJ '97+ XJ with some modifications. And on a side note, if the MJ in your avatar picture is yours (my assumption is that it is), then your grille is upside down.

Or your bulb was blown well before you owned the MJ. It's just a silly light.

Does anybody know where I can find just the O-rings for the hydraulic lines that run to the power steering box? I have a slight leak coming from the return line fitting. I replaced the high-pressure line a few months back (which came with a new O-ring for it). Now I just need one for the low-pressure side.

Sub'd.

Hope you didn't burn up your starter driving it like that... Replace the ignition lock cylinder... probably just went bad after all these years. Here's a writeup: http://comancheclub.com/topic/18991-ignition-lock-removal/

I'm not sure what the minimum fluid capacity should be for the over flow bottle, but I'm sure anything above a quart should suffice. The later model XJ bottle holds over half a gallon but as long as you have everything sealed good and the rest of the system filled correctly, the reserve in the bottle shouldn't fluctuate much. As far as the cover you're referring too, it's just the stock one that I cut and modified. I had to move the relay center over by about two inches towards the passenger fender well to accommodate the later model XJ bottle. I also had to relocate the ignition coil. I wanted mine to appear mostly stock. See below: I anchored the bottle in place with some bracket I had laying around...

It's a shame you can't make it man... I got the XJ back on the road as of about two weeks ago. It would be pretty awesome to see some MJs with us at Uwharrie as well. If by some chance you can make it, just PM me or post in this thread. Perhaps we can set something up at a later date to wheel or just meet.

Keep your closed style radiator if it's in good shape and functioning properly. No need for an added expense on newer radiator with filler neck. Just buy this Moroso filler neck from Amazon and splice your upper rad hose like so:

Good idea on adding a schrader valve. Keep us updated on what's going on and if the TPS is the problem.

Oh yea... about that... I completely forgot about that on the 2.5. :doh: There is no schrader valve as there is no fuel rail. The way to check fuel pressure is to tie in a T-fitting in the fuel line after the fuel filter and measure it that way. A PITA, I know... A little insight to what I did to double verify my pump was in fact really the culprit was to listen to it as my truck started to die. I could hear the pump clicking on and off till it finally just stopped (and with it the engine choked and died).

Change out the TPS. If that doesn't do it, check that your fuel pump is putting out the required 14-15 psi. May be a clogged fuel filter or dying fuel pump. Your symptoms sound eerily similar to the problem I had with my 2.5L. Changing the TPS was my first step but it did nothing. Ended up being fuel pump stalling out. New one solved my problem.

Yes, you can go without.

Well, to retain the EGR, you'll have to modify any new header (except for maybe the PaceSetter) otherwise you're pretty much limited to a stock replacement. There is a spot in the '91+ downpipe for the O2 sensor, so that won't be a problem.

Any year header will work, but if you get one from a '91+, you'll also have to change out the downpipe.

Yes, any overflow bottle will work as long as it holds enough and can syphon the fluid from the bottom.

Check the vac hose from the TB to the MAP sensor. They like to crack with age causing a bad vacuum with to the sensor. The MAP directly controls A/F ratio.

Dude!! That's an awesome Comanche and CJ!! :bowdown:

Welcome to the disease! :cheers:

Do it man! Get a small loan from the bank.

RockAuto. http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carcode,1316023,parttype,786,d,1998_JEEP_WRANGLER_4.0L_242_cubic_inch_L6_MFI_S_OHV_Shift_Boot.html I know it's for a Wrangler, but it's what I used on my MJ and works great.