onlyinajeep726

'84 - '96 for sure. '97 - '01 suspected.

Just pull the cowl from a few XJ's at the JY and pop the nozzles out of them. Swap 'em into your MJ. Easy peasy.

Like so? :yes: Thanks for the idea Pat, fits perfectly and it seems it should read accurately. Brilliant! :rock on:

Yea, it's a later 0630 head. Previously it had an earlier 0630 head (think it was from a '96) that was drilled and tapped, but with a plug in it. I have a spare 4.0 that also has the 0630 head and it's a '98 engine, no hole. Benjy, I think that's it's a pair of Kleins but I'm not for sure. I found them a long while ago at a junkyard and I've just held onto them. Yellaheep, I was worried about the exact thing you said here. I don't see how the fluid will really flow past the probe ends. I need to rethink this somehow. I wonder, could I relocate one of these two senders into the side of the block, where the drain plug is, or would that not give me a correct reading for the gauge and/or fan switch?

So, in switching heads, I no longer have a place to put the temperature gauge sending unit. Was wondering if this was an acceptable way to correct this problem. My biggest concern is air pockets throwing off the readings. Anyone have some insight?

Awesome! Seems a shame to tear down that Dodge though... I like those old Rams just about as much as the J10/20's.

Priming is a good idea, yes, but not necessary. You can prime it by turning it over with the coil unplugged to prevent starting. By "turning gears in there", do you mean the camshaft gear? Because you can't turn that without turning the crankshaft. But the pump's shaft does have to line up correctly to properly mate with the end of the distributor (since that's how the pump gets power from the camshaft).

I'd highly recommend the one piece Felpro or Victor Reinz rubber gasket. You'll need to RTV the corners and the section where the timing chain cover and block merge, but other than that, the gasket will be your best friend.

I'd get the CSF 2 or 3 row. Also, while you're there (since the AW4 heating was mentioned), get a B&M 70268 transmission cooler. You'll be glad you did.

That's why I set it so far out. Plus my XJ is still without head.

Yea, that's a bit steep... I'll stick with the Spicer 5-760x's. Could buy a lot of those as spares if/when the break compared to the CTM's.

I was under the same impression, but I admitted I never done this kind of swap. Glad someone here with actual experience with this kind of thing was able to chime in. Thanks Pat for clarifying. :thumbsup:

You'll have to do some research to make the '95 AW4 work in your Renix. I've never done it but I've heard it can be done with a little rewiring. That's the most crucial part. As far as drive shafts go, you'll need to get your rear drive shaft shortened. Measure what it needs to be AFTER you swap in the new drive train. No one can give you a definitive length for your rig, but a educated guess. Other than that, the nonessential stuff to swap in when you're not in major need of your MJ is a front axle and front drive shaft. Here's some detailed information about the AW4: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

I'd stick with Spicer for U-joints, ball joints, etc.

Uwharrie wheeling and camping trip May 30th - Jun 1st. Whoever is on facebook, add me and I can add y'all to the event I set up. www.facebook.com/onlyinajeep726

Uwharrie wheeling and camping trip May 30th - Jun 1st. If y'all are on facebook, add me and I can add y'all to the event I set up. www.facebook.com/onlyinajeep726

Haha, have fun with that, Ben. :chillin:

I'm indifferent to the angry eyes things. Certainly not a big enough "mod" to consider completely horrendous like some stuff I've seen on Jeeps and other trucks. It could be worse.... See below: I think you get the point... Don't ask me what my search criteria was that I used to find some of these images... I don't want to get labeled. ;) :teehee:

Links to this JC Whitney catalog? May be wanting to convert mine sometime just for the looks.

Well, as long as that's the case, then I'm fine with that. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't an indication of a major problem.

That's what your avatar picture is showing, correct Cruiser?

You've got a very basic remote start system then. Mine cranks fairly fast, but my remote start system keeps cranking till it senses the engine is running by tying into the tachometer circuitry. It also does timed starting if I didn't have a way to hook into the tach wire.

Thanks everyone!! By the way, my head should be here Monday, then the ol' girl can be back on the road soon.

Alright, thank goodness. :banana: