onlyinajeep726

Ah, that's good to know. That would be a cool option to have.

No, it won't. You would have to swap to the WJ booster as well. Even if you could, there would not be an appreciable difference in brake when retaining the single diaphragm booster. The reason people swap to the '95-'96 XJ booster or '99-'04 WJ booster is because they're both dual diaphragm, which is the major advantage. If you want to make the most of your brakes, I would grab a '95-'96 XJ booster and a master cylinder from a '99-'03 Dodge Durango. The booster, as said before, is dual diaphragm and can be modified to work in the older XJs and MJs, and the master cylinder has a larger piston inside than the XJ ones, pushing harder on the fluid, thus increasing braking. This modification, in theory, should increase braking potential by 120%. Tons of write-ups on the booster mod. Here's the skinny on the Durango MC:

PTO? :dunno: Forgive me... I'm a tad exhausted from today's events lol.

Yeah Bo, thinking the same. You need the track bar and drag link as close to parallel as possible as in the pic below. You don't have a pic wide enough to see the total relationship. The geometry looks wrong from what I can see due to the dropped Pitman. You can kind of see the drag link and trac-bar in the picture below. Definitely not parallel as you and I have suggested.

I tried this on a spare AW4 I have and did not feel those extra spots. I had 1-2, 3, D, N, R, P. Maybe you've got an anomaly.

Nice truck, but how do you misspell (or in this case, use an entirely different word!) the sub-model when it's spelled out in the side of the truck!? But aside from that, I'd be on that in a heart beat, but alas, it's on the wrong coast.

Thanks dude!

The RE johnny joint will in no way fit into the RC trac-bar. The RC bar itself is something like 0.75" hollow steel bar. The RE extreme bar is solid and 1.25" thick. You can buy a JJ from Currie Enterprises, but you'd have to find the correct threading, size, etc. Also, like shelbyluv said, your caster is hella high... I imagine that has a lot to do with it too. One thing to consider also is that any alignment done at a regular car shop is going to be set and compared to manufactures specs at stock height. Since your Jeep is lifted, you're going to have to do it a little different. If there is a creditable 4x4 shop around you, get your alignment done there. They will be far more knowledgeable with something like this because that's their specialty. I also notice that your tires are running 35+ psi. I know this is a little crazy sounding at first, but bigger tires need less pressure (Boyle's Law). If you try to put the factory recommended amount of pressure in larger tires, that will contribute to death wobble. Believe me, I just went through all this crap last year with my XJ. I have four inches of lift on 31's. I had the RC double shear trac-bar, my tires were running higher psi and my toe in was just awful, although my caster was acceptable. I'm not sure what you mean here. The RC trac-bar should have its own frame side bracket, which should already have a drop built in. Basically, for good steering geometry, your trac-bar and drag link should be parallel. You may consider a drop pitman arm on the steering box to achieve this.

Awesome Doc! Be sure to start a build thread and post lots of pictures. You may come up with some better ways of doing the conversion than I did. I'd surely be interested in following another "4.0 swap into an '86" build.

Steering stabilizers just mask the problem and only work for a short time, if they even help at all. I can tell you right now that that RC adj. trac-bar is something I'd be worried about. I don't know if you got the double shear bar (the one with the heim joint at the axle end), but if you do, take it from someone who has used one (ME), and get yourself something more beefy with a joint joint. RE 1660 Extreme should do the trick.

Power windows and locks were offered on MJ's, though not as common as compared to XJ's, but it was offered. I certainly would not say that they're "rare".

I've thought about up the idle by creating a vacuum leak that I can control from the cab somehow... maybe that's a bad idea but just a though... simple too.

Drive straight backwards a few feet and see if it goes off.

I think those motors like to rev high before they make their torque, but I could be wrong. If you want low end pulling power and good top end, I'm not sure a rotary would be my first choice... But, it would make for an interesting swap. You certainly would be the only one I've heard of doing such a thing.

I want to know about this too.

Well, I'll be getting it back on the road ASAP. I'm picking up a 4.0 from a '96 XJ with 87,000 miles on Wednesday as a backup in case I get bent over on my current engine. One way or the other, my Jeep will live on. :cheers:

Check the head light harness plugs. It's found on the driverside either just next to the airbox or behind the bumper. Anyway, those are notorious for become so badly corroded that it won't transfer the proper amount of current to drive the incandescent bulbs. Looks like this: Image Not Found

I know! lol I go down 64 through Asheboro every time I go to Charlotte or Uwharrie.

So... is that a "not interested"? lol

Is the '86 cable for the 207 the same as the '87? If so, I'm pretty sure I still have the one from my '86 when I did the engine and drivetrain swap... I'd be willing to sell it to you cheap.

I would have, but I was on the way to work and it was about 50 ft of the road in his/her drive way... I don't know that I would have felt safe to waltz on over into someone's drive way, especially in Four Oaks lol.

I'd love to do CB and URE, but at the moment, my XJ is down... The engine is FUBARed... coolant in the top of cylinder #2. The guy who built it is supposed to stop by my house Friday and look it over. It should still be under warranty, so it should be fixed soon, by him.

I am wondering/hoping that whoever owns a black or dark colored MJ in Four Oaks, NC is on this forum. It was parked at a house just off of Blackwater Rd, just before you get to downtown? Anyone here?

Ah, you're right. Well, it's not Renix for sure lol. To the OP, not saying Renix stuff is bad either.

WJ brakes are disc all around. This.