BeenJaminJames

Wouldn't a larger tire make the speedometer read low, which means you actually traveled more miles than it says? With a 31" tire you'd cover 6% more distance than the tripmeter would show. Which would mean 6% better mileage. What kind of driving were you doing when you got those numbers?

Fill it with water and see where it's pouring out from

So what'd you do to get the feed line to reach the bottom of the tank? The stock feed line only reaches down so far, you'd run out of gas at half a tank, which is why I suggested using the return line

Yes on second look, that truck is definitely higher than I want to go. At first glance I thought they were 31" tires, looked at the wheel gap and thought, "well that's a tad high, but close enough." I'm trying to maximize ground clearance as much as possible, while still keeping it low enough to not look more than slightly awkward on 29" highway tires. I'll be primarily hauling and towing with the truck, and will use either the 235/75/15's I have now, or more likely a 30" tire since I don't think these 15's will fit over the brakes I have in mind. That's a highway-only tread. For offroading, I keep a seperate set of larger m/t's that never get aired up or run on the street, and unlock the swaybars while I'm under there. I currently run 31's as nothing larger is practical at stock height. If possible/practical, I'd like to shoot for a height that can allow me to run a 30" highway tire, and a skinny 34" tire offroad, even if some inner fender clearancing needs to be done. That's a 2" (actually more like 2.5") difference in the radius of the tire, so it seems feasable to have a 34x9 that barely clears without making the 30" highway tires look too out of place. And yes, while I agree that there's nothing particularly WRONG with spring under axle, I just don't like it, and I'm stubborn. And I hate it. I live on the side of a mountain (or hill, if you've been to places where they have real mountains) and often use my truck to go down below the bluff to harvest firewood. I can't count how many times I've had a full load, gotten hung up on that bracket, and had to unload the bed so my puny jack could lift the axle off of whatever stump the u-bolts have dug into. Keeping to the high spots isn't always possible. The lowest point on my 240sx sportscar is about the same height as those brackets, 'nuff said. ;) I've never even seen a grand wagoneer in person. Only heard about them in fairy tales and online forums. Lmao they're pretty rare around here. I did see a J10 once, it was too cool. Perhaps they just weren't that common here, or perhaps their massive weight combined with local scrapmetal prices has contributed to them all dissappearing. I'll be building my own perches, so the springs will sit 3/16" above the top surface of the D44 axle tube.

Those wagoneer springs would be perfect... if only it were within the realm of possibility for me to find a decent set. I doubt anyone sells new replacement leaves, but I'll look around. The truck in that picture is the perfect height, actually maybe a bit higher than I'd like, but not so high I'd complain. Unless I can find a good source for 5 leaf SJ springs, the search continues....

I'm aware they're more than strong enough... but I still rather have soa purely because it makes me feel better. Will I ever break the u bolts? Never. But it won't hurt. And there's still the ground clearance issue of having the bracketry hanging down. Awesome blueprint, thanks! 9.5" is alot of arch. And I always thought the mj springs were 60" instead of 57. Good to know. Also I'm somewhat surprised that the axle isn't centered in the middle of the spring. So this might not work so well, will have to get hold of a set of chevy springs to measure.

So I've been thinking... I can't stand the SUA design of these rear ends. All weight is supported by the U bolts in tension, hanging off the threads. That's definitely something I'd like to eliminate. Plus you've got that big bracket hanging down under the axle, so if a tire slips offroad and the ends of the U bolts stab down into the top of a stump, you're not going anywhere without a jack. So I definitely want to convert to SOA. But I don't want to lift the rear of my truck more than about 2-3" as it will and does see alot of highway/towing use with a smaller set of street tires. Then I had an idea. Our springs are 60" long with quite alot of arch in them. Fullsize chevy springs are 63" with very little arch. There's enough room to relocate the front eye of the spring forward 1.5" easily enough, and something could be done with the shackles to take up the extra length in the rear. What I haven't been able to find, is data. I've searched, but can't seem to track down the amount of arch in the MJ springs compared to fullsize chevy springs. I know it's been discussed here before, as I remember seeing a thread a long time ago where it was mentioned. I also have no idea how the spring rates would compare. I'd like to find a good balance between articulation and cargo capacity. It is my understanding that the chevy springs are less progressive than MJ springs due to having fewer leaves. What are your thoughts, ideas, and suggestions? Mods, feel free to move this thread if it doesn't belong here

Yup. :laughin: :rotf: :rotfl2:

I used a sock i had laying around from an old rx7, that just slips over the end of the tube. 84 rx7 with the 1.1/1.2 engine used an inline pump from factory, with the same size tube going into the tank. If you can find a sock for one of those, it'll go right on. Otherwise you may have to do what I did on a few nissans. Cut a couple inches off the end of the return line inside the tank, clamp on a 1" piece of rubber hose, and cut the bottom end off a standard clear plastic fuel filter so it sits down at the bottom of the tank. Cut along this red line, adjust the hose clamps till it's just not quite touching the bottom of the tank.... As far as there being a rubber bushing, I have no idea. Mine simply had a hard metal line going to the bottom of the tank, with no bushing on the end and no bracket inside the tank. Works great. If yours has those, you'll have to remove them. The only rubber bushings in mine, were on the other line, the supply line, for mounting the pump without transferring noisy vibrations into the cab

I'm currently running an inline pump with no issues at all. Here's the best tip I can offer to make it simple. First off, you'll need an inline pump that can handle 50psi. Any gpm rating will likely be fine, pretty much any inline injecton pump will flow enough fuel for a stock 4.0. When you plumb it in, set the pump up to pull from the return line on the tank, and return to the supply line on the tank. This way you can just remove the stock pump, and put a sock on the bottom of the return line as it reaches to the bottom of the tank and no other modification is required there. Other than that it's just a matter of rerouting the wires and picking a spot to mount the pump

I'm still learning the idiosynchracies of the renix electronics.... So in the absence of a signal from the stator, doe the ecu signal the icm from the cps signal? Other engines I have experience with all relied on the stator alone to directly fire the ignitor, independent of any signal from the ecu. Unplugging the stator on these vehicles would simply disable the entire ignition system

In most (not all) cases, backfires into the intake are caused by a lean condition, and backfires out the exhaust are caused by a rich or intermittent-spark condition. Cutting out at random, and then backfiring out the exhaust is a classic sign of ignition issues. Step #4 in Cruisers renix tips shows how to clean the coil/ICM contacts. If you haven't done so already, I'd make that the next thing on the list to take care of. Another issue could be the stator putting out a weak signal. You can find a good write-up on how to test it here. Be sure to use an analog meter when you do the test.

Awesome! Cruiser every time I turn around you're right there with good information, right on point. It's guys like you (and a few others) who are willing to put in the time and effort to contribute, that make this forum what it is. :thumbsup:

If I had a camera, I'd post pics, but I don't. :roll: The only difference between them is the trigger wheel. One has 12 slots, arranged in groups of four evenly spaced around the wheel. The other has 60 slots, 3 of which are much wider than the rest and are evenly spaced around the wheel. Neither one seems to have any "missing teeth" or any way to locate tdc.

So after several months of procrastination I'm finally getting around to finishing the HO swap I started a while back. Unfortunately the flexplate got moved around a few times, and I have no idea which is the old '88 renix flexplate and which one came off the HO motor. How can I tell the difference?