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onlyinajeep726

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    2001

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Everything posted by onlyinajeep726

  1. onlyinajeep726
    Yea, I've been in this same boat... Over looked the obvious, I did. Now I double check it when I get into my XJ haha. (My MJ is a 5-speed)
  2. onlyinajeep726
    Congrats!! Very clean MJ. Well deserved recognition this month. :thumbsup:
  3. onlyinajeep726
    Haven't been able to find out a lot about the hitch I removed, but it is listed in my owner's manual. It's rated as a Class 1 hitch and it shows a picture of just the shank and ball part that mounts to the bumper. No part number from what I could find and Google searches don't show anything like it. What I can tell you is that mine was mounted using carriage bolts fished down through the bottom of the frame rails, however, there were no plates with it to prevent them from spinning or giving some level of reinforcement. The bolts were just sandwiching the thin frame rails. Also, it bolted in three places along the square tubing to the back edge of the sheet metal, and lastly to the bumper. It all appears to be OEM as the mounting is specific to the vehicle. But, doesn't matter now anyway. I got my nut strips from UPS, made a quick trip to Lowes for some bolts and lock washers, and as of an hour ago, the new-to-me Shelton V5 2" hitch is installed. Just word to the wise, make sure you bolt the rear bumper back on BEFORE you bolt up the hitch... I learned this the hard way. :doh:
  4. onlyinajeep726
    IIRC, the BA10, AX15 and NV3550 that are found behind 4.0L are of the same length. But the 4-banger Jeeps are different than the L6 Jeeps.
  5. onlyinajeep726
    Just be aware that a front DS from an AW4 equipped MJ/XJ will not work on a manual trans. equipped MJ/XJ. The AW4 version is an inch longer than the AX15 and BA10 versions.
  6. onlyinajeep726
    I'll have to look, but it appears factory (due in part to how it bolts additionally through the bumper) and my owner's manual shows it as optional equipment IIRC. I'll see what I can find out.
  7. onlyinajeep726
    Thanks Don, you've been a great help. :cheers: :bowdown:
  8. onlyinajeep726
    I just found the pair of Crown Automotive ones on Amazon with free shipping for ~$33. Does anyone know the size and thread pitch of the bolts I need?
  9. onlyinajeep726
    I'd be interested in knowing that too. I guess I'll have to suck it up and buy the JCR ones and call it done.
  10. onlyinajeep726
    The older axle housing is stronger than the new axle due to the extra casting for the CAD. As far as as the seal goes... you have to install an additional seal within the CAD opening. The seal part number is 11800 from Napa.
  11. onlyinajeep726
    Yea, I saw those too. Upon further research, I decided against that method based on people having them rip through the frame rail. Nut strips spread the force of the load more evenly. Plus, no fishing of bolts. Just shove your nuts in and screw it.
  12. onlyinajeep726
    Was looking at the JCR ones, but $50 after shipping is a bit steep for a strip of metal with some nuts welded on... Although, I don't have a metal bender, so making some of my own is likely out of the question.
  13. onlyinajeep726
    Well that's good to know. I read that you can flush it out with some brake cleaner and then blow it out with compressed air. Would you recommend doing it that way, or no go on the brake cleaner?
  14. onlyinajeep726
    I guess I can't make my own very easily... What's up with all those funky bends?
  15. onlyinajeep726
    Got it removed today. Went fairly smooth, other than having to cut off one bolt and running to the parts store to purchase a T-55 torx drive. Getting ready to install this Class II receiver I pulled off of another XJ. Freshly painted and ready to go. Just need to find or make some nut strips...
  16. onlyinajeep726
    That's another concern of mine... I've heard R134a will leak through the old R12 hoses, but information on whether that's really a valid concern is hit and miss. Someone here actually have any knowledge on this? I'm about to order the RockAuto kit, but if need be, I'll order new hoses. But, with that said, would new hoses do the trick if they're still designed for R12 or have they updated the hoses to be R134a compatible?
  17. onlyinajeep726
    IIRC, the NV3550 bellhousing (found in '00 & '01 XJ's) is the exact same. May/may not help in your search, but it gives you another option.
  18. onlyinajeep726
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/271550678615
  19. onlyinajeep726
    He's talking about the temp sensor for the computer, not that fan. I'm assuming he has a Renix MJ. There are three temperature sensors: The CTS, which is in the side of the block and is strictly for the ECU The fan switch temp sender for just the Aux. fan Temp gauge sender for the gauge on the instrument cluster If the CTS is relocated to the thermostat housing, it won't read correctly IIRC, and the ECU will not run the engine optimally. That's my understanding of it, anway. I may be wrong, though.
  20. onlyinajeep726
    :drool:
  21. onlyinajeep726
    The dye is a good suggestion. We let it sit for about 30 minutes with the pump off and it held vacuum consistently the whole time. I'm thinking about going this route. Didn't realize it would be that inexpensive. Where did you get that?! That's what I need.
  22. onlyinajeep726
    You can put the new sensor in the drain port on the side of the block instead of the current CTS location, AFAIK. They should be the same diameter and thread pitch. The thermostat housing is likely to read a different temperature than the side of the block.
  23. onlyinajeep726
    Finally got around to the guys house... We pulled a vacuum on it and it checked out fine. However, due to the limited availability and expense of R-12, he recommended going ahead and converting it over to R-134a. Here's what I've been told and have seen reported on various threads, including this one: New accumulator/dryer/receiver (I assume all three refer to the same thing) New expansion valve Blow out lines with compressed air to remove leftover old oil Drain compressor of old oil New O-rings, the green ones (I've already taken care of this step when I did the engine swap) My question is, when I start shopping for a new accumulator and expansion valve, do I just get a new one for the same year as my MJ? Serious question, I don't know if they're designed differently between R-12 systems and R-134a systems. Also, is there anything else I need besides the aforementioned parts to make this a successful conversion? I'm going to make a RockAuto order soon.
  24. onlyinajeep726
    WB? :dunno:
  25. onlyinajeep726
    ^This.
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