mvusse
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Everything posted by mvusse
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A 4wd Jeep with a 6.5" lift, 37" tires and a long arm kit sitting on top of a rock is cool. A 2wd Jeep slammed 2" with 18s laying down rubber is just as cool. Who said anything about it having to be off road pics?
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Thanks. That's what I needed to know. Say, there is no difference between right and left side, correct?
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I was under my truck taking a look at all moving parts on the front suspension. The driver's side LCA I can't move side to side. The passenger side LCA, however, I cam move the axle end side to side quite easily. The U channel (arm itself) is sliding over top of a large steel bushing, inside of which are rubber bushings. Is the U channel supposed be able to slide over the steel bushing, or is that bushing supposed to be fixed to the holes on each side of the U channel?
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Rear brake proportioning thing
mvusse replied to bullyjeep98's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
One question about that: After doing the bypass, if the front brakes fail causing the piston to move, will the brake fluid still go through the front port if the bottom one is plugged? Or will the piston block the front port meaning that when your front brakes fail, you will also not have rear brakes? -
$1800 if I had the money. But I'm a notorious cheapskate.
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It's got a Jeep front end, but are you sure that's a Jeep?
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Hmmm, I tried a steel rim off my 79 F100 on my 87 Comanche, and it doesn't fit. 5 bolt pattern, but the spacing is way too wide. I believe the Jeep is 5 on 4.5, where my Ford is 5 on 5.5.
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Cool! I'm currently working on modifying the radio antenna bracket in the ps fender to mound my CB antenna there. If I ever put a new radio antenna on, I'll stick it in the ds wheel well, just to be different.
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Needle valve in the float bowl might be stuck closed.
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People used to stuff potatoes up tail pipes when I was a kid. Too much back pressure, and the car wouldn't start. Then someone did it to our VW Jetta TDI (diesel). Lot higher compression, lot stronger starter. Blew the potato out so hard it sounded like a bomb went off.
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Knock Three Times by Dawn.
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Sir, let me take this moment to compliment you on your fashion sense, particularly your slippers.
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My black lab is a sucker for (anyone's) attention and world champion coward. He doesn't protect me, he hides behind me looking for protection.
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If bubbles came up you have air in the system, so yes, you need to bleed the brakes. But more importantly, you need to figure out how the air got in there and fix it. leaking line, bad connection at a fitting, loose bleed valve, bad caliper or wheel cylinder, low fluid level, recent repairs?
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Head gasket! Do not run the engine. Coolant in the oil will mess up your bearings (main and rod) big time.
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Project -> "Super-W Deuce" - Still Alive and Kicking!
mvusse replied to SuperWade2's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
They are right, though. All white with white flares does look good. Especially with the chrome rims. At some point in the future I might paint mine, and I've been thinking about colors. Geo was white, and I repainted white (with black trim), F100 was blue and I painted white, Suburban is white (with black flares). I was trying to figure out what color to go besides white, but decided to go for the same look as yours: white, white flares, chrome wheels. But that still won't happen until next year at the earliest. -
I've had an 84 Old's 98, a 90 Geo Prizm, a 79 Ford F100 (now a trailer), a 94 Suburban (still have it) and now the 87 Comanche. Never had too much of a problem with people cutting me off, mostly because my cars are usually worth less than it costs to fix a dent on their's. And they look like it. The Suburban is the exception, but it is bigger than most things on the road. It's also the only vehicle I've ever had that had body damage fixed on it paid for by my insurance company. First one was a deer that broke the ds side marker light lens :mad:. After inspection by the body shop the total was $900 for bumper, bumper brackets, grill, headlight assembly, parking light, side marker light and alignment. Last one was a drunk on a Harley with no insurance :nuts:. Same parts as above, plus skid plate, lower control arm, filler piece behind bumper, air dam, minor frame work and license plate bracket. Close to $2000 on that one. I'm planning to eventually paint the Jeep, but worried that people might start cutting me off then.
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I'm guessing U-joint.
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Supposedly Keystone has fenders for around $32. They have stores in various locations. For $35 I picked up a used fender of a rust free 1996 Cherokee Sport from Davey's Jeeps in Salem, OH, but I had to remove it myself. Easiest way to remove was by leaving the inner fender and flare on, so I got those as a bonus. I'm getting the other side fender for $15 used from another Comanche Club member. I have looked at those fenders on Ebay, but $69 was kinda steep for me. Then again, I didn't care if I got a new one or a used one, as long as it fit. Driving to Salem was worth it for me as I live only an hour away and I was getting more stuff at the same time. I will be driving 2 hours each way for the other fender, but again, I'm getting a bunch of other stuff at the same time, most importantly a gas tank. Only being able to put 3 gallons in without losing it on the pavement, I'll have to stop twice on the way for gas. 3 times if I start out almost empty.
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What is this world coming too? Next people will be stealing copper plumbing out of vacant houses for scrap. Oh, wait, they already do that too! :nuts:
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But that's only because people in general do most of their driving within 5 miles of home.
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Back in my tree planting days we rented a cargo van for 3 weeks. Went through a tank of gas a day, but brought it back with only about 100 miles on it. We disconnected the speedo cable at the transmission on that one. Much easier to reach than the gauge cluster. With todays computer controlled cars with electronic speedometers that doesn't work anymore. The computer needs to know the speed in order to shift the transmission correctly.
