mvusse

I took Friday off, so we can leave in the morning. 6 or 7 hour drive, depending on if I am in a hurry to get there, or take it easy and save some gas. Add at least an hour for food and leg stretchers (traveling with an 11 year old leaves me no choice on that) and we will probably arrive mid to late afternoon.

Hard to tell from the picture, but that "screw" looks like a grease fitting. It is probably supposed to go into small hole in one of the caps. Odd place for a grease fitting, though. usually they are on the body, which makes them hard to reach. Being on a cap make for much easier access.

Is that "safety feature" present on all E-lockers, or just the one for the D30/D35? I have been thinking of putting one in the front of my Suburban (has a gov-lock in the back) for quite a while now.

http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/PerformanceProducts/Products/Differentials/Elocker/index.htm There's a link to the installation manual for the Dane 30 and 35, so I assume it exists.

A Jeep that won't go off road? That's like an H2 with mud on it! :nuts:

I did just replace the line from the front brake valve (under the master cylinder) to the rear height sensing proportioning valve above the rear axle. The lines are 3/16 as you said, and IIRC the only size fittings I encountered were 3/8 and 7/16. Make sure you use line wrenches and not a regular open end wrench. The original line was two pieces with with the coupling just in front of the gas tank, I replaced it in 3 sections. The front section is a PIA because of all the bends required to get from the top of the engine compartment to the bottom without interfering with the steering. I used 2 60" lines and one shorter one which I believe to be 40". The shorter one I used for the front, with the two longer ones for the relatively straight shot along the frame and to the rear valve. I did have to make a small zig-zag to the front and back along the frame rail to use up a little extra length. I did not replace any other lines as the rest seems to be on okay shape. I do believe I replaced the air box to have easier access to the front brake valve block. All that's needed for that is a regular metric socket set with a few extensions. My tally: 3 length of brake line 2 couplers to connect the sections together 2 3/8" / 7/16" line wrenches 1 metric socket set 2 brake adjusters (mine were rusted stuck) 2 quarts of brake fluid (bled the old dark brown fluid from the whole system) 3' 3/16" hose used for bleeding. 1/4" may work better. 1 empty, clean mayonnaise jar used for bleeding Good luck!

Uhhhh, d44 and 9" on 35's. Congratulations, and have fun wrenching!

With the side in question, take the cover off the tail lights and run a jumper wire from a good ground (negative post of the battery if you have to) and jam it between the copper side of one of the bulbs and the bulb socket. If that solves your problem, you found it. If not, try the other bulb, or try the front bulb. It's got to be one of them. Another way is to take the bulbs out one at a time till the problem goes away, but if the ground is bad to the whole tail light assembly as opposed to just one bulb, it won't go away till you remove both rear bulbs. Actually, I read your post again, and you said your right hand side tail lights were brighter than left. Assuming you used the same bulbs on both sides and all bulbs are good, I wouldn't know what causes it, but that does make me guess at the ground problem being with the front bulb. Good luck. $^&^*% 11 year old daughter has a sleepover. The three of them were giggling loud enough in her bedroom to wake me up!

This is usually caused by a bad ground at the turn signal light, but could be a bad bulb also. It not being as bright, again, could be a bad ground, or a bad bulb. The tail light/turns signal bulbs are doubled up in the back, so when you lose one bulb, you still have one left. My bet, however, is a on bad ground at the tail lights.

Could it be electrical? Maybe some vermin have been chewing on the cables...

Maybe the torque converter is fine, but the clutches are slipping?

Mike's hard lemonade! :cheers:

I bought my complete header panel/grill assembly from him. Wouldn't hesitate to buy from him again. The only thing holding me back on that axle is the shipping. Well, that and you possibly wanting to buy it. No need to unnecessarily drive up the price. :nuts:

You're welcome. I figured I have an extra radio, so why not put it to use...

Weird that peak torque and peak HP are at the same RPM. High RPM even. Normally peak torque is at a lot lower rpm than peak HP. Usually makes sense mathematically because HP is torque multiplied by RPM (and then multiplied by a constant depending on what units are being used).

I don't like composite or vinyl "lumber". It expands and contracts way too much with temperature changes, gets hot enough to burn you in the sun, and slippery as snot in the rain. The wood bed on my F100 has lasted 12 years now. The back half of the truck lives on as a trailer, and the bed's still there. When I drove it a lot I did have to redo the urethane on the sides every 50,000 miles or so as dust particles in the air would slowly sand it off. And it's mounted to the stock holes in the frame using bushing from a gm sway bar link kit and carriage bolts. Undo 8 nuts and the whole thing lifts off the frame. To the right of the Manche:

Hey, I take offense to that! I have a 1994 K1500 Suburban, and it has given me less troubles in 165,000 miles than any other vehicle I've owned. I love my Burb. Just don't like putting gas in it: 16mpg highway and a 42 gallon tank.

F100 had a Cherry Bomb glass pack 'cause it was cheap. Suburban currently has Thrush glass pack . Love the sound on both of those. Geo had stock muffler. Was afraid a glass pack would make it sound like an angry mosquito. MJ will get glass pack as soon as the current muffler rusts out. Probably less than a year.

If you can get a magnet mount antenna to stick to your roof, I can hook up a cigarette lighter plug to power an extra radio you can just toss on the passenger seat or so.

Didn't you say the noise is there when in gear but standing still? In that case it can't be the transfer case. Heck, it can't be anywhere behind the torque converter.

My Suburban is "Olympic White", and I can get a spray can with touch-up paint from any GM stealership's parts department. But I doubt GM Olympic White is the same as AMC/Chrysler Olympic White. Try a dealership, or if possible take a sample to NAPA.

Did you sand the surface (with a scotch pad) before spraying the primer? Clean it good with a degreaser followed by thinner? Primer (as well as paint) needs to have a clean surface with some kind of texture to adhere well.

I might try the roof mount. Can't go under the steering wheel as I'm 6'5". I need every bit of knee room I can get. Say, where'd you get your laptop mount?

Okay, next topic: CB radios. I have a few radios and antennas laying around (but no antenna mounts). Do you guys use CB radios? If so, where did you mount them? I have looked and looked around the truck, and the best place I can come up with is on the back wall in between the seats, with the mic mounted to the side of the center console. There has got to be a better spot! Or if nobody else has one, I just won't bother.

From viruslist.com: If you don't use ie 5 or 6 you're fine. It also doesn't actually install anything on your computer. As long as you don't enter any bank/credit card/paypal info you're fine.