mvusse

Ahhh, yes, the good old Renault 5, which is what it was called in Europe. They also had a "Super5", most of which came from the factory with a body kit, including wing, low profile tires and sportier interior. Also a transverse engine, where the older 5 had a longitudinal engine. I guess that means it went from rwd to fwd at the same time. I remember they recalled ALL of them after a few years because of the key breaking off in the ignition! Quality craftsmanship there in France. Then again, my dad's Citroen CX was awesome with it's air suspension. But my mother's Citroen 2 CV (Deux Chevaux, or 2 horses), nick named "The Duck" by everybody was the worst 2 cylinder piece of crud I ever rode in. Never did own a Renault, though, just Citroen, Fiat, Peugeot, a VW Passat and a slew of VW Jettas. Is it called a hijack if you hijack your own thread?

Just got back from Dave Worshil's in Canton, OH. They had an 86 MJ 4x4 lwb, all banged up. Motor, grill and hood are okay, rest of body and interior are shot. Did not get to see what the gas tank was like because of the plastic cover, but guessing from the body rot, I imagine it won't hold gas any better than mine. It has a 2.5, 5 speed. Also 4 4.0 HO engines, 3 in XJs, one in a ZJ, and a boatload of XJs with the 2.8, some with the 2.5. Wanted $35 for a track bar which is what a new one costs, $20 for the bracket :nuts: But looking at the brackets, as well as I could get access to them to look, I think mine might be bent. That might explain the 3/8 side to side axle offset. No usable fenders, no tow hooks, and the MJ had a bench, so no lower bucket seat frame. Guess I'll email Davey's Jeeps with my shopping list. I do know he has fenders, but no gas tanks.

Just got back from the Dave Worshil's in Canton, OH. For all parts to do a Renix 4.0 to a 4,0 HO swap they would want $350 exchange, and you there to point out exactly what all you need. They are more Ford/GM people and do not know AMC and Chrysler too well. They do have 2 91 and a 93 XJ, as well as a 95 ZJ with the 4.0 HO.

Not quite. You'd need the computer too.

Correct me if I'm wrong as the only first hand experience I have is with a 4.0 Renix, but I believe the 2.5 has throttle body injection, whereas the 4.0 has multi port. And I believe multi port injection needs much higher pressure, hence a different pump.

I gotta remember that. I got a big gaping hole on the driver's side, same area.

Yeah, I needed a radiator for my Suburban a few years back. $399. Then again, that radiator is bigger than my entire Comanche bumper to bumper. Okay, maybe not. It has a cracked tank, but that what lifetime warrantee is for. Back on topic, I had a similar problem on my Geo, that turned out to be a missing cylinder. New plugs wires, distributor cap and rotor fixed it. Actually, just the distributor cap fixed it, but I usually replace all that stuff at the same time. It's also possible it is a bad U joint in the drive line, or a bent (or out of balance if it lost a weight) driveshaft.

Factory Service Manual. I think...

I don't know about internal work. How much boost? Can the stock rods and pistons handle the extra HP? Is the compression low enough to not get detonation under boost? I think the 2.5l and 4.0l both are 9.2:1 compression. That is quite high for a turbo or supercharger setup.

I have a related problem. Don't fog up too much in the rain, however, in the morning my windshield has frost on it. ON THE INSIDE! Actually, it frosts over on both inside and outside, but inside is always thicker.

First initial and main part of last name. Use it on most sites.

It's a Comanche Body Work manual. I was hoping for a Shop manual, as I just got my $2 Chiltons off Ebay and it is every bit as unorganized and convoluted as the one for my Olds 98 was. That's why I usually use Haynes. I do have one of those coming in the mail here any day now, also off Ebay.

Veggie oil is a bit thicker than diesel fuel. In warm climates in the summer that is not a problem (Mythbusters is in CA), but everywhere else it is. A conversion system usually includes a dual tank setup. One tank with diesel for start up and operation until the WVO has been heated up, and another tank for WVO with a tank heater and fuel line heater to warm it up and thin it. Biodiesel is diesel made from veggie oil instead of dead dino juice, and will work in all diesels without any conversion. Pros of Biodiesel: -better top end lubrication -(mostly) cleaner burning -burns hotter (more HP) Cons: -gells up at lower temp (about 10 F as as opposed to -10 F) -burns hotter (more Nitrous Oxides in the exhaust) -more expensive (unless you make it yourself) I'd love to have a diesel vehicle to safe some money at the pump. I almost had an old VW Jetta for $700, but someone bought it out from under me, even though I was supposed to be first to look at it.

Height from center of hub to lower edge of flare is 17 1/8" on both sides, within 1/16".

I don't think it's the wrong year. I think it might be BENT. If the curved part got bent from an impact, the only way to tell is to lay another one on top, or check the length against a known straight one. Approx measurements don't help much, as the axle is only off 3/8", If I remember correctly, my track bar measures 33" even end to end, or 31 3/16" from center of bolt hole to center of grease fitting. But I don't have any numbers to compare those to. If the bar is correct, it is possible the bracket is bent, or maybe the frame isn't as square as my tape measure told me it is. This vehicle did broadside a deer at 55mph before I bought it, Will go out and measure height in a minute.

I bought this truck about 6 weeks ago. Looks like stock height to me, no lift. I noticed from the very beginning the ds front wheel seemed to almost stick out of the wheel well. Since my Suburban tracks wider on the front than the rear, I didn't really think about it. Then last week I noticed the ps sits inside the wheel well. So I dropped a plumb bob from 2" outside the top of the fender flare on each side, and measured from the line to the hub center on both sides. 3/4" difference. Just looking at it, it looks like a lot more. I guess when you pay $400 for a truck you know has problems, there will be problems with it you didn't know about.

The old thread seems to have dropped off the front page, so here's a new one: Can anyone measure their stock track bar length? Either end to end, or preferably center of tie rod end to center of axle end bolt hole. I need to find out what exactly is bent or out of wack causing my front axle to be 3/8" off center.

Yes it was an old episode, since the crew rig is finished, the diesel swap (VW Jetta diesel with a WVO system on the Suzuki Samurai) is finished and they were halfway into the GMC K20 mud truck last week.

I would start by having an aligment done, followed by a visual inspection of your rims and tires and having your wheels balanced by a tire shop as you might have lost a weight. If the vibration persists, ???? Might want to check your front shocks as well.

On mu 1994 Suburban with a GM TBI 350 (OBD I), you just short 2 terminals on the diagnostic port and turn the ignition on. Then you count flashes of the Check Engine light to read the codes. I'm assuming the 2.8V6 is the same.

Found this sucker in the "parts" section: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-Lifted-Cherokee-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ150228610010QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item150228610010

$600 the way it is now. Probably $1K when I'm done fixing it. Would use the money toward a 2.5l.

Sure looks like a fuel injector hanging over top of the throttle body to me.

Yeah, I know of the damage a chain can do if it breaks or comes loose under strain. But you gotta use what you got. I have never had to pull out a seriously stuck truck. Mostly just pulling cars out of ditches and towing the 26" box truck out of the dock when it's icy. Thanks for the link on the hooks.