mvusse

The three pictures seem to have something in common. Do you happen to have a pilot's license instead of a driver's license?

1 Jeep, 1 dad (me) and 11 year old daughter, 1 or 2 tents. Do we need to make reservations for the park or camping? Does anything need to be paid in advance? Where's a good place to attach recovery hooks? Where's a good (cheap) place to get them? I don't care if the hooks get bent pulling me out of wherever I probably should not have tried to go, just don't want to mess up my front bumper or bend the rear one more than it already is. I never did find a way to directly hook a chain to the frame front or back. At least my Suburban came with 2 15,000 pound hooks front and class III receiver rear from the factory. Might put a receiver on the Jeep for my bike rack, but possibly not in time for the trip.

May be too early to tell, but I tightened up the track bar to get rid of the play, and the death wobble *seems* to be gone. Now to fix my rear brakes, find the gas leak and get my front axle centered.

I did manage to get the ball joint tightened today; we'll see if that fixes the death wobble. Did some more careful measuring with a plumb bob, and the axle is off centre 3/8". (3/4" difference between left and right). I also measured the track bar to check against a s known good one to see if it's messed up (Drahcir?) Mine measures 33" end to end, or 31 3/16" from the center of the grease fitting to the center of the bolt hole. I could be off a bit as I had to measure around the differential. As far as matching ones, it looks like 84 through 90 MJ and XJ, probably 91 and up XJ, MJ and ZJ and maybe TJ?

Wow, almost missed that part. Look guys, it's got a track bar. :rotf:

Since we all seem to be tenting, do they have property for that, or is there a campground nearby?

Can I get back to you on that? I might be able to get a j-y one locally for less than shipping from FL. Will be headed to the Great White North to visit the folks for Easter, so I won't be able to check until a week from Saturday.

No lift. Sideswiped a deer at 55 mph dead center on the front. Grenaded the header panel/grill assembly, bumper looked like a crumpled up pop can, ds fender in front of wheel also, ps fender mostly okay. Panel underneath radiator also bent. Frame, surprisingly, is straight and square within 1/8". New header panel, bumper and fender bolted on with all holes lining up perfectly (except bottom center bracket on header as panel underneath radiator is bent back). It is possible the impact bent the track bar. The straight part is straight, though, and the mounting brackets on frame and axle also seem fine. Tomorrow I'll measure the length of the track bar. Don't know what it is supposed to be, though.

What all vehicles/years will a track bar for an 87 MJ interchange with? I'm assuming mine's messed up/bent as the front axle is 1/2" off center. DS tire top sidewall is even with outside of fender flare, PS sits in 1"... Same tires, same pressure.

Happy green day to all from me as well. As for Boondock Saints? I watched it yesterday or Saturday. Weekend's kind of a blur right now. I don't see it on today, though.

Never done brakes on a Jeep before, but disc brakes are disc brakes. 1. Yes, you can replace pads without bleeding the system. 2. You should also have the rotor turned, or buy a new one. 3. You will need a 5" or so C-clamp to push the caliper back in. 4. Always replace brake parts in pairs. If you do one front wheel, you should do the other one as well. If the brake fluid is more than a few years old, the whole system should be bled to replace with new fluid. usually starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, working your way to the one closest, but our trucks have some kind of weird variable proportioning valve at the rear axle that I believe the front brakes go through as well, so that might change the order.

Coolant hoses have a habit of getting "stuck" after a few years. If you have a large enough pair of pliers you can try to twist the hose to break it loose. Or you can stick a screw driver under the end and pry it loose. I'm sure neither technique is safe from damaging parts, so try at your own risk. As for the temperature, that sounds a lot like an air bubble in the system, or being borderline low on coolant.

I think the roofs might be shaped different, There's a thread somewhere about grafting an mj cab back onto a cut xj that shows the difference.

I think they are a thing of the past. Both R&S Truck Caps and Ohio Light Truck Parts (both local to me) used to have them. Neither shows them in their catalog or site searches anymore. My buddy used to have one on his truck. I borrowed it once and hated it, I had to bend down to be able to see the traffic lights underneath it. Then again, I'm 6'5"

Heck, the closest j-y to me would probably pay $250 to $300 for it as scrap metal. I got $275 out of a dinky little Geo Prizm. Bought it for $200, drove it two years till the engine blew and took it to the yard for $75 profit!

Yes, I do. So you're saying take off the cap and leave it home?

The mechanical fan by itself should be able to keep it from overheating. If it is a factory installed electric fan, I think that is for the AC. I would start with the cheapest part, and check the t-stat first.

Okay, one more question. I have a fiberglass cap on the back (see avatar). Makes is easy for camping as I'll just throw the sleeping bag in the back. No tent needed. But, will that get in the way wheeling? Or basically: Should I leave it home? Or leave it on?

That was awesome!

Sadly, no good pics of the snow. Just a bunch of half the neighborhood (including the adults) sled riding down the street. The plowed street was the only place the snow wasn't too deep. Everywhere else a sled would just sink into the snow and not go anywhere.

Pure speculation here, but it seems it idles fine when in open loop (running rich) and starts to mess up when it leans out the mixture in closed loop. Could be the O2 sensor, or could also be an air leak between the throttle body and intake manifold (gasket?) That's my take, but then, I build furniture for a living. Engines are just a hobby, and I'm more at home with a Chevy 350. Have only had my Jeep 4.0 for a month and a bit now. so I'm not necessarily qualified for this.

Started tracking down my death wobble, and found a possible cause: the ball joint end of the track bar is loose. I took the cotter pin out and put a wrench on the castle nut, but whenever I turn it, the entire threaded end turns. Is there a "proper" way to do it, or do I put some vice grips on the threaded part above the nut to hold it while I tighten it? There is about 1/8" play up and down, and about the same front to back. The wobble seems to mainly originate in the right hand tire (but that might also just be my imagination), and only on slight right hand turns. It is definitively getting worse and happening more often, though so I need to fix it. I am also removing that wheel this weekend, possibly both if I have time and making a careful inspection of steering parts/joints, hinge points, suspension parts and U-joint on that side. I also found out the front pumpkin was low on oil (at least 2") and I added a bit more than a quart before it started coming out the fill hole. Is that "I probably messed up the gears driving 50-100 miles in 4wd" bad, or just "filled it up and should be fine now" bad? Did see some awesome scenery on unplowed single lane dirt roads after our 14" snowfall, though. That was when the snow was still dry and fluffy last Saturday.

O2 sensors need to be 600 degrees or hotter before they start working. To reach that temperature faster, some have a heater built in. Those have 3 wires. 2 wire O2 sensors do not have a heater and rely on exhaust heat only. Yours have 3 wires?

Autozone and I imagine other parts stores sell inexpensive 2" and 3" shock extensions. They just screw onto the top of the shock and only cost a few bucks. Not a long term solution, but you did say it was only temporary. I ran them on my F100 for about a year no problem.

The place from the thread in the clasifieds section sells remanufactured Ford/Bosch II injectors for the 4.0 litre for $114.95 for a matched set of 6. Use the "Jeep" discount code and get 10% off that price. That is a lot cheaper than $70x6=$420...