mvusse

Are you positive? My 87 MJ is all metric.

One of the things I've learned during my short time here so far is that 2wd transmissions and 4wd transmissions are different in that the 4wd ones are made to have a transfer case bolted to them and 2wd go right o the drive shaft. That is if I remember correctly...

That's why GM bought Isuzu which then designed and built the 6.6l Duramax for them. Best diesel available in a US truck. I think it's the only time in history a car company bought another car company just for it's diesel technology.

I thought it was "only fools get married!" She left me after 12 years of bliss. Turns out I was a fool. Never again!

I came into work only to find out that two of the other guys decided to work Saturday. The one guy decided I messed up my math figuring out a custom entertainment center and cut 3/4" off the sides of the bottom half before building it. Then proceeded to tell the other guy his doors were 3/4" too long, so he tossed those into the wood burner and made new ones. This morning I arrive to find him looking at the sides for the top half with a puzzled look on his face and proceeds to tell me I messed up royally. :mad: We discuss the custom order, I redo all my math on paper this time so he can follow it and he walks out of the shop in disgust. %@ whipper snappers need to leave my pieces alone when I'm not there. Anyone in NE Ohio want a custom 6 piece entertainment center for cheap? You could probably have it for around $1000. That was my day today. I hate Mondays!

It's been ages since I've seen that, Love the beer keg strapped to the side for a gas tank. That's something they'd do here in the US of A.

I'm new to the jeep thing, so I looked it up. Dana 30 also has 5.38 available, but the 35 for the rear only goes to 4.88. If the rear axle would have been a 44, 5.38 would be a possibility, but there's nothing in between 4.88 and 5.38. I don't even know if a Dana 35 will survive 35" tires for very long without breaking something.

Sounds fun, but my Suburban is the only 4x4 I have that currently has tow recovery points front and back and it only sits on 31s, but does have a rear locker. Plus it's my DD and my "nice" car. Not quite ready to scratch it up yet. It's fun in the mud but aint going into the trees or rocks. Maybe next year my MJ will be ready.

Using those numbers, 5.16 gears would be equivalent to 4.10 and stock tires. 5.13 is the closest common ratio, but thinking about getting all that extra rotating mass going I personally would opt for 5.29 myself, if not more. I'd also definitely look into a brake upgrade to be able to stop that much tire.

Could also be the ignition switch.

Good luck. I've had to do an alternator in a Pep Boys parking lot 3 hours from home, which is where I had the tow truck drop me off at 8:30 pm with borrowed tools, as well as a thermostat in an Autozone Parking lot 9 hours from home. never fun, always an adventure.

I'm with JTDesigns. Like the way it looked before he flipped it. Don't like the 2500 front end.

2 wishes: -5.5" lift complete with shocks, control arms, track bar and spring over rear. Scrap control arms: long arm kit. -110V MIG welder -mvusse

Could you test the plug with a test light? Volt meter have a very high impedance, and can show voltage when there is barely any power. A test light will tell you more in a case like this. And 10V is not good assuming your batter is around 12V. How much resistance do you need to show a 2V drop against a volt meter? If the battery is at only 10V, you might want to charge it. I looked over the wiring diagrams, and it looks like it is a simple circuit from the fuse block to the switch to the turn signal switch. On the plug, A should be hot (12V), it is marked "20 18PK", I'm assuming PK means pink. B is the other side other side of the switch "71 18LB/BK" which I assume is light blue/black. It goes through the turn signal switch to the lamps. It connects to the hazard flasher switch as well, but does not go through. After the turn signal switch it shows a connector/plug marked A through F with A and E being the stop light/turn signal lamps. But it doesn't show where the connector is located. I hope this is of any help.

That's the one I have, no AC. What gets me is the guy says it came from a Jeep with working heat and AC! Who needs AC when you have vent windows?

Doh!

Whatever shop will do it for you should be able to tell you what all you need. I know Summit Racing sells ring/pinion gear sets as a kit with all bearings and shims included. Even included a tube of marking paint to check the gear pattern. We went that route to repair the rear end in my buddy's YJ Wrangler a few years back. I think it had Dana 24s.

Whereabouts are you located?

Just curious, did you put the cooler inline with the one internal to the radiator, or do you use it instead of that one? If it is also going through the radiator, is it going through the radiator first, then the cooler, or the new cooler first, then the radiator? My Suburban has a transmission cooler from the factory on top of the element in the radiator (built for towing), but I have no clue what line is the inlet and what is the outlet, so I don't know which one comes first on it. If I were to install a transmission temperature gauge, I'd install a sensor on both inlet and outlet lines, with the switch to select which one to display. That way you can get the transmission temperature (outlet) as well as see how well your transmission cooler system is working (outlet compared to inlet). I did drive a 80's Chevy K10 one summer for work that had an after market transmission temperature gauge, but I have no clue what it usually read. That was many many moons ago. Say, wouldn't this thread be more at home in the tech forum?

The bake light switch is mounted on the pedal itself, near the top. Removing the lower dash trim will make access a lot easier. Edit: Damn Fiatslug87, you're fast!

Since the turn signals use the same filaments on the same bulbs, the sockets, bulbs and most wiring are out of the equation. I would suspect the brake pedal switch.

The American public is obsessed with performance. Especially "off the line" performance. To get that your design the engine for good low end torque, but that comes at the expense of high end hp as well as fuel economy. If you compare foreign made cars made for the domestic market, to the same car made for export to the states, you will notice the hp and fuel economy rating for the US models are lower, but 0-30 acceleration is much higher. Put an American driver behind the wheel of a JDM Honda Civic in city traffic and he will complain about lack of power. But on the freeway it will blow away a US civic engine while getting better mpg. There are exceptions, though, like the Subaru WRX which makes 238hp but you need to shift all the way down to 1st every turn you make because 2nd doesn't have the guts accelerate from 20 back to 35 without lugging the engine, or even my old 1990 Geo Prizm (which is a Toyota Corolla). It got 40 mpg on a multi port injected 1.6l, but if you floored the gas from a still stand it would accelerate slowly to about 25mph, and THEN throw you back in the seat. All the newer Corollas have larger engines to partly offset the lack of low end torque. And on another somewhat related topic, flex fuel is not the answer to the fuel problem. Diesel is. So what if your car has a top speed of only 85 mph, a Mercedes 300D does have tremendous low end torque AND gets 50 to 55 mpg. Old VW Jetta TDIs used to get 55+. Someone did the math, and using the ENTIRE us corn and grain production, leaving none for food and livestock feed, would still only provide 30% of the ethanol needed for all E85 instead of gasoline. And E85 gets worse mileage than straight gasoline, while being more corrosive to the fuel system and engine parts. Cars manufacturers are loving it, though, as there are minimal changes needed, and shorter engine life equals more new cars sold. But I believe I'm ranting again.

Depends on why you are replacing it. If you want the higher HP of the HO engine, everything's got to go. It uses a different computer, different wiring harness, different ignition system and different sensors. Or so I'm told. If you're just replacing it because it is old, the block is the same. But in that case, why not rebuild what you have?

I think you should be okay vulcanizing a patch on the inside, but if you want to be absolutely sure, an inner tube can't hurt.

Davey's Jeeps in Salem, OH wants $650 for 4.0 HO engine complete with wiring and computer. No exchange of the old one needed. So far that averages out to $500.