mvusse

I have to respectfully disagree. I build furniture for a living and deal mostly in oak. I love the grain, as there is almost nothing like it (except ash). Do some custome stuff in cherry and maple, but don't really like them, except for the smell when cutting or machining it. But nothing I've seen beats black walnut. :brows: Not even oak, and definitely not cherry. My F100 had a bed made out of 5/4 decking boards, stained early american (Minwax #230) and about 5 coats of poly. Why decking boards? Because pine lumber is CHEAP. If I'd do a wood bed for a show truck, I'd probably go mainly oak with black walnut accents. All black walnut is not affordable.

Just being a nitpick here, but gasoline is more like 6 pounds per gallon. But anyway, bad idea. I guess I'll just keep using it for holding up mufflers and other light things. No gas tanks.

Does anyone have any opinions on using plumber's strap to hang a tank? Good or bad.

X2! Is that custom made, or was it bought somewhere?

Blown fuses due to a partial short overloading the circuit? I'm just stabbing in the dark now, but it fits the symptoms.

If you have no brake OR turn signals, they use the same filament on the same bulbs. Stupid question, but did you check the bulbs? If it is the wiring, it will be between the turn signal switch and the bulbs, not between the brake switch and turn signal switch like Smithe1811. Do the front turn signals work?

Whoops...

Well, rear brakes work. And since it seems to work just fine I left the height sensing valve in there as well. Parking brakes are non-existent so far as both rear cables have rusted through, front cable and equalizer are missing. That seems to be the norm for old trucks around here. My F100 was like that when I bought it (and it was a stick shift!), my Jeep is like that, and my neighbor's Ranger is like that. That will be the next project after I get my new (to me) gas tank here and installed.

Hey, if you don't play with your toys, what good are they? You're never too old to act like a kid.

Well, I finally decided to investigate why I had no rear brakes. Turned out the PO fixed a rusted through/leaking brake line by pinching it shut. By the time all was said and done I had run a whole new line from the front valve body to the rear weight sensing valve. 3 pieces totaling 160". Now the brakes themselves are so loose they still don;t really work, but I can't adjust them: the adjusters on both wheels are rusted stuck. So badly that even with a pipe wrench and a pair of channellocks I still could not break them loose. Surprisingly, the sprigs, pins and cylinders are all in good shape..

Like Eagle said: good thing we all speak English. Thanks for the clarification.

That might also work. A lot like the setup I saw in an 1977 IH school bus I drove for work during spring/early summer from 1990-92.

D/B?

Looks kinda like the one I nailed together out of 2x4 scraps for my F100. Made it to fit perfectly in the bed side to side and 2 screws (wood bed) to keep it from sliding front to back. Don't have most of that truck anymore, and now have a 4 bike rack that fits in a 1.25" receiver with an adapter to fit a 2". $90 at Wally World.

In that case, the new vacuum reservoir is a red herring in reference to the disco. Maybe it works correctly now because I've actually been using 4wd since I got it and engaged/disengaged it on average numerous times a day when there was snow. With bald tires I needed it more than I should have. The truck had definitely been neglected, if not it's whole 21 years, at least the last few. The 4wd drive indicator light was on in 2wd, for a while and after using 4wd it'd take 2 days to go off. It would also take a few seconds to engage. Now it engages almost immediately and takes only a few seconds to disengage. But if that has nothing to do with the vacuum reservoir, where does the transfer case get it's vacuum source for the disconnect? Or is it not vacuum operated like I though it was? Heater control has different problems. Even with the line hooked up it would only blow at the defrost vent, and the temperature selector will not move from hot. The lever is physically stuck. After the big and safety issues have been taken care of I'll pull it out of the dash and see what's going on. I'm sure the vacuum line is either clogged, cut or leaking, but there's something physically wrong with the controls as well. Since that is last on my list of things to do, once the weather warms up permanently I will probably jury rig the coolant shutoff valve to the off position until I get to it,

Those holes will not have paint lining the edges and start rust. Especially with a bed liner on top holding the moisture.

I would dare say the coolant shutoff valve defaults to hot, unless mine is stuck. My vacuum line is currently disconnected (and has been for a few weeks now, long story) and I have hot air at the defrost vents.

Bermuda triangle?

short answer; 2 small and 2 bigger holes if it's the egg-shaped one. the round one may be the same, but I don't recall. there were two different ones available and i'm not sure why The long one has two chambers, one for heater controls and one for cruise control. The round one is for vehicles w/o cruise. Hmmm, my 87 had a round one with one big and one small hole. One line connected to all the vacuum stuff, one to just the heater controls. Also had a problem with the axle disco not disengaging. When I replaced the bumper, the new one came with an oval one, much bigger. Since the mounting tabs were btoke on the old round one, I left the new one in the bumper, but, it only had 1 hole! So I disconnected the heater one, since the controls didn't work anyway (well, the electrical part works, just not the vacuum) and put just the other one on. Now my disco works great. Fixing the heater controls are on the bottom of the list. When I do I'll find another vaccum source, or put a T in somewhere. Byt what I'm getting at, why did my little round 87 MJ one have 2 holes, and my big oval newer (97+?) XJ Limited one has only 1. The bumper was factory color matched to the body.

Power steering pump/reservoir: Steering box: The line out of the top of the pump is the left line on the box, the line out of the side of the reservoir is the right line in the box. Ignore the bottom line in the second picture. It is a transmission cooling line. Hope this helps.

Keep us updated. If you do make it, you'll probably be coming through Cambridge, OH, where I70 and I77 intersect. I live only about 45 minutes straight up I77 and will take it down to Cambridge and then I70 West from there. That allows us to to follow each other for half your trip, as insurance. If you start on your trip Thursday instead of Friday, you could stay at my place for the night. Don't really have an extra bed, but I have 2 empty couches... On a side note, I will probably drive my Jeep down instead of trailering it, but will take most of my tools with me. If something major does happen, I will try to talk my 17 year old to borrow a friend's trailer and come get us with the Suburban. No need to spend $100+ extra "just in case". I don't own a trailer, but there are 3 trailers I could probably borrow.

After reading the whole thread again, and all the talk of breaking things on pages 2 and 5, should I drive the Jeep as I was planning, or trailer it behind the Suburban in case I break something vital in the drive train? Trailering it would definitely add to the gas bill. I could drive it for $125 to $150, the Suburban would take upward of $200 in gas to tow the Jeep, possibly as high as $250.

10 MPG? I got 10 on my first tank of gas, half of which leaked out onto the ground. 14 since then, on a neglected truck. About 16 now that I've done most of a tune-up. And how in the heck do you spend $180 on food for a weekend? Gas grill and burgers! Hmm, rum? I think I'll got for vodka and OJ, or Mike's. Either way, $20 is about right. Can't go too crazy since my 11 year old will be spotter/co-pilot. :cheers: Somebody please tell me fees and tenting isn't going to cost me $200. I only get to $53 for two night tenting and 1 day playing for the two of us. QUIT YER WHINING AND JOIN US! @$$>

Went to Autozone, they didn't carry NGK anymore. Went to Advance, out of stock, so I ordered them. They listed two NGK plugs, one was the platinum, one was the copper core V Power. I got the V Power. They have a regular side electrode, and a V shaped center electrode, as opposed to the splitfire plugs which have a single center electrode and a split side electrode. Anyway, they are FR5, stock number 7373. I hope these are the right ones. What came out was AC Delco FRI5. Now I like Ac Delco, and they are the only plugs that work well in my Suburban, but I'm a firm believer that GM parts (like AC Delco) belong only on GM vehicles.

Under dash lights? I don't think these were an option from the factory (correct me if I'm wrong), so they must be after market. Maybe whomever installed these messed up the wiring for the dome lights. That would be a place to start looking.