mvusse

Muffler shops will use smaller pipe to save $$$. Ex wife had a geo prizm. Had Pied Piper redo the exhaust a while ago. I end up with the car, go to replace the muffler and have a heckuvatime trying to fit a stock replacement 2" muffler onto a 1 5/8" pipe! But she got a GREAT deal on the exhaust work... My Suburban had the same problem. Supposed to have a 2 1/5" exhaust. Had 2" from cat back when I got it. And my MJ? Well, it currently has swiss cheese for an exhaust system. At least that is what it resembles.

And don't waste the money on a fail safe thermostat. It's a cheap gimmick and a bad design. I made that mistake once. I hit 210 degrees in the mountains the day after I put it in, and after that the engine wouldn't warm up. Took the sucker out and saw it was stuck open. They have hooks that grab the valve and prevent it from closing again if it ever reaches 210 degrees. Since a proper cooling system is designed to work within specs up to 245 to 260 degrees, that causes problems. Replaced the $12 piece of crap with a $3 standard one and no more problems.

I can see the theory behind adding a throttle body spacer if you have throttle body injection. But what is it supposed to do on a 4.0? They use multi port injection.

I have 2 girls, 11 and 17. Trust me, there's a reason I'm bald on top and my beard is going gray. Boy are SO much easier to raise. They will just beat the crap out of each other and keep the parents out of it. At least that's what my brother and I used to do. Congrats!

I used to always assume they had no resistance to speak of; like electric wires. Turns out they do, like about 5000 ohms per foot or so. Never actually tested for myself, so this is second hand information.

I have never done this, but here goes: :needpics:

Didn't your AAL come with new (longer) bolts? The ones on my Sub did. Anyway, if the bolts are old, they will break before the nut lets go. Relieving the tension on the springs that fast can cause one or more leafs to break. Don't ask me how I know,.. I would not even think of driving a leaf sprung vehicle without the center bolt. The U bolts might hold things together, but the center bolt keeps everything aligned and in place. Before trying to take the nut of, use a couple of C clamps, one of each side of the nut to keep the springs compressed if the bolt breaks. Then use can loosen the clamps to decompress the leafs slowly. Every center bolt I have seen that was more than a few years old looked either like a corkscrew, or zig-zagged back and forth, and needed replaced even if it didn't break.

#1 I guess you could, or you could buy the correct bolts. Dealerships might have them, parts stores might have them. I have a local company that specializes in brake, hydraulic and suspension work, mainly on (semi)trucks, but other stuff as well that has a bunch of different (diameter) sizes in different lengths. They get them in 5 gallon steel buckets... Last time I needed a replacement for my F100 they handed me like 5 free of charge. #2 I just checked what is left of my F100 (became a trailer), my MJ and my Suburban. They all just have bolts without sleeves. #3 Dunno.

Thanks. Probably won't happen for two months, though.

I'm not. According to the site I should be getting 15/19, I seem to be getting 13/16. There's some stuff I need to do yet, including checking the O2 sensor, fixing the exhaust, and a general tune-up. After that I will drive it for a while to get a feel for the mileage and see if it changed any, after which I will get a set of Ford injectors off that internet site mentioned somewhere on these forums.

Sounds like the PO was telling the truth.

Don't forget wheels and tires.

Yes, the bumper too. I think the bumper also interchanges with some Wagoneers. 84 - ? maybe. And I've heard (but have no personal experience) that the doors interchange with the front doors of 4 door Cherokees. I bought my 87 Manche a month ago with a smashed front end. Got a complete header panel with grill and lights off Ebay, out of an 89 Cherokee. Just finished installing a bumper off a 91 Cherokee Limited and a fender from a 92 Cherokee Sport.. Bumper and grill used to be chrome, now I have a black grill with a white header and a green bumper on a grey truck...

The front ones interchange with Cherokees; I think 1984 through 1996. Dunno about the rear.

Methinks either those tires suck, or he is running too much air in them for most of the video.

I love the buckets in my MJ, so buckets! But I miss being able to seat 3 people like in my F100, so bench! I DON'T KNOW!

Added my vote for the flat bottom.

My stupid @$$ decided to check out the thermostat 5 miles from home where the gasket was. Black RTV is the only thing I happened to have in the truck, so I used it without a gasket. Black RTV on one side of the housing, put it in place and fasten the bolts. 500 miles and 3 weeks later it's holding up good without any leaks. I think coolant is the *only* thing not leaking on this truck.

On that truck I would go white out. But that's just me.

Some people like them out, some people have a problem advertising the brand without getting paid for it... For me, I'd have to see a picture of the truck. On some it looks better out, on some in. On my Suburban and F100 (RIP) it was definitely in (although the Burb had them out when I got it). My MJ I think will have to be out. Problem is the tires I'm planning to get don't have white lettering. They are whitewall :oops: Definitely in!

I'm tentatively thinking of going so I can meet some of you in person. I just know people by their avatars right now... Of course that does depend on getting my death wobble fixed, and getting my rear brakes working. Can't wait for that white stuff to melt so I can actually work on it at my house. Or should I not even bother with a stock 4.0 on 235/75 15 Wintermark snow tires? (cheaper than M/T and better traction, at least on my old F100 I used to have).

I picked this up for $400 not quite a month ago, piece of cardboard protecting the radiator, zip ties holding the lights on: Last week I put on a new front, it's amazing how much better you can see at night when the headlights are aimed correctly and stay in place: Today I installed the new (to me)fender and bumper from Daveys Jeeps, parts now add up to $160 for a total of $560: So I now have a Comanche Pioneer that says Cherokee Sport on the one side... Done with the body work for now. The passenger side fender is messed up as well, but not badly enough to worry about for a while. Next up I need to get the engine running right/do a tune up, as well as fix a leak in or at the gas tank. It misses hard once in a while and only gets about 13 mpg around town, 16 highway. Also new tires now that the drivers side fender is not cutting anymore. I'll spend the summer trying to figure out why I have no rear brakes, and hopefully giving it a new coat of paint so it all matches again.

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Just got back from picking up the bumper as well as a new driver's side fender at Daveys Jeeps. The bumper came off a Cherokee Limited, not a Comanche. He showed me how all Cherokee Limiteds have color matched bumpers, as far back as 1992. And he's got a bunch of them. It is the same bumper as the black one, just in a different color. The fog lights (or what's left of them) and the bumper guards are still black. The fender I took off a 96 Cherokee Sport. Same color that my truck used to be (before clear coat disappeared), but I'll have to remove the Cherokee emblem and Sport sticker and replace them with the Comanche and Pioneer emblems. The vacuum reservoir is also twice as big in the new bumper, and has only one hookup, instead of two on my old one. Will be installing them tomorrow, and post more pictures.

No, it's the front. I'm going there to pick it up Saturday morning. Also getting a fender for $35, but gotta take it off myself, and a D/S mirror for my coworker's Grand Cherokee for $25. I could possibly get the parts cheaper elsewhere, but shipping or gas would kill me. This place is Jeeps only and only 1 hour drive from here (it's in Salem, OH).