mvusse

Looks good. How did you solve the space between the cab and the bar?

Usually when a fusible link blows, it burns the insulation off as well, and all you have left are two halves not connected any more. I had a short in the tail light wiring on my F100 once (don't ask me how, too embarrassing), and it made the headlight switch whine when I turned the lights on. Only I had lights for a few seconds until the breaker tripped, and the buzzing disappeared, and like a minute later the breaker would reset and the whine would be back, along with the lights, for a few seconds anyway. Still do not know why the headlight switch would whine, as it is a DC system, and no electronics besides the radio (1974 engine). I would turn on the ignition (but not start the truck), turn on the lights, and see if you can locate the actual source of the whine. Wiring diagrams are useful, but if there's a noise to track down, that is usually a much faster way to find the problem.

Gas tank is all ready to go in. Just got to wait for the rain to stop and the driveway to dry up. This is what I started with: This is what it looked like after I got done with a wire brush mounted on my angle grinder: And after treating the rust that wouldn't come off: Today it's been raining, but expecting it I moved the tank inside last night. This afternoon I continued in my basement. Have half the tank covered in primer: And it's finally ready to go in: I also picked up two new bushings for the other lca today, which I will press in tomorrow, as well as a valve cover gasket. When it quits raining and the driveway dries out the gas tank is going in. I should also be able to find time to clean the valve cover this week; hopefully that will fix my oil leak. I may even be able to replace the ps lca, and get the ps fender installed.

Sorry, but no link. It's been well over a year since I was looking at beadlocks for the Suburban. I got bored on a rainy day and spent like 10 hours browsing the web that day.

Down south it may make sense, but trust me, there are no deserts in or near Ohio.

Now that looks much better.

Sounds like a great project. Looking forward to following your build.

I do believe the OP states he's swapping the entire dash. I don't know how much of an undertaking that would be. How much work is it to make a 97+ dash fit?

Be aware that a lot of beadlock rims and as far as I know all DIY beadlock kits are NOT DOT approved. If you drive your rig on public roads, you may want to make sure the ones you are getting are legal for road use. Also, one thing I did not see on the site is a sleeve that goes inside the tire between the inside and outside beads. With the sleeve, as you bolt on the outside ring, it pinches the tire between the ring and the sleeve, and at the same time pushes the sleeve in, pinching the inside bead between the sleeve and the welded ring. Without the sleeve, I see no way of a beadlock being very beneficial. And I know of no kits that offer a sleeve without having to cut the outside lip off the original rim before installation. I do not have beadlock rims, but have researched them in the past. All I'm saying is do your research/home work before you buy.

Do you need PCI modems, or do you have some ISA slots available as well? I have about 50 or 60 modems laying around, all ISA. Most are 2400, but I'm sure if I sort through them I have a few 14400 and 28800s around. May have one or two 33600s, but not sure about that. Just need to find the box in the basement. Mostly leftovers from a multi line BBS I used to run in college.

Why is he yelling? Sounds like a used car salesman... He said he had the custome tonneau cover made a few months ago. If he's flipping it for a "small" margin, he would not have had it for months without fixing the clearcoat spot or the dent in the tailgate. Therefore he drove it for while, found out he paid too much for it, and decided to sell it to recover his money before putting too much wear on the truck. I wouldn't be surprised if this truck saw salt for the first time this winter, and will probably show rust before summer is over. My guess is the auction will end without a single bid, and we will see it again in 2 months or so.

Is your new truck 2wd or 4wd? The roll bar hints at 4wd, but then again, a local guy has a 2wd Ford Ranger lifted 6" with 33s. :nuts:

I'm not so sure about that. If there is a dead short from the battery post to the hood, no current will be flowing through the battery cable, and the fusible links should be fine.

I just don't see it. That has got to be the ugliest bumper Jeep has ever dreamed up.

In the process of wire brushing the rust off the new gas tank, I found out it was made in Canada, but Spectra Premium. Those letters appeared out of nowehere, but are quite clearly readable now. I should have it finished tomorrow, and will post pictures before and after. Then coat it with Ospho (tomorrow?), rustoleum primer(Sunday) and rustoleum paint(Monday?). So ii doesn't rain for the next few days, the new tank could go on as early as Tuesday. After that I'll clean up the swiss cheese that's attempting to hold the fuel now, to see if it is salvageable for a spare. Some time this weekend I may also replace the bushing in the other LCA and possibly replace the ps fender.

Today $1 US is actually right about $1 CDN. A few weeks back the Canadian dollar was actually about $1.05 US. Historically it's been between $0.65 and $0.80 US... Not that the Canadian dollar is that strong, just that the US dollar has devalued that much due to all the money we're wasting in the middle east. In the meanwhile our economy is going to $#!&, but I'm starting to rant again. Better go find something to break to calm down....

That's the fun part. Work on only one side at a time. That way you have the other side to look at as a reference.

Well, I guess you're no smarter than the rest of us, then. :D The instructions are always a last resort. REAL men shouldn't need them... Which is why I usually break stuff the first time taking something off. :cry:

Wish he'd kept the signature MJ side cab vents.

Valve cover oil leak is quite common, and often caused by a plugged CCV orifice. This will also cause the vent tube to puke oil onto the air filter. Most common cause of overheating is low coolant (but you said overflow was full) followed by a plugged up radiator. Other causes can be fans, water pump, thermostat, air in the system etc.

Somewhere (this site?) I saw some shots of s preliminary prototype a while ago. I thought it looked ugly then. Either they changed it, or it grew on me. Supposed to get excellent mileage for a truck. But for what diesel costs nowadays I'd be making my own from french fry oil.

Hope you bought some vaseline for when you have to buy gas. I'm guessing about 5 fill ups? Good luck on your trip.

:agree: I wish more gas stations would offer that.

For some reason after market suppliers think Comanche and Cherokee sending units are the same. :nuts:

If it didn't occur with the larger tires, I'd have the smaller ones rebalanced. If they are not the same rims, check to make sure they have no dents. Or put your rear tires on the front see if the problem persists. It may just be the different weight (and inertia) of the smaller tires creates just the right harmonic frequency with your suspension and steering system to start oscillating. The smaller tires may or may not save you gas.They are narrower, so less roling resistance, and smaller diameter, so you're lower to the ground, but they also turn faster covering the same distance, making the engine rev faster for the same speed. When you switch tire sizes, do not go by the odometer for distance or speedometer for speed. Use a GPS instead, or a trip of a known length. If you're speedometer/odometer assembly is correct for the one tire size, it will be off for the other size. You may think you saved gas because you're odometer says you drove 120 miles while in fact you may have only driven 114. The two tire sizes are almost exactly 5% off from each other.