mvusse

The last 3 motorcycle batteries I have bought (for a 100cc Italian made Harley Davidson dirt bike), have been lead-acid batteries. When you open the box, it contains an empty battery and a bottle of acid to fill it yourself.

If the flames are coming out the throttle body, it is most certainly a timing issue.

I have heard people refer to compressed air as nitrogen, and air is in fact almost 80% nitrogen gas. A nitrogen molecule (N2), however, is *smaller* than a CO2 molecule, meaning nitrogen and air (about 20% O2, 80% N2) will leak out faster than pure CO2. With tires, though, I don't really think it makes much difference because of the thickness of the rubber, but with balloons it will be noticeable.

I just installed those same hooks on the front of mine. The brackets are pretty beefy, and the hooks themselves are rated at 10,000 pounds. Installation uses stock holes, so there's no drilling required.As for the rear, my bumper also says 2,000 pound max trailer weight, but if the bumper has been rusted out inside, I would halve that. A good class III receiver would be much better, and could also be used as a rear recovery point with a D-shackle insert. Again, I installed one myself for that purpose, as well as to be able to use my bicycle rack on the truck, and to tow my trailer. The only bad thing is that it lowers your rear ground clearance about 3", affecting the departure angle off road.

The only oil pan I've ever seen that looked remotely like that (hole was not quite as jagged) was a 81 K20 throwing a rod after doing ~100 to 110MPH continuously for 4 hours. With 4.10 gears and 29" tires, I was surprised the engine lasted that long at the rpms it was running. The owner was not very happy about that one...

If that was directed towards me, thanks, I'd appreciate it. :cheers: Well, I just mounted my radio. Turns out the IF amplifier is shot in my good one due to a bad antenna. Brand new still in box never used radio $#!& radio had a blown capacitor, so my trusty old Uniden is the only working radio I have. I can probably fix the Radio Shack one myself, but doubt I'll have time before the trip. This means I do not have a spare radio anymore. Sorry about that.

Well, we were talking about headlight guards, but then you brought up tube doors. :D

Fuel pump has been replaced and it runs like a top again. Halfway through installing front tow hooks. I'm still on schedule to make it. Chico, what changed your mind? Same problems still?

I don't know if tube doors are legal in OH or not, but I know it is perfectly fine to run without any doors at all.

Hmmm, I used to use SQL databases. Have used both PostGreSQL and MySQL, but not recently. Have not used MS products since working with Macs in college, but that was nearly 20 years ago.

I would take option 2, but include the check for $35 to get it over with. Parking tickets are not a driving offense. You will not lose points on your license, and your insurance will not be affected. Any other course of action will cost you more, both in time and in gas.

What worries me about that is IF it happens, how badly are they going to mess it up? They'd mess up the body lines, get rid of the vent behind the doors, probably make it a 4 door and it will be IFS with front wheel drive. Trust me, we don't want to Comanche to make a "come back".

They keep saying it's a supply and demand thing. Well, even though demand is up, the supply is there. I have not seen any shortages, have you? It is corporate greediness, plain and simple. And if this keeps going they are going to be the cause of the entire economy crashing. If you think things are bad now, just wait a few years when gas hits $10 per gallon... We'll be paying $4 for a loaf of bread just to cover the fuel for the truck delivering it to the store.

Got the new pump in, and it runs great again. And it's quiet! Old pump could be heard from 20 feet away... I did have to modify the top bracket a bit, however. The bracket has a half moon cut out to fit around three posts on top of the pump. New pump has 4 posts, so a bit of work with the aviation snips was needed to make the bracket work. Death wobble also came back. Inspected everything and found the cotter pin on the track bar castle nut missing :eek: Tightened the nut about a half a turn and death wobble is gone again. Will have to go to the hardware store tomorrow to get a new cotter pin. Front tow hooks should arrive tomorrow (according to UPS web site). Weather permitting I hope to get them installed tomorrow. Plans also include ripping out headliner, installing CB, replacing pass. fender. If not tomorrow, at least this weekend. Some time next week I plan to remove what's left of the old seat mounting bolts on the floor so I can actually bolt my seat down. But at least now that it has brackets, as opposed to pieces of brackets, it doesn't try to dump me out of the seat every time I turn right... I may get this sucker ready in time for the Badlands trip yet. Too bad the rear end is sagging 2 or 3 inches. Really going to hurt my departure angle. New leaf packs will have to wait till later, though. Haven't decided if I'm staying with stock leafs (planning SOA next year), or 2" or 3" lift leafs (SOA will be REALLY high then.)

Rural Ohio had been $3.99 since last Friday. Found $3.79 closer to the PA border and locked up the brakes to be able to pull in. Around here is slowly dropped to $3.89 over the past few days, but went back up to $3.99 today. That's 87 octane. I believe diesel is $4.79, but don't really pay attention to that.

Jeepco, do you realize he's in Norway?

In Ohio you can change a title from salvage to salvage-rebuilt by visiting the state highway patrol (or maybe it was the sherrif's department, can't remember for sure). You pay them $75, they inspect the vehicle and you're done. But like you said, each state is different. Check with your local DMV or license office.

Yeah, but Motion wants to make lwb ones. They just can't find a lwd Comanche to borrow. Too bad I live too far away...

Sometimes much easier said than done. In my experience, the words "just remove" and "torx" should never be in the same sentence. Lifetime warrantee Torx socket set, 1/2 to 3/8 reducer, breaker bar and extension pipe. Once in a while you snap the Torx head socket, but usually the bolts come out no matter how badly rusted. You could also use your favorite penetrating lube, hammer and/or propane torch to help it break loose. I have also found a front end collision to be quite successful at knocking rusted bolts loose. Has worked on 3 vehicles of mine so far (one was my fault, that one was totaled with severe frame damage).

You're looking for 3/16" While you're there, you should also buy a double flaring tool and some extra end fittings, along with a few couplers for joining lengths of hard line together. Once brake lines start popping, they are all suspect. I can't tell you how many times I've replaced a section of line, only to have a nearby section pop a leak when I try to bleed after the repair. Just bite the bullet and replace everything, then you won't have to worry about it. The pre-fab lengths won't be perfect to get you from point 'A' to point 'B' and that's why you'll need the flaring tool. Oh, yeah, and a small tubing cutter, too. Don't cut brake line with a hacksaw -- the cut has to be pretty straight and clean or you can't get a good double flare on it. Tell me about it. I knew better, but $$$ was limited, so I decided to just replace the leaking section and decided to do the rest at some point in the near future. So I get the leaking section replaced, to find the next section leaking. Replace it only to blow the next one during bleeding, and the next one. When I was done I'd spent $20 in gas running to the parts store 6 times total, and had a brand new line from the front distribution block to both rear wheels.

That's a vacuum reservoir. It will help hold engine vacuum for operating among other things your heater controls and (if so equipped) cruise control.

NAPA, Advance Autoparts, Autozone, Checker, .... Any auto pats store should have them. You will have to bend them into the correct shape yourself, though,

PartsAmerica is more than just Advance Auto Parts. It is also Checker, Kragen, Schucks and Murray's. Anyway, just post the pics here, as I'm emailing them. That way we can also refer to this thread next time someone thinks they found the elusive MJ sending unit. I'm hoping they are sincere in their promise.

My Suburban has leaf springs on the rear and a factory rear sway bar. Also has a front one with a torsion bar suspension. With a vehicle that height and weight, though, you want to limit body roll as much as possible on the road. Unless you drive with a few 1000 pounds in the bed, or build a street racer, I don't see the point of putting one on a Comanche.

I finally got someone at the PartsAmerica group to believe that XJ and MJ sending units are different and not interchangeable. However, before they change their computer systems they want to see evidence. Does anyone have pictures of the two that clearly show the one is mirror image of the other one?